PET

Genius and madness are often closely related. So it is with this fragrance! ... / the hand!!!! Ice-cold little hand ?/ the hand of!!! Horror!!! [Subtitle: dramatic music]

I have already made some disparaging remarks about the upper part of the bottle... Now I have such a "thing" at home. It’s no surprise that immediate punishment is necessary! The bottle has leaked a bit and the alcohol has eaten away at the "hand" the "Händ" a little
Since I also find this thing to be so... disgusting, it was bound to be bandaged anyway. But, oh no! Now it’s lying somewhere! Who knows what it’s plotting!

Okay, let’s leave that... Now to the genius and madness!.... Madness is part of it when you take such an outdated theme and sell it at such a price in such a bottle. The scent starts with a monster sillage, so cheeky that it nearly takes my breath away! An atomic moss, garden carnation, jasmine soap emerges here. I can’t help but think, "who even wants such a scent today?!" From the time when a massive soap like this was in vogue, there are probably still dozens of bottles, dusty, yellowed, forgotten.... and now comes the genius: The scent is so loud and cheeky... bubblegummy and fits so poorly into our time that it somehow seems modern again.
Generally, you need a bit of a masochistic tendency to wear it, but this long winter is driving me so crazy this year that I’m ready for any mischief.
The progression is quite linear, although the scent does soften a bit.

It seems to be going well for the tailor, because otherwise he couldn't afford such outliers!

So, now I have to check on the hand again, to see if it’s already running around the house and attacking my animals!?

Actually, I wanted to show off my cleverness, but I had to realize that I unfortunately cannot yet prove my thesis, in this case a "gut feeling"!


Who is already tired here? Scroll down to the description of the fragrance.


Back to the aforementioned thesis... I was actually 100% sure that the name "frankincense" is related to a clerical context and the context of "holy water." "Consecrated water"

While there is talk of a frankincense tree, this description is rather meager for a botanist... and does not explain or exclude that the term "frankincense" can be understood as a general term for a variety of incense.

So far, my research has "not" yielded more, but I will not let go of this.


Incense has been burned a lot, or rather, it was burned a lot. Even the Egyptians did it.... It is said to cleanse body and spirit.


Frankincense was among the gifts of kings and was weighed against gold.

But juniper, mugwort, opoponax, and elm resin were and are also used.


Often, reviews speak of "sacred" frankincense, usually with a controversial view on it. For many, it evokes unpleasant associations.

But who wants to smell like a "cardinal" anyway?

Perhaps it has to do with the overall impression that many take away from a house of worship.

Not a few are very dark, unwelcoming, and cold in design. There is no shortage of apocalypse and death, as the crucified one hangs in every corner. When frankincense is added to these impressions, no further words are needed....


But in darkness, there is also light!



I had already read quite a bit about Sorcinelli's fragrances and was surprised by the very modern-looking bottles. In my mind, I always pictured a gray-haired pope-tailor in a tweed three-piece suit measuring with a roll measure. My imagination soon dissolved into smoke when I stumbled upon Cookies, via Mr. Schneider's Instagram account. I was quite astonished when I found a somewhat cool version of Harald Glööckler, with clear allusions to GG eroticism.


After that, I was even more astonished, but actually not really, because this tailor fits this pope who would gladly turn the church upside down if he could.


I needed some time to approach the fragrance. It is not simple, as it opens explosively with "frankincense" and pepper, along with a very citrusy note. This immediately reminded me of Via dell'Incenso - also a very "sacred" frankincense.

Quickly, jasmine and tonka join in, and that makes the fragrance! Because the combination of the two, then in a triad with the frankincense, is not very complex but distinctive. I had associations of "new car leather." The sillage is moderate and the longevity rather short.

Although frankincense is not listed, opoponax and elmi resin are, and presumably, as I mentioned at the beginning, "frankincense" - consecrated smoke, sometimes also a mixture of resins and herbs.



Sorcinelli is an exciting perfumer for me! He himself seems very modern. His working environment is not. When he enters the buildings of the Vatican, he enters another world. Awe and silence.


Lift up your hearts!

Philtre was supposed to be the 40th fragrance in my collection, but my recent testing series of Les Indémodables turned everything upside down. It was more the quality of the ingredients than the composition of the creations that made me reflect. Reflect on some of my perfumes that are already in my collection. I had already had my eye on a few that didn’t quite convince me, and now I know why. One example is Histoires de parfums. One could say the scents are pleasing, but something is missing that I appreciate in other perfumes. "Accuracy" might be an appropriate word. Histoires has great French creations, but they don’t seem quite on point to me in terms of quality. They smell a bit "dull"... in a drink, one would use the word "flat." Perhaps it is in the nature of things to prioritize quantity over quality with bottles of 120ml produced in bulk. Another topic plays a significant role here. The role of the perfumer. A suspicion is becoming stronger! Big houses hire renowned perfumers, let them work their magic, and the path to a masterpiece is not far off. But...! The house reformulates the scent independently, of course to save costs, WITHOUT consulting the creator of the creations, and lo and behold! Countless fragrances are just a shadow of their former selves. I could list countless perfumes at this point, but I think you know enough already. But the point is: What does the perfumer say about their altered work!? And here we come to the fragrance we are discussing today. A perfumer who has everything in hand until the sale. Hiram Green, perhaps not a one-man operation, but the master decides until the end!

I read a lot about masterclass perfumes, and in most cases, it painfully adds that!... the scent is history!... but there is hope! Hope that passionate perfumers like Hiram Green can bring something that is entirely perfect and revive "old" formulations!

Here you can expect a stunning opening of jasmine, rose, Guerlain vanilla, cloves, and pepper. After a few minutes, the cloves push to the forefront, and this is where some might drop out. I’m all in, as the cloves are a bit over the top, and that gives the fragrance the necessary kick and avoids being too agreeable. The lady from whom I got the sample found it too animalic. What she probably meant was a warm indole well woven in, which in my opinion is anything but animalic. The sillage is a grenade, and the longevity is also quite impressive. Mr. Green describes his fragrances as intense, opulent, and expressive.
That is Philtre all right, and I congratulate him on this hit!

Home - a big word and each person associates something different with it. It can be the scent of a mother, a special dish from a grandmother, a particular event, a room, a landscape, a place, or an apartment. All of this also has a smell.

In this case, we are dealing with a fragrance dedicated to a tree species in the mountains of the Swiss Alps. Many also associate it with a sense of home. Especially in the post-war period, the Alps were a popular excursion and vacation destination for Germans. A perfect world that was then also reflected in households. Who doesn't know them!? The landscape paintings with mountains and lakes, with deer and farmers.
The felt hats with feathers and the loden coat of the grandparents. Shelves and living room cabinets were filled with wooden figures.
There were also countless films set in the idyllic mountain world.
That is all over now, and most of it ended up in the trash or was sold at flea markets.
It's a shame really! Because who still remembers? Frank Leder from Berlin has excellently processed this theme into clothing. His collections can be seen in great pictures on his website. There you can even find "red press meat" as soap in apothecary bottles.

Another hint is provided by the history of humanity. It wasn't long ago that we lived in forests, connected to nature and one with our surroundings - timeless.
Trees were an important part of our lives. We built houses with them, the wood kept the room warm, and on the stove, the food was cooked.
From this perspective, the smell of wood has something archetypal (for those interested in the topic, I recommend one of my favorite authors - Wolf Dieter Storl) but that's just a side note.

The theme of the past grabbed me again when I visited an exhibition by the artist Midori Mitamura many years ago.
She had the idea for an installation "Green of the Mountain" on the occasion of a find of old black-and-white pictures. It was essentially about the question of what remains of us when we leave this life. Does something happen in the present when someone looks at our pictures? The installation was accompanied by music that I will attach here at the end.
At that time, a certain melancholy overcame me, which was probably due to the peculiar Ave Maria.

But now I have drifted very far off track and will now come to the scent of the Swiss mountains.
It starts very citrusy, although not listed here... light resins and definitely benzoin give a sweet light wood scent. It definitely does not smell to me like what I imagine under the theme "forest." Anyone who visits the forest will agree with me - it rarely smells of freshly cut wood there. Rather, it smells of dry leaves, moss, and earth.

The scent reminds me in a way of "ARC | Mallo," which I find amusing since I just tested that.
One could say it is a "Light" version, as the sillage is quite restrained.

All in all, Arve is a nice if somewhat light fougère.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xDNJMlObD5A&pp=ygUdR3JlZW4gb2YgdGhlIE1vdW50YWluIG1pZG9yaSA%3D

In the light of Vedanta".

Whoever embarks on the side of Mallo sees a peak as a portrait of ARC. This little book came to my mind, as it interestingly connects European and Indian culture. It reflects the perspective of an Indian scholar on the Sermon on the Mount.
The creation of the fragrance also involved a fusion of two cultures. A is likely for Antonio and R consequently for Rajesh. The latter refers to ARC as his seventh perfume, bringing us back to the number of completion.
Rajesh must have had a significant influence on the composition and ingredients, as many come from his homeland "India."

Now to the perfume itself. The scent starts off with a bang! (40%) .... Brutal herbs! I can fully understand the association of my predecessors regarding sauna infusion.
Slowly, a sweetness emerges, lavender - jasmine - benzoin. The herbs reach deep within, and the scent remains powerful. Gradually, it becomes increasingly herbally sweet and fresh. In the drydown, it almost resembles a lemon spice cake, which is likely due to the intensifying cypriol.
At first, I was somewhat overwhelmed by the scent, but now I find it fantastic! Especially in the sense that it is a true fougère, and I usually don’t care much for the theme.

The scent feels very natural and is anything but ordinary.

What makes it so special is the fusion of the two perfumers. Rajesh, who consciously selected the ingredients from his homeland and set the theme, and Antonio, who skillfully balanced and intertwined them.

There is a lot of love behind this fragrance, and you can smell it.

"On a day during the harvest season, HE invited us and His
other friends to take a trip into the mountains. The earth was fragrant; it displayed all its jewels like a princess at her wedding. And
the sky was her groom.
When we reached a hilltop, HE stopped in a grove of laurel and said: Rest here,
relax your mind and open your hearts, for I
have much to say to you. We lay in the grass, surrounded by the summer flowers that grew there, and HE sat in our midst."

Khalil Gibran