PBregovich
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Blind Buys
Anyone who has been involved with Parfumo for a while knows that the community experience often follows a similar path. Sometimes you buy way too many samples, then you discover sharing options and swaps, and before you know it, your cabinet is way too full. I speak from experience (as a quick glance at my folder "Samples" reveals).
Another temptation that is very easy to fall into once you really dive into the subject is blind buys. Those damn blind buys. I confess, I have made quite a few myself. "Aqva Amara (Eau de Toilette)", "CH Men Grand Tour", and several others. Especially at the beginning, I regretted these purchases, as I wasn't very knowledgeable and the fragrance pyramids didn't mean much to me. However, I did get lucky with many of them.
One such fragrance is Luna Rossa Extreme. I had already done a bit of reading on fragrance pyramids and was confident that the scent would align with my preferences. Added to that was the pressure of the production being discontinued, and before I knew it, I had it in my hands.
With the first spray came the first big disappointment. This can't be it, I thought to myself. A huge blast of pepper, followed by a lavender-citrus mix that smelled somehow uncoordinated and, quite frankly, uninteresting. Not long before, I had purchased "Le Mâle Terrible" from Jean Paul Gaultier and noticed quite strong parallels between the two fragrances. I was a bit disappointed and regretted the blind buy.
I then set the bottle aside and focused on my daily tasks. Over time, I realized that the scent was becoming more pleasant. The pepper gave way to vanilla, and a certain velvety background emerged. More and more, I liked it, and it began to differentiate itself from "Le Mâle Terrible". The fragrance becomes sweeter and warmer as it develops, until it fades into complete vanilla.
That was also the moment I learned to give fragrances a bit more time. Especially in the designer segment, the top note is often very short and quickly gives way to the subsequent scent development, which is either linear or only features a few notes in the drydown. In this fragrance, the transformation takes a bit longer and is truly noticeable.
The scent is neither too strong nor too weak. I particularly enjoy wearing it on warm (not hot) evenings in summer, late spring, and early autumn. What I find especially interesting about Luna Rossa Extreme is the contrast between the harsh and cool opening and the later inviting, warm scent progression.
For a fragrance from Prada, it is really very interesting and could easily pass as a niche fragrance under a different name. Hence my disappointment that the fragrance has been taken off the market. My assumption is that the fragrance struggled to sell well due to the top note. Many potential buyers base their purchases on top note tests, often still from the paper strip, and Luna Rossa Extreme definitely doesn't impress in that regard. This likely contributed to weaker sales figures.
Unfortunately, there are no alternatives to this fragrance. "Le Mâle Terrible" goes in a similar direction but lacks the depth in the drydown; "Luna Rossa Black" has a similar DNA but is completely different.
At the end of the day, I do not regret this blind buy, but I have definitely become a bit more cautious. Congratulations to those who were able to snag the fragrance. One of the many discontinued gems from the designer segment.
Another temptation that is very easy to fall into once you really dive into the subject is blind buys. Those damn blind buys. I confess, I have made quite a few myself. "Aqva Amara (Eau de Toilette)", "CH Men Grand Tour", and several others. Especially at the beginning, I regretted these purchases, as I wasn't very knowledgeable and the fragrance pyramids didn't mean much to me. However, I did get lucky with many of them.
One such fragrance is Luna Rossa Extreme. I had already done a bit of reading on fragrance pyramids and was confident that the scent would align with my preferences. Added to that was the pressure of the production being discontinued, and before I knew it, I had it in my hands.
With the first spray came the first big disappointment. This can't be it, I thought to myself. A huge blast of pepper, followed by a lavender-citrus mix that smelled somehow uncoordinated and, quite frankly, uninteresting. Not long before, I had purchased "Le Mâle Terrible" from Jean Paul Gaultier and noticed quite strong parallels between the two fragrances. I was a bit disappointed and regretted the blind buy.
I then set the bottle aside and focused on my daily tasks. Over time, I realized that the scent was becoming more pleasant. The pepper gave way to vanilla, and a certain velvety background emerged. More and more, I liked it, and it began to differentiate itself from "Le Mâle Terrible". The fragrance becomes sweeter and warmer as it develops, until it fades into complete vanilla.
That was also the moment I learned to give fragrances a bit more time. Especially in the designer segment, the top note is often very short and quickly gives way to the subsequent scent development, which is either linear or only features a few notes in the drydown. In this fragrance, the transformation takes a bit longer and is truly noticeable.
The scent is neither too strong nor too weak. I particularly enjoy wearing it on warm (not hot) evenings in summer, late spring, and early autumn. What I find especially interesting about Luna Rossa Extreme is the contrast between the harsh and cool opening and the later inviting, warm scent progression.
For a fragrance from Prada, it is really very interesting and could easily pass as a niche fragrance under a different name. Hence my disappointment that the fragrance has been taken off the market. My assumption is that the fragrance struggled to sell well due to the top note. Many potential buyers base their purchases on top note tests, often still from the paper strip, and Luna Rossa Extreme definitely doesn't impress in that regard. This likely contributed to weaker sales figures.
Unfortunately, there are no alternatives to this fragrance. "Le Mâle Terrible" goes in a similar direction but lacks the depth in the drydown; "Luna Rossa Black" has a similar DNA but is completely different.
At the end of the day, I do not regret this blind buy, but I have definitely become a bit more cautious. Congratulations to those who were able to snag the fragrance. One of the many discontinued gems from the designer segment.
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Easter Celebration in Quarantine
In these days of self-isolation, I spend a lot of time on things I usually wouldn't have time for due to my work or social life. Among other things, writing statements and comments.
I initially wanted to write just a small statement about this fragrance, but it has sparked my thoughts and awakened memories.
The most important thing upfront: the scent smells of dry incense, slightly smoky, and becomes more leathery in the drydown. Longevity is very good for me, sillage is medium to good.
As some of you may know, I am half Macedonian. My mother's family lives in the capital, Skopje, and I usually spend the Easter holidays there every year. Although Easter often does not fall on the same day, it is the best time for me to visit my family there. My mother always comes as well, since she has her birthday in April and was previously tied to my brother's school holidays. In summer, it is too hot for her there, and in winter, my parents spend time with my father's family.
For me, during my studies, Easter was also the best time for Skopje. In summer, I always have to go to the sea; otherwise, I go crazy. In winter, I often visit my paternal family as well.
My family in Skopje is large, hospitable, and fun-loving. Whenever I visit them, they try to pamper us as much as possible, even though they actually have limited means. Anyone with family from the Balkans knows exactly how it is: Grandma cooks way too much, you eat as much as you can because the food is very good, but in the end, she always accuses you of not eating enough. She takes it so personally. "You didn't like my food; why else wouldn't you eat more!" But enough about that.
Whatever is on the agenda, as long as we have the opportunity to catch the Orthodox Easter celebration, is a visit to my favorite church. Next to Skopje, there is a mountain called Vodno. If you drive up from the city, you can eventually turn off quite high up and find a small church that is rather off the beaten path. We tend to avoid the large city church because it is far too crowded during Easter. The Easter mass takes place at midnight and lasts quite a long time. This fragrance embodies that mass for me. The dry incense that almost suffocates the room, far too little oxygen because hundreds of candles are lit. The mass lasts for hours; older women faint and are taken outside the church to get some air before re-entering the mass. It's all a bit crazy, but still tradition, and I wouldn't want it any other way.
The incense in this fragrance is very authentic. It reminds me one-to-one of the church incense in Orthodox churches, especially during the Easter mass. The slight smokiness fits perfectly as well. I know that for many people this is an off-putting smell, but for me, it is a memory.
It weighs heavily on me that I cannot be with my family this year. The fragrance brings me a little closer to them. And yet, an Easter celebration with just two people is very sad for me, as I am used to large celebrations with the whole family.
I know that in this comment, I have described the fragrance 10% and let my heart run free 90%, but you will forgive me for that.
I wish you all good health and all the best in these strange times. If you are of the Christian faith, I also wish you a lovely Easter celebration!
I initially wanted to write just a small statement about this fragrance, but it has sparked my thoughts and awakened memories.
The most important thing upfront: the scent smells of dry incense, slightly smoky, and becomes more leathery in the drydown. Longevity is very good for me, sillage is medium to good.
As some of you may know, I am half Macedonian. My mother's family lives in the capital, Skopje, and I usually spend the Easter holidays there every year. Although Easter often does not fall on the same day, it is the best time for me to visit my family there. My mother always comes as well, since she has her birthday in April and was previously tied to my brother's school holidays. In summer, it is too hot for her there, and in winter, my parents spend time with my father's family.
For me, during my studies, Easter was also the best time for Skopje. In summer, I always have to go to the sea; otherwise, I go crazy. In winter, I often visit my paternal family as well.
My family in Skopje is large, hospitable, and fun-loving. Whenever I visit them, they try to pamper us as much as possible, even though they actually have limited means. Anyone with family from the Balkans knows exactly how it is: Grandma cooks way too much, you eat as much as you can because the food is very good, but in the end, she always accuses you of not eating enough. She takes it so personally. "You didn't like my food; why else wouldn't you eat more!" But enough about that.
Whatever is on the agenda, as long as we have the opportunity to catch the Orthodox Easter celebration, is a visit to my favorite church. Next to Skopje, there is a mountain called Vodno. If you drive up from the city, you can eventually turn off quite high up and find a small church that is rather off the beaten path. We tend to avoid the large city church because it is far too crowded during Easter. The Easter mass takes place at midnight and lasts quite a long time. This fragrance embodies that mass for me. The dry incense that almost suffocates the room, far too little oxygen because hundreds of candles are lit. The mass lasts for hours; older women faint and are taken outside the church to get some air before re-entering the mass. It's all a bit crazy, but still tradition, and I wouldn't want it any other way.
The incense in this fragrance is very authentic. It reminds me one-to-one of the church incense in Orthodox churches, especially during the Easter mass. The slight smokiness fits perfectly as well. I know that for many people this is an off-putting smell, but for me, it is a memory.
It weighs heavily on me that I cannot be with my family this year. The fragrance brings me a little closer to them. And yet, an Easter celebration with just two people is very sad for me, as I am used to large celebrations with the whole family.
I know that in this comment, I have described the fragrance 10% and let my heart run free 90%, but you will forgive me for that.
I wish you all good health and all the best in these strange times. If you are of the Christian faith, I also wish you a lovely Easter celebration!
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L'Homme Oubliable
In 2006, the original L'Homme by Yves Saint Laurent was launched and is certainly one of the bestsellers from the brand, alongside La Nuit de l'Homme. Whether it has been reformulated or not, I cannot determine, but a very good friend of mine has been wearing it for years, and I can always recognize the scent. It is understated, yet very pleasant and still has a distinctive character.
Over the years, YSL has excelled in an almost absurd extent of flankers for both of the aforementioned fragrances. They have really gone overboard with this. So after the Le Parfum for La Nuit de l'Homme, there is now also a Le Parfum for the classic L'Homme.
Around 2010, I had La Nuit EdT and EdP in my collection and must say that at that time, they were the best and most complex fragrances in my collection. Of course, I was just starting out, only had Boss Bottled Night and a few cheapies in my collection, but these two fragrances were heavenly for me. YSL was the pinnacle for me.
In the meantime, I must regretfully note that YSL no longer matches my taste. Perhaps it is because I am gradually outgrowing their target audience, but it still disappoints me. Just like this flanker here, which further underscores my claim.
The first spray of this flanker starts with what is referred to as ozone, which for me simply embodies the classic freshness of an aquatic. However, L'Homme Le Parfum is definitely not an aquatic. It leans more towards fragrances like Y from the same house or Acqua di Giò Absolu by Armani and is thus one of the many developments of the infamous Invictus by Paco Rabanne. I am aware that this fragrance DNA is currently quite popular, but it does not suit my taste. The top note is overall a bit overwhelming. Upon first sniff, I even got a slight headache. It starts off very fresh and yet has an overwhelming sweetness. I can detect cardamom (here in a rather sweet form), but the lemon disappears in the blink of an eye.
This sweet-fresh mix quickly drifts into geranium, which more or less constitutes the centerpiece of this fragrance. The geranium here has no spiciness that can sometimes be detected, but rather leans towards the rosy direction. This blends with the sweet-fresh scent mix that continues to persist and gives it an additional floral character. The sillage is already somewhat fading here.
Towards the end, everything becomes quite unremarkable, as the fragrance becomes a bit woodier and thus fades into a woody-fresh mix with a hint of sweetness. The longevity is quite okay, but I find the sillage really very weak.
The fragrance is probably a crowd-pleaser, but I see it more suited for leisure time in a sunny park (I need to get out of this house) rather than at work. I rate the recognizability on a scale from 0 to 10 as 0, as I couldn't distinguish it from other freshies, like the ones I mentioned above. I find this particularly disappointing, as back around 2010, the La Nuit fragrances were especially marked by their recognizability. The regular L'Homme that my buddy wears, by the way, is too.
This is probably the perfect gift for your young nephew, whose interests and preferences you know nothing about and who will surely appreciate it. For the perfume enthusiasts who have already experienced several fragrances, this scent will either be a disappointment or simply forgotten.
To put it in the words of the poetess Ariana Grande: Thank U, Next.
Over the years, YSL has excelled in an almost absurd extent of flankers for both of the aforementioned fragrances. They have really gone overboard with this. So after the Le Parfum for La Nuit de l'Homme, there is now also a Le Parfum for the classic L'Homme.
Around 2010, I had La Nuit EdT and EdP in my collection and must say that at that time, they were the best and most complex fragrances in my collection. Of course, I was just starting out, only had Boss Bottled Night and a few cheapies in my collection, but these two fragrances were heavenly for me. YSL was the pinnacle for me.
In the meantime, I must regretfully note that YSL no longer matches my taste. Perhaps it is because I am gradually outgrowing their target audience, but it still disappoints me. Just like this flanker here, which further underscores my claim.
The first spray of this flanker starts with what is referred to as ozone, which for me simply embodies the classic freshness of an aquatic. However, L'Homme Le Parfum is definitely not an aquatic. It leans more towards fragrances like Y from the same house or Acqua di Giò Absolu by Armani and is thus one of the many developments of the infamous Invictus by Paco Rabanne. I am aware that this fragrance DNA is currently quite popular, but it does not suit my taste. The top note is overall a bit overwhelming. Upon first sniff, I even got a slight headache. It starts off very fresh and yet has an overwhelming sweetness. I can detect cardamom (here in a rather sweet form), but the lemon disappears in the blink of an eye.
This sweet-fresh mix quickly drifts into geranium, which more or less constitutes the centerpiece of this fragrance. The geranium here has no spiciness that can sometimes be detected, but rather leans towards the rosy direction. This blends with the sweet-fresh scent mix that continues to persist and gives it an additional floral character. The sillage is already somewhat fading here.
Towards the end, everything becomes quite unremarkable, as the fragrance becomes a bit woodier and thus fades into a woody-fresh mix with a hint of sweetness. The longevity is quite okay, but I find the sillage really very weak.
The fragrance is probably a crowd-pleaser, but I see it more suited for leisure time in a sunny park (I need to get out of this house) rather than at work. I rate the recognizability on a scale from 0 to 10 as 0, as I couldn't distinguish it from other freshies, like the ones I mentioned above. I find this particularly disappointing, as back around 2010, the La Nuit fragrances were especially marked by their recognizability. The regular L'Homme that my buddy wears, by the way, is too.
This is probably the perfect gift for your young nephew, whose interests and preferences you know nothing about and who will surely appreciate it. For the perfume enthusiasts who have already experienced several fragrances, this scent will either be a disappointment or simply forgotten.
To put it in the words of the poetess Ariana Grande: Thank U, Next.
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Caspar David Friedrich
The first spray. A wave crashing into my face wakes me from my morning trance, which usually smells more like coffee. Phew, salt, a lot of salt. I am definitely awake now.
After the initial shock, I gradually get used to the scent. The name fits perfectly, as the albatross is a seabird that either flies through the stormy winds of the sea or lets itself be rocked by the waves. The diet of this bird mainly consists of sea creatures, including squids, sardines, jellyfish, and other slippery sea dwellers.
So the fragrance fits excellently. One has the feeling of standing on a cliff above the sea, scanning for prey. The scent is not loud; after all, a true hunter is not either. The fragrance is very calm, it does not really bring out any of the individual notes. Instead, it emphasizes what is described here as a 'marine accord.' Like in a painting by Caspar David Friedrich, the albatross stands on this rock, looking towards the sea. It has become one with it and now meditates, part storm, part sea, and part... bird. Yes, the scent also has something dirty about it. This dirtiness, probably more the 'driftwood' than the bird's droppings, intensifies over the course of the fragrance and quickly replaces the salty start. Additionally, it has a very mineral scent overall, similar to Tom Ford's "Oud Minérale." I can find many parallels between the two fragrances.
Overall, the fragrance is very artistic. I'm not saying I would never wear it, but there aren't many occasions that come to mind right away. I'm not against the scent direction, as I really enjoyed wearing the aforementioned "Oud Minérale" last summer. However, this fragrance also has somewhat weak performance. Quickly, the roaring wave that knocked the coffee cup out of my hand turns into a fading sound of waves, as if I were walking straight ahead with my back to the sea, trying to leave those memories behind.
An interesting fragrance, a work of art, yes, but after this test, I will also seek out other shores.
After the initial shock, I gradually get used to the scent. The name fits perfectly, as the albatross is a seabird that either flies through the stormy winds of the sea or lets itself be rocked by the waves. The diet of this bird mainly consists of sea creatures, including squids, sardines, jellyfish, and other slippery sea dwellers.
So the fragrance fits excellently. One has the feeling of standing on a cliff above the sea, scanning for prey. The scent is not loud; after all, a true hunter is not either. The fragrance is very calm, it does not really bring out any of the individual notes. Instead, it emphasizes what is described here as a 'marine accord.' Like in a painting by Caspar David Friedrich, the albatross stands on this rock, looking towards the sea. It has become one with it and now meditates, part storm, part sea, and part... bird. Yes, the scent also has something dirty about it. This dirtiness, probably more the 'driftwood' than the bird's droppings, intensifies over the course of the fragrance and quickly replaces the salty start. Additionally, it has a very mineral scent overall, similar to Tom Ford's "Oud Minérale." I can find many parallels between the two fragrances.
Overall, the fragrance is very artistic. I'm not saying I would never wear it, but there aren't many occasions that come to mind right away. I'm not against the scent direction, as I really enjoyed wearing the aforementioned "Oud Minérale" last summer. However, this fragrance also has somewhat weak performance. Quickly, the roaring wave that knocked the coffee cup out of my hand turns into a fading sound of waves, as if I were walking straight ahead with my back to the sea, trying to leave those memories behind.
An interesting fragrance, a work of art, yes, but after this test, I will also seek out other shores.
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Conclusion
For a very long time, I have had a decant of this fragrance in my collection. Since the first application, I found this scent extraordinary. It smells unlike anything else to me. Until that point, I had never smelled anything like it.
I admit that I have tested more niche fragrances since then and have also smelled some more demanding creations. However, the fact that a fragrance is exceptionally wearable and mass-appealing does not mean it is not extraordinary.
The scent itself is not very easy to describe. Overall, I would say the fragrance type is mainly floral with a strongly perceivable oriental touch. What stands out to me in particular is the sandalwood, which gives the fragrance a slightly creamy quality. I also think I can perceive the "bitter orange leaf." I don't know how these leaves are supposed to smell or if they have anything to do with orange blossom, but I sense certain parallels to the dominant note in Maison Francis Kurkdjian's APOM. I also perceive neroli, which adds a very light citrus twist to the fragrance. The iris plays more of a background role and underscores the creamy scent profile with a slight powderiness.
I can somewhat understand the comparisons to Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier. This is probably due to the sandalwood base combined with a certain sweetness. However, I can't say for sure, as my nose is not trained enough. What I can say is that these are not fragrance twins. They are also not siblings in any other sense. They are related, but somewhat distantly.
And yet, the fragrance is unique. It has an aura that I have never smelled before. It is elegant, it is calm, and very deep. It gives me confidence and makes an extremely clean impression. This fragrance is not for a Sunday on the couch in a hoodie. This is a scent for a pressed shirt, bright white like the smile when entering a room. The fragrance for a suit, for a tie, for outfits that are a little more special or formal than casual wear.
I last wore the fragrance for my graduation exam. I was extremely nervous because I had an endless amount of material to prepare, even though I had already written a thesis. I was totally insecure, not knowing how in-depth the examiners would probe. Furthermore, the exam was in two languages due to my subject combination, neither of which was my mother tongue - that made me even more anxious. However, Reflection Man acted as an anchor and gave me the confidence and security to pull it off. The success of my exam was certainly not only, and not mainly, due to the fragrance, but rather to my prior knowledge and preparation. Nevertheless, I am glad I chose this scent, as it psychologically gave me the strength for self-control and contributed to my overall calmness.
This is a unique fragrance that will definitely be joining my collection in the next few months. A masterpiece.
Thank you for reading and stay healthy,
yours, Mag. PBregovich
I admit that I have tested more niche fragrances since then and have also smelled some more demanding creations. However, the fact that a fragrance is exceptionally wearable and mass-appealing does not mean it is not extraordinary.
The scent itself is not very easy to describe. Overall, I would say the fragrance type is mainly floral with a strongly perceivable oriental touch. What stands out to me in particular is the sandalwood, which gives the fragrance a slightly creamy quality. I also think I can perceive the "bitter orange leaf." I don't know how these leaves are supposed to smell or if they have anything to do with orange blossom, but I sense certain parallels to the dominant note in Maison Francis Kurkdjian's APOM. I also perceive neroli, which adds a very light citrus twist to the fragrance. The iris plays more of a background role and underscores the creamy scent profile with a slight powderiness.
I can somewhat understand the comparisons to Le Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier. This is probably due to the sandalwood base combined with a certain sweetness. However, I can't say for sure, as my nose is not trained enough. What I can say is that these are not fragrance twins. They are also not siblings in any other sense. They are related, but somewhat distantly.
And yet, the fragrance is unique. It has an aura that I have never smelled before. It is elegant, it is calm, and very deep. It gives me confidence and makes an extremely clean impression. This fragrance is not for a Sunday on the couch in a hoodie. This is a scent for a pressed shirt, bright white like the smile when entering a room. The fragrance for a suit, for a tie, for outfits that are a little more special or formal than casual wear.
I last wore the fragrance for my graduation exam. I was extremely nervous because I had an endless amount of material to prepare, even though I had already written a thesis. I was totally insecure, not knowing how in-depth the examiners would probe. Furthermore, the exam was in two languages due to my subject combination, neither of which was my mother tongue - that made me even more anxious. However, Reflection Man acted as an anchor and gave me the confidence and security to pull it off. The success of my exam was certainly not only, and not mainly, due to the fragrance, but rather to my prior knowledge and preparation. Nevertheless, I am glad I chose this scent, as it psychologically gave me the strength for self-control and contributed to my overall calmness.
This is a unique fragrance that will definitely be joining my collection in the next few months. A masterpiece.
Thank you for reading and stay healthy,
yours, Mag. PBregovich
5 Comments
