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The musk ruins the entire fragrance
Initio has a few fragrances whose pyramids make me salivate in anticipation, and Addictive Vibration was certainly one of them. It could've been a major like, or even love, had it not been for... yes: that awful, awful musk!!
My skin has a tendency to pick up base notes quickly, in this case making the musk a part of the fragrance from the very first second. While I get to enjoy the lovely honey note in this frag - and I'm a huge honey lover (though I hate the sugar water concoctions that sell as honey in supermarkets. I always buy mine in specialised places. More expensive, but worth it) - the flower portion, that could be a wonderfully sweet & elegant scent experience, is ruined from the get go. As a result, the entire perfume becomes one I'll definitely never get a full bottle of (thank god I got a tiny decant!)
The musk in here isn't just dusty, but root cellar damp earthy. Like cheap patchouli, but with a slightly old flower stem-accord. You know, just before that slimy mold sets in.
I've had bad experiences with musk before. Usually when the blend isn't balanced and/or with cheapies. I don't expect a brand like Initio to use subpar products (though, then again, with said cheapies often outperforming designer and niche fragrances nowadays, who can say), but it is how this musk comes across.
On the one hand, Addictive Vibration is delicious. The part I had expected to like, is indeed great. I had not, however, counted on 'flower stem rot in the root cellar' to take my joy away.
Alas, that's what happened and it isn't until the very, very last moments of AV on my skin, its dying moments if you will, that the disgusting musk dissipates and you get what Initio should've created: a wonderful, elegant honey-lathered blossom-duo, with a vanilla base. Sadly, by that time the fragrance is in nose-to-skin territory and ready to vaporise entirely. I think I barely got 10min out of it.
Please, Initio, dump that atrocious Musk and add a creamy sandalwood base, or a warm golden amber, maybe some coumarin, or even a cashmere infused vanilla. All they'll do is give the warm hug this fragrance deserves and should've had from the very start.
Yes, it has a decent lasting power and average projection, which on my dry skin means it is good to great on others, but who wants to smell like almost rotten flowers, and damp earth mixed with honey? (I thought I was alone in this, based on the hallelujah reviews, but 'luckily' found others on the red site. If musk can be a difficult note for you, I think this is a no- go. But in all cases>>>)
Definitely do NOT blind buy!
My skin has a tendency to pick up base notes quickly, in this case making the musk a part of the fragrance from the very first second. While I get to enjoy the lovely honey note in this frag - and I'm a huge honey lover (though I hate the sugar water concoctions that sell as honey in supermarkets. I always buy mine in specialised places. More expensive, but worth it) - the flower portion, that could be a wonderfully sweet & elegant scent experience, is ruined from the get go. As a result, the entire perfume becomes one I'll definitely never get a full bottle of (thank god I got a tiny decant!)
The musk in here isn't just dusty, but root cellar damp earthy. Like cheap patchouli, but with a slightly old flower stem-accord. You know, just before that slimy mold sets in.
I've had bad experiences with musk before. Usually when the blend isn't balanced and/or with cheapies. I don't expect a brand like Initio to use subpar products (though, then again, with said cheapies often outperforming designer and niche fragrances nowadays, who can say), but it is how this musk comes across.
On the one hand, Addictive Vibration is delicious. The part I had expected to like, is indeed great. I had not, however, counted on 'flower stem rot in the root cellar' to take my joy away.
Alas, that's what happened and it isn't until the very, very last moments of AV on my skin, its dying moments if you will, that the disgusting musk dissipates and you get what Initio should've created: a wonderful, elegant honey-lathered blossom-duo, with a vanilla base. Sadly, by that time the fragrance is in nose-to-skin territory and ready to vaporise entirely. I think I barely got 10min out of it.
Please, Initio, dump that atrocious Musk and add a creamy sandalwood base, or a warm golden amber, maybe some coumarin, or even a cashmere infused vanilla. All they'll do is give the warm hug this fragrance deserves and should've had from the very start.
Yes, it has a decent lasting power and average projection, which on my dry skin means it is good to great on others, but who wants to smell like almost rotten flowers, and damp earth mixed with honey? (I thought I was alone in this, based on the hallelujah reviews, but 'luckily' found others on the red site. If musk can be a difficult note for you, I think this is a no- go. But in all cases>>>)
Definitely do NOT blind buy!
Disappointing
The risk with hyped up fragrances is, that we often expect a lot from them and just as often jump on them sight unseen/unsmelled. After I got burnt a few times I cleaned out my YouTube subscriptions - I now follow a handful of very knowledgeable, trustworthy reviewers - and get samples/ decants whenever possible. That doesn't mean I don't, on occasion, get very excited about a perfume if it's shown a lot and seems interesting.
That's where Mohra comes in. I'd been wanting to try this in forever, but couldn't get a 2ml sample below €4 (I honestly think the prices for these tiny decants in plastic sprayers are often ridiculous for fragrances that are this cheap, but that's another discussion altogether). Finally I managed to acquire a small decant this week and I basically knew enough after one spray. However, good reviewing consists of wearing the fragrance as often and within as many variable circumstances as possible. So I did.
My opinion, sadly, stayed the same. Mohra can't suffer from a lack of maturation, as it's a decant (those are rarely fresh as a daisy), meaning that the very disappointing projection, sillage and longevity are part of its DNA.
It won't leave a scent trail and the projection is intimate, becoming a soft skin scent after an hour. Layering with an oil or very good lotion will amp all that up a tad, but never to suddenly reach average performance, let alone above.
Now, I actually know of quite a lot of people who don't care about projection and sillage if they love the scent, and who drop their longevity wish as well when fragrances are as cheap as Mohra. Thus, for those people I'll describe the actual scent.
I do have to give credit where credit is due: Lattafa's Penhaligon's Halfeti Cedar inspiration/twist is marvellously blended. It is smooth, and individual notes are difficult to pick out. Those of us with a trained nose will most likely notice a bit of saffron, lavender, pepper and cedarwood (on my skin), but all in all the juice is mostly giving the idea of one fully cooked scent.
That's, unfortunately, where my compliments end. Don't get me wrong, Mohra isn't awful, disgusting, screechy, too synthetic, juvenile, or the opposite. No, in all honestly, there's nothing wrong with the fragrance. But... there is nothing really right with it either. It doesn't do *anything* for me.
The often mentioned cola note is definitely there. Mohra opens with that strongly, softly supported by a hint of saffron and an even softer touch of black pepper - so soft thàt's gone in a jiffy as well. That's sort of nice ish, but not exactly making me eager to sniff my arm again.
When the cola accord becomes a little less obvious, the lavender is easier to pick out and the cedar surfaces more strongly. But when I say 'strongly', I merely mean I recognise the note and its appearance to the heart easily. In this fragrance nothing is strong. Heart and dry- down are pretty similar, but for the fact I lose my whiff of lavender for 99%. By that time I also need to put my nose to my skin to make sure Mohra is still there, so that's not saying much.
The Parfumo categories state spicy, smoky, woody and sweet. Pretty much the only one that comes out on my skin is 'sweet', via the cola note. Maybe a tiny, tiny bit of 'woody credit' can be given because I get some recognisable cedar. But spicy and smoky are truly the least noticeable adjectives I'll ever give this fragrance. Perhaps if the labdanum surfaces strongly on your skin, you'll be able to say so. That would most likely make Mohra a more interesting perfume as well. As I'm judging Mohra based off of my own human suit I can only conclude it isn't - interesting.
I thought perhaps I tested this in the wrong season. However based on the pie chart, the end of October is a perfect month to wear this often positively described Lattafa.
My conclusion is simple: my skin chemistry obviously doesn't let Mohra shine, if there is something to it for others. I expected a sweet-spicy-smoky fragrance and got a lukewarm experience that I'll likely be able to repeat by drinking a glass of cola while sniffing my spice cabinet from afar. Not for me. But, who knows... maybe for you. As long as you don't mind an underwhelming performance, that is. (Pssst, don't blind buy).
That's where Mohra comes in. I'd been wanting to try this in forever, but couldn't get a 2ml sample below €4 (I honestly think the prices for these tiny decants in plastic sprayers are often ridiculous for fragrances that are this cheap, but that's another discussion altogether). Finally I managed to acquire a small decant this week and I basically knew enough after one spray. However, good reviewing consists of wearing the fragrance as often and within as many variable circumstances as possible. So I did.
My opinion, sadly, stayed the same. Mohra can't suffer from a lack of maturation, as it's a decant (those are rarely fresh as a daisy), meaning that the very disappointing projection, sillage and longevity are part of its DNA.
It won't leave a scent trail and the projection is intimate, becoming a soft skin scent after an hour. Layering with an oil or very good lotion will amp all that up a tad, but never to suddenly reach average performance, let alone above.
Now, I actually know of quite a lot of people who don't care about projection and sillage if they love the scent, and who drop their longevity wish as well when fragrances are as cheap as Mohra. Thus, for those people I'll describe the actual scent.
I do have to give credit where credit is due: Lattafa's Penhaligon's Halfeti Cedar inspiration/twist is marvellously blended. It is smooth, and individual notes are difficult to pick out. Those of us with a trained nose will most likely notice a bit of saffron, lavender, pepper and cedarwood (on my skin), but all in all the juice is mostly giving the idea of one fully cooked scent.
That's, unfortunately, where my compliments end. Don't get me wrong, Mohra isn't awful, disgusting, screechy, too synthetic, juvenile, or the opposite. No, in all honestly, there's nothing wrong with the fragrance. But... there is nothing really right with it either. It doesn't do *anything* for me.
The often mentioned cola note is definitely there. Mohra opens with that strongly, softly supported by a hint of saffron and an even softer touch of black pepper - so soft thàt's gone in a jiffy as well. That's sort of nice ish, but not exactly making me eager to sniff my arm again.
When the cola accord becomes a little less obvious, the lavender is easier to pick out and the cedar surfaces more strongly. But when I say 'strongly', I merely mean I recognise the note and its appearance to the heart easily. In this fragrance nothing is strong. Heart and dry- down are pretty similar, but for the fact I lose my whiff of lavender for 99%. By that time I also need to put my nose to my skin to make sure Mohra is still there, so that's not saying much.
The Parfumo categories state spicy, smoky, woody and sweet. Pretty much the only one that comes out on my skin is 'sweet', via the cola note. Maybe a tiny, tiny bit of 'woody credit' can be given because I get some recognisable cedar. But spicy and smoky are truly the least noticeable adjectives I'll ever give this fragrance. Perhaps if the labdanum surfaces strongly on your skin, you'll be able to say so. That would most likely make Mohra a more interesting perfume as well. As I'm judging Mohra based off of my own human suit I can only conclude it isn't - interesting.
I thought perhaps I tested this in the wrong season. However based on the pie chart, the end of October is a perfect month to wear this often positively described Lattafa.
My conclusion is simple: my skin chemistry obviously doesn't let Mohra shine, if there is something to it for others. I expected a sweet-spicy-smoky fragrance and got a lukewarm experience that I'll likely be able to repeat by drinking a glass of cola while sniffing my spice cabinet from afar. Not for me. But, who knows... maybe for you. As long as you don't mind an underwhelming performance, that is. (Pssst, don't blind buy).
Vanilla-Musk that pretends to be a Hypnotic Poison dupe
When I bought this perfume I had no idea it was supposed to be a dupe for Hypnotic Poison - it was recommended in a circle of Arabic perfume users as a layering scent. Because it was so inexpensive (I paid just under 7 euro) I added it to my cart when I was buying sth off Amazon anyway. My 1st experience was terrible: "blegh !" A huge alcohol cloud, and barely any perfume scent apart from some screechy faux vanilla and a bit of nasty jasmine. I'm used to more of an alcohol blast in cheapies, either because maceration barely happened or the alcohol used is of bad quality. But this made me cough up a long!
My experiences with online orders, particularly those coming from abroad (as products in my own country are generally much more expensive than other EU members I tend to order the majority of my perfume across the border), and especially if fragrances are under €40/100ml, have taught me that I should let a new arrival have some "maceration & chill" time, as I've dubbed it now ;). So I sprayed a few more times to empty the atomiser and left the -by the way super handy travelsize - bottle alone for 3 weeks. After that, the alcohol in the opening was still very strong, but less so. And with each extra week it became less.
While the alcohol opening never fully disappeared, it was now only 'active' in the first 10 seconds. After that a boozy, bitter almond scent appeared (from the tonka I assume). The almond was shortly accompanied by a creamy vanilla and a soft jasmine-tuberose mix. And that's when I thought: what the hey hey...I KNOW this fragrance! Hypnotic Poison (edt)!
Unfortunately the heart is flighty and loses the strength of the almond- vanilla-floral accord quickly in the pushy musk of the base. On my skin it therefore loses the bulk of its dupe quality.
The dry down ends in a strong musk that has very soft accents of sandalwood and a barely recognisable white flower, or what I considered bitter almonds. I can see the resemblance with Dior’s popular baby, but mostly in the heart. The dry down is too musky - at least on my skin. That's a shame because for a moment there it came very close to the inspiration.
As a fan of Hypnotic Poison, but with a small wallet, I've tested several dupes already (Jeanne Arthes Guipure and Silk, Pascal Morabito Lady In Red, La Rive's Sweet Hope, Zara Femme, or Poison Noir by an Arab brand). Like this Spirit none of them reach 100% scent wise, but for their prices they're acceptable. If you are lucky enough to have a skin chemistry that holds on to the fragrance that blossoms in the heart of the pyramid development in the dry down as well, Cashmere is one of the better duplicates.
Alas, there's good reason why I won't be repurchasing Cashmere in the future. First off, projection, sillage and longevity are rather disappointing. To say they're all limited is an understatement. I always spray the fragrance in question on my hand when I'm reviewing, in case I need a reminder. In the time I've written this text, the perfume has walked all its pyramid steps, gotten to the dry down and already lost pretty much its entire projection- what little is there to begin with. It's now a very soft skin- scent, only perceivable when nose hits skin. You'll then get mostly musk, some vanilla and a hint of almond.
I think this is why it was recommended as layering by certain fellow fragantophiles. It's a nice smell that'll quite likely strengthen a vanillic base or bitter almond note in another perfume. However, as a standalone it won't be strong enough imho. Now, I do have perfume eating skin, but this is bad performance. Even for me. If I douse myself in the stuff - at least 30 sprays - I expect to get an hour from a bodymist. As this is sold as an eau de parfum I would expect three hours for this price. And with 30 sprays! But...I get maybe half an hour of intimate projection and then approximately 15-20min of barely there skin scent. Then: poof!
(EDIT OCTOBER 2023). What's more: the quality also lacks in another department. Shelf life. Literal shelf life. We're usually promised around 3 years before we need to shuck our perfumes. We all know those with strong, heavy notes can sometimes last half a lifetime with good care, where citrusy and other lighter fragrances might start to change, losing topnotes, becoming less strong. And based on my experiences most freshies need to say goodbye around 3yrs after opening, save for a few exceptions (DKNY's apples! The OG's about 14yrs old and still exactly the same!).
I keep all my perfumes in their own boxes, in a dark closet that's rarely opened during their "off seasons", and otherwise on a shelf in my bedroom where the sun never hits if my room would be bathed in light (But as my very thick UV blocking curtains are always closed - creepy voyueristic neighbour across the street - they're basically in a dark room too then.) That's why my freshies have not gone off, nor changed since I got them (pre 2020, or 2020).
That's not the case for the in 2022 bought Cashmere. It turned pinkish - strangely enough the picture shows it pink, but it arrived light yellow - and now smells like vinegar with a hint of almond and tuberose. Barf. White Vanilla, another Spirit I got early '23, still mostly smells like its meant to be, but *extremely* light... and the off-smell is slowly creeping in. Seeing as they're about 11 and 9 months old respectively and were treated well, that's just not okay.
If you're on a tight budget, are looking for A. a dupe-ish of Hypnotic Poison or a nice vanilla smell with white floral/ musk/ almond accents, and B. don't have a large collection: definitely go for it. It's not a huge loss of money and if you don't have 50 or 100, or even more fragrances competing for attention, you might likely finish this 30ml before its untimely demise. Besides, even the majority of the best of perfumes perform atrocious on my skin, so it could just do better on yours. Don't expect miracles, though.
As for me: I'm done with this brand. For the scent I would've repurchased Spirit of White Vanilla - this Hypnotic Poison wannabe just isn't it, for me - but the quality and early trashcan journey makes me think even €7 is €7 too much.
My experiences with online orders, particularly those coming from abroad (as products in my own country are generally much more expensive than other EU members I tend to order the majority of my perfume across the border), and especially if fragrances are under €40/100ml, have taught me that I should let a new arrival have some "maceration & chill" time, as I've dubbed it now ;). So I sprayed a few more times to empty the atomiser and left the -by the way super handy travelsize - bottle alone for 3 weeks. After that, the alcohol in the opening was still very strong, but less so. And with each extra week it became less.
While the alcohol opening never fully disappeared, it was now only 'active' in the first 10 seconds. After that a boozy, bitter almond scent appeared (from the tonka I assume). The almond was shortly accompanied by a creamy vanilla and a soft jasmine-tuberose mix. And that's when I thought: what the hey hey...I KNOW this fragrance! Hypnotic Poison (edt)!
Unfortunately the heart is flighty and loses the strength of the almond- vanilla-floral accord quickly in the pushy musk of the base. On my skin it therefore loses the bulk of its dupe quality.
The dry down ends in a strong musk that has very soft accents of sandalwood and a barely recognisable white flower, or what I considered bitter almonds. I can see the resemblance with Dior’s popular baby, but mostly in the heart. The dry down is too musky - at least on my skin. That's a shame because for a moment there it came very close to the inspiration.
As a fan of Hypnotic Poison, but with a small wallet, I've tested several dupes already (Jeanne Arthes Guipure and Silk, Pascal Morabito Lady In Red, La Rive's Sweet Hope, Zara Femme, or Poison Noir by an Arab brand). Like this Spirit none of them reach 100% scent wise, but for their prices they're acceptable. If you are lucky enough to have a skin chemistry that holds on to the fragrance that blossoms in the heart of the pyramid development in the dry down as well, Cashmere is one of the better duplicates.
Alas, there's good reason why I won't be repurchasing Cashmere in the future. First off, projection, sillage and longevity are rather disappointing. To say they're all limited is an understatement. I always spray the fragrance in question on my hand when I'm reviewing, in case I need a reminder. In the time I've written this text, the perfume has walked all its pyramid steps, gotten to the dry down and already lost pretty much its entire projection- what little is there to begin with. It's now a very soft skin- scent, only perceivable when nose hits skin. You'll then get mostly musk, some vanilla and a hint of almond.
I think this is why it was recommended as layering by certain fellow fragantophiles. It's a nice smell that'll quite likely strengthen a vanillic base or bitter almond note in another perfume. However, as a standalone it won't be strong enough imho. Now, I do have perfume eating skin, but this is bad performance. Even for me. If I douse myself in the stuff - at least 30 sprays - I expect to get an hour from a bodymist. As this is sold as an eau de parfum I would expect three hours for this price. And with 30 sprays! But...I get maybe half an hour of intimate projection and then approximately 15-20min of barely there skin scent. Then: poof!
(EDIT OCTOBER 2023). What's more: the quality also lacks in another department. Shelf life. Literal shelf life. We're usually promised around 3 years before we need to shuck our perfumes. We all know those with strong, heavy notes can sometimes last half a lifetime with good care, where citrusy and other lighter fragrances might start to change, losing topnotes, becoming less strong. And based on my experiences most freshies need to say goodbye around 3yrs after opening, save for a few exceptions (DKNY's apples! The OG's about 14yrs old and still exactly the same!).
I keep all my perfumes in their own boxes, in a dark closet that's rarely opened during their "off seasons", and otherwise on a shelf in my bedroom where the sun never hits if my room would be bathed in light (But as my very thick UV blocking curtains are always closed - creepy voyueristic neighbour across the street - they're basically in a dark room too then.) That's why my freshies have not gone off, nor changed since I got them (pre 2020, or 2020).
That's not the case for the in 2022 bought Cashmere. It turned pinkish - strangely enough the picture shows it pink, but it arrived light yellow - and now smells like vinegar with a hint of almond and tuberose. Barf. White Vanilla, another Spirit I got early '23, still mostly smells like its meant to be, but *extremely* light... and the off-smell is slowly creeping in. Seeing as they're about 11 and 9 months old respectively and were treated well, that's just not okay.
If you're on a tight budget, are looking for A. a dupe-ish of Hypnotic Poison or a nice vanilla smell with white floral/ musk/ almond accents, and B. don't have a large collection: definitely go for it. It's not a huge loss of money and if you don't have 50 or 100, or even more fragrances competing for attention, you might likely finish this 30ml before its untimely demise. Besides, even the majority of the best of perfumes perform atrocious on my skin, so it could just do better on yours. Don't expect miracles, though.
As for me: I'm done with this brand. For the scent I would've repurchased Spirit of White Vanilla - this Hypnotic Poison wannabe just isn't it, for me - but the quality and early trashcan journey makes me think even €7 is €7 too much.
Sultry, sensual Serge (+layering tips)
I know Iinear and /or simple fragrances are often labelled "boring", or even "bad quality" - undeservedly so. A very small pyramid, or an immediate feel for how you'll smell within minutes, doesn't say anything about the scent, the ingredients, lasting power, or how the fragrance'll make you feel. Not to mention the fact plenty perfumes that dó develop, or use a wide variety of notes in 3 tiers, end up smelling cheap or bad. Or they miss projection and longevity. Besides, I'm sure we've all known that one particular perfume that smells amazing in the opening, only to develop into a dry-down that misses your favorite accord. All reasons not to put down fragrances that lack a multitude of steps.
This Lutens, another Sheldrake creation, is a perfect example of both simple and linear. It doesn't change much, and the scent is quite straightforward from the start. The opening is short, and as soon as you hit the heart, you'll know what the dry down gives you. And, in effect, all the hours to come that Fils de Joie will be wafting of off your skin.
The fragrance opens with a full bouquet of smooth Jasmine flowers and a flirty hint of ylang-ylang. It's a heady mix, promising the sensuality I've read about. Imagine enjoying a warm evening on the balcony of a Greek apartment. You're completely relaxed after a day of culture sniffing and swimming under the sun, lounging in a cushioned chair. The warm air caresses your skin like a lover. You close your eyes and feel a soft breeze stirring the air, moving the bell shaped flowered bushes surrounding the grounds of the building. The delicious sweet, heady scent of night blooming jasmine wafts up and it's as if you're lying in a field full of blossoming flowers.
Then you remember the delicious dessert you had at dinner, how warm, rich honey drizzled off your spoon. Soon the sultry jasmine mixes in with the warm, thick honey and you fall asleep dreaming satisfying dreams...
Thàt's what you'll be projecting when wearing Fils de Joie: Fields of (night) blooming jasmine and a luscious, strong honey- dipped ylang-ylang on a clean musk that's not really perceived but merely makes sure everything stays sweet and full, not indolic. It's a scent that makes you inhale deep and often. It's heavy and rich, heady and sultry. Sweet, but utterly mature in its sensuality. While relatively simple, for me this Lutens is the ultimate mix of sophistication and carnality.
Usually a floral-musk doesn't last on me all that long. Three hours tops, with meagre projection. That certainly isn't the case here. Based on my week of wearing I can conclude we have an arm-length+ projection, going into intimate after several hours, a 10 to 12hr longevity, with a small scent trail. I did become anosmic quite fast, but the compliments from my environment told me it was still there. During the night I often noticed a delicious scent drifting upwards from my cleavage. Spraying/ dabbing around the heart works really well.
Because FdJ is definitely strong directly after initial application, a multitude of dabs (more than 10 on dry skin, more than 5 on normal/ oily) will choke everyone out. Also be careful with re-use; If you also get anosmic, check first. Reapplication might not be necessary to begin with.
[DAB, not spray]
Maybe you've noticed I used the word "dab"? That's with good reason. Serge Lutens delivers bottles with a regular screw cap - atomiser seperately [100ml bought in Oct 23]. I initially tested with a dab on my pulse and top of my hand (later on all the regular pulse points). However, being so enamoured with the fragrance I added the atomiser the next day. After all, dabbing uses up more and can cause accidental spilling (FdJ is bloodred juice, so however you wear it, be careful of clothes!).
And thus my second wear was applied with a spray, as is normal with most edp's. This is the part where I understood why one of the reviews below stated "this fragrance is meant to be dabbed". The first three hours after using the atomiser I suddenly hated this fragrance! The spray gave me a strong musk that was absolutely disgusting. Think a throat-scratchy chalky smell mixed with a very-there saliva-ish note. While the saliva scent disippated after 45 minutes, the rest of the nasty musk stayed, and swallowed the otherwise warm & sweet Jasmine whole for the most part.
Worse: the honeyed ylang that elevates the jasmines to its heady addictive sensual aroma in both heart & dry-down now gives... urine. Actual morning - I drank too little water- piss. And even though the dirty musk is mostly gone at hour 2, the urine smell remains strongly for at least a full hour after that. After 3- 3.5 hours the fragrance loses some strength overall, and it's then that we - slowly but steadily - go towards a similar-to-dab dry down. A softer, less projecting dry down, but at least you no longer smell like morning piss and bad breath.
I tested both dab & spray multiple times and each time I got the same result (thank heavens I didn't need to go somewhere). I'm utterly shocked and confused. The manner of application shouldn't influence the scent that much, right? If I hadn't been extra careful with my first test - and hadn't realised I'd read about it - I would've only sprayed as usual and then gotten rid of a perfume I would normally love. It's why I put it out here for others. Don't like it when sprayed? DAB!
When used correctly for your skin, you can expect a sweet and rich fragrance that can be used in a large part of the year. Fils de Joie doesn't need to be delegated to the cold weather shelves just because of its sweetness (nor solely to a woman's vanity!). I think it will definitely shine in lower temperatures, though I also expect it can still easily be worn in spring and summer - as long as it isn't too warm and you adapt the amount of sprays/dabs. The combination of notes makes it a rather "VavaVoom" concoction, meaning that the majority of perfume wearers (not me. I prefer to feel sexy on the daily *grin*) probably keeps it for a romantic date, going out and (other) special occassions. It'll also be perfect to boost confidence in social and business events.
No matter how and when you'll use it, this fragrance will be a love for anyone with Jasmine and Ylang Ylang/ honey on the favourite notes list.
THREE TIPS for layering:
Layering gives multiple advantages: extra projection, better longevity, upping a note that isn't coming out, or you're sorely missing in the juice, or creating your own unique scent. Here are 3 simple mixing options to get you started. Layer FdJ with>>
1. A honey forward perfume like Scandal, or Shock-In-Scent by Police. It'll make it sweeter, and keep the honey longer.
2. A beeswax centered frag. Kim Kardashian's Pure Honey for example, though perhaps Dreamhouse Ikiryo Bees and Butterflies is an option too, will make Fils de Joie even more sensual and rich, as long as both fragrances mostly give you a dark honey- real beeswax scent. Extra longevity guaranteed too.
3. YSL Libre Intense, or its stronger on vanilla-dupe Golden Decade (Zara), will kick the jasmine into the next galaxy and offer a slight extra with the orange blossom, vanilla - and if strong on your skin (not on mine) - lavender. Be careful, because both project rather strongly.
Enjoy!
This Lutens, another Sheldrake creation, is a perfect example of both simple and linear. It doesn't change much, and the scent is quite straightforward from the start. The opening is short, and as soon as you hit the heart, you'll know what the dry down gives you. And, in effect, all the hours to come that Fils de Joie will be wafting of off your skin.
The fragrance opens with a full bouquet of smooth Jasmine flowers and a flirty hint of ylang-ylang. It's a heady mix, promising the sensuality I've read about. Imagine enjoying a warm evening on the balcony of a Greek apartment. You're completely relaxed after a day of culture sniffing and swimming under the sun, lounging in a cushioned chair. The warm air caresses your skin like a lover. You close your eyes and feel a soft breeze stirring the air, moving the bell shaped flowered bushes surrounding the grounds of the building. The delicious sweet, heady scent of night blooming jasmine wafts up and it's as if you're lying in a field full of blossoming flowers.
Then you remember the delicious dessert you had at dinner, how warm, rich honey drizzled off your spoon. Soon the sultry jasmine mixes in with the warm, thick honey and you fall asleep dreaming satisfying dreams...
Thàt's what you'll be projecting when wearing Fils de Joie: Fields of (night) blooming jasmine and a luscious, strong honey- dipped ylang-ylang on a clean musk that's not really perceived but merely makes sure everything stays sweet and full, not indolic. It's a scent that makes you inhale deep and often. It's heavy and rich, heady and sultry. Sweet, but utterly mature in its sensuality. While relatively simple, for me this Lutens is the ultimate mix of sophistication and carnality.
Usually a floral-musk doesn't last on me all that long. Three hours tops, with meagre projection. That certainly isn't the case here. Based on my week of wearing I can conclude we have an arm-length+ projection, going into intimate after several hours, a 10 to 12hr longevity, with a small scent trail. I did become anosmic quite fast, but the compliments from my environment told me it was still there. During the night I often noticed a delicious scent drifting upwards from my cleavage. Spraying/ dabbing around the heart works really well.
Because FdJ is definitely strong directly after initial application, a multitude of dabs (more than 10 on dry skin, more than 5 on normal/ oily) will choke everyone out. Also be careful with re-use; If you also get anosmic, check first. Reapplication might not be necessary to begin with.
[DAB, not spray]
Maybe you've noticed I used the word "dab"? That's with good reason. Serge Lutens delivers bottles with a regular screw cap - atomiser seperately [100ml bought in Oct 23]. I initially tested with a dab on my pulse and top of my hand (later on all the regular pulse points). However, being so enamoured with the fragrance I added the atomiser the next day. After all, dabbing uses up more and can cause accidental spilling (FdJ is bloodred juice, so however you wear it, be careful of clothes!).
And thus my second wear was applied with a spray, as is normal with most edp's. This is the part where I understood why one of the reviews below stated "this fragrance is meant to be dabbed". The first three hours after using the atomiser I suddenly hated this fragrance! The spray gave me a strong musk that was absolutely disgusting. Think a throat-scratchy chalky smell mixed with a very-there saliva-ish note. While the saliva scent disippated after 45 minutes, the rest of the nasty musk stayed, and swallowed the otherwise warm & sweet Jasmine whole for the most part.
Worse: the honeyed ylang that elevates the jasmines to its heady addictive sensual aroma in both heart & dry-down now gives... urine. Actual morning - I drank too little water- piss. And even though the dirty musk is mostly gone at hour 2, the urine smell remains strongly for at least a full hour after that. After 3- 3.5 hours the fragrance loses some strength overall, and it's then that we - slowly but steadily - go towards a similar-to-dab dry down. A softer, less projecting dry down, but at least you no longer smell like morning piss and bad breath.
I tested both dab & spray multiple times and each time I got the same result (thank heavens I didn't need to go somewhere). I'm utterly shocked and confused. The manner of application shouldn't influence the scent that much, right? If I hadn't been extra careful with my first test - and hadn't realised I'd read about it - I would've only sprayed as usual and then gotten rid of a perfume I would normally love. It's why I put it out here for others. Don't like it when sprayed? DAB!
When used correctly for your skin, you can expect a sweet and rich fragrance that can be used in a large part of the year. Fils de Joie doesn't need to be delegated to the cold weather shelves just because of its sweetness (nor solely to a woman's vanity!). I think it will definitely shine in lower temperatures, though I also expect it can still easily be worn in spring and summer - as long as it isn't too warm and you adapt the amount of sprays/dabs. The combination of notes makes it a rather "VavaVoom" concoction, meaning that the majority of perfume wearers (not me. I prefer to feel sexy on the daily *grin*) probably keeps it for a romantic date, going out and (other) special occassions. It'll also be perfect to boost confidence in social and business events.
No matter how and when you'll use it, this fragrance will be a love for anyone with Jasmine and Ylang Ylang/ honey on the favourite notes list.
THREE TIPS for layering:
Layering gives multiple advantages: extra projection, better longevity, upping a note that isn't coming out, or you're sorely missing in the juice, or creating your own unique scent. Here are 3 simple mixing options to get you started. Layer FdJ with>>
1. A honey forward perfume like Scandal, or Shock-In-Scent by Police. It'll make it sweeter, and keep the honey longer.
2. A beeswax centered frag. Kim Kardashian's Pure Honey for example, though perhaps Dreamhouse Ikiryo Bees and Butterflies is an option too, will make Fils de Joie even more sensual and rich, as long as both fragrances mostly give you a dark honey- real beeswax scent. Extra longevity guaranteed too.
3. YSL Libre Intense, or its stronger on vanilla-dupe Golden Decade (Zara), will kick the jasmine into the next galaxy and offer a slight extra with the orange blossom, vanilla - and if strong on your skin (not on mine) - lavender. Be careful, because both project rather strongly.
Enjoy!
Beeswax- honey bomb
If there ever was a perfume that convinced me of two very important things it's Pure Honey.
1. not to have a negative hang-up about certain names. I assumed anything related to the Kardashian family had to smell tacky (no offense if you're a fan). I was wrong.
2. AND - but I was already very much aware of this - skin chemistry + olfactory senses + climate + taste have such an amazingly large influence on how a fragrance develops and then is perceived by a person you can't automatically assume that if a reviewer says "it's yummy" it will be so on *your skin* as well.
It's the reason why I always mention my type skin and quite often also that I'm from the Low Countries. It's why I also prefer to read reviews that include development of the scent, possible references to things I know from daily life, aswell as longevity /projection in relation to their skin type. Not everyone does that, which is why I'm trying to be exemplary :).
Point2 is of the utmost importance when it comes to Kim K's honey fragrance. I've rarely seen so many diverse, but also that many polar opposite, opinions on a perfume. Mid-2022 I was gifted a honey fragrance and that left me with the urge to find more. Sweet notes always have a hard time coming through on my skin - Citrusy, Spicey and Leathery accords always win. Not honey though, making it an instant sweet fave (the compliments helped too.)
Despite my dislike for the K & J circus, I caved. Trusting someone who has been right about "me" scents before. I'm not against celebrity fragrances per se. While snobbism in the fragrance community runs rampant - hey, you know I'm right - I've never been afflicted by it. However, the few experiences I've had with celeb edp's were rather sad. The fact that all the reviews said different things, ranging from "weak, bad white floral", to "boring execution" to (even) "smells like piss", made me scared of the first spray coming out of the Pure Honey atomiser.
Not sure if I got the attention of the gods with that fear, but the first spray did indeed smell really weird; a blast of alcohol, cheap weak musk and very far in the background a sliver of honey and white florals.
Now, I could've based my review on that and a few days of testing in that same week, coming to the same conclusion as Miss "weak, bad floral". However, the big alcohol cloud and lack of obvious notes told me what I needed to know: maceration fail.
For some reason 95% of the bottles that end up here via an online purchase the last 3yrs first need to chill & macerate for several weeks, if not months (CK Euphoria f.e. needed 7 months to go from raspberry gummy bear water scent to an actual perfume) in order to smell like they should. Pure Honey seemed to fit the bill as well. So, I emptied out the plastic tube and waited...
Six weeks later I tried a spritz of Pure Honey (after this PH as well) again and got what I've been getting every single time I use it now: a beeswax heavy elegant fragrance that has somehow escaped the 'weak & generic' label so many other celeb scents get tagged with.
PH opens with a strong beeswax accent that'll last until the very end. The opening gives a bit of mandarin blossom as well - though it comes across as neroli tbh - before both get company from a thick, warm honey.
It isn't the smooth lights sugary honey from Scandal or Police's Shock-in-Scent, but a darker, slightly unrefined variant that mixes perfectly with the wax (I imagine the actual honeycombs when smelling it, not a candle wax or lip balm).
A soft addition of rose and a fully blossomed honeysuckle both give PH an interesting floral accent without becoming a typical floral or obvious rose perfume. The honeysuckle has a slight skanky edge in the heart, as if it's almost ready for the bin. That edge, together with the dark honey, could put the scent of Pure Honey in the urine-zone if your skin chemistry disagrees with the juice.
On me it actually gives the perfume a raw, sensual edge, making sure that Kim K's creation doesn't become candy sweet or juvenile. Someone on the F- forum, who got the exact same effect on her skin as I do, labelled Pure Honey therefore for "old ladies". She didn't like it, 'it' being too mature for her. To that I say simply: you know who you are. This beeswax-honey mix is a gem to anyone who is seeking a sensual and strong perfume that'll let people know you're not afraid to be noticed. Imho such a statement defies age and gender, btw.
I don't get any coconut from the pyramid and - to my surprise - no musk (anymore) either. The vanilla is there, but as a steady, soft background note. Not as anything obvious or overpowering.
The dry down on my skin is a perfect blend of beeswax, unsugared honey (that must be what the name hints at) with a vanillic-floral touch - sans skank. It's somewhat linear after the initial opening, but in my opinion never boring.
The fragrance is perfect as a topper - honey or beeswax is great with a large variety of fragrances - but works very well as a standalone perfume too. It suits Autumn, Winter and (early) Spring best scent wise, but I have personally used the perfume this Summer too. It was a mild 21°C, and I played mixologist: Hamsah by Swiss Arabian (Hamsah is a citrus forward honey fragrance) + Pure Honey. When temperatures cross the 25 degrees line, especially with the humidity in my country, Pure Honey on its own becomes a little too heavy for my taste, but layering it with a freshie could give interesting results. It is still an ideal date night scent when at the beach in 25+ though.
No matter when, or how you use it, you can expect a certain amount of quality. Even on my extremely dry, perfume eating skin it has a decent lasting power. Pure Honey has a projection that strengthens over time. In its second spring season it had a moderate projection for about 4hrs, becoming intimate in the last 3, based on 5 pulse point & 1 back of the neck sprays (again: on my difficult skin). In the first hour it is really strong, so overspraying is not what I would advise. If you consider the projection too soft, layer, or respray after a while. Temperatures do have a building effect. Pure Honey on my skin is more 'wintry' gourmand than 'summery' floral, but know it performs better the higher the mercury rises.
If there's one thing to complain about, it's the bottle. Sure, it looks very nice with its elegant shape, strong lines and cute bee on the front (apart from the cheap and ill-fitting plastic cap), but it's so big and chunky it's almost impossible to hold - especially if you have small hands like me. I often need to use both hands or rest it on something and then twist the to be sprayed upon extremity or cleavage part like I'm auditioning for Cirque du Soleil. The design might have worked in a 30ml, but not in a 100. On top of that - which is ironic since some people swear it smells like urine - I get one of those weak, thin piss streams - zero mist - from the atomiser that makes it very hard to properly douse yourself.
I can only hope my 2nd bottle - yup, got a backup already as it's harder and harder to get - does have a proper mist. Though that bottle remains a horror in usability. Looks nice on a vanity though... if that's what you care about.
Long story short: I recommend. But test first.
Hmmm, guess Michael Buble and Jessica Simpson are next on the "please surprise me" list!
(This review is an altered version of a previously posted article on the F-site)
1. not to have a negative hang-up about certain names. I assumed anything related to the Kardashian family had to smell tacky (no offense if you're a fan). I was wrong.
2. AND - but I was already very much aware of this - skin chemistry + olfactory senses + climate + taste have such an amazingly large influence on how a fragrance develops and then is perceived by a person you can't automatically assume that if a reviewer says "it's yummy" it will be so on *your skin* as well.
It's the reason why I always mention my type skin and quite often also that I'm from the Low Countries. It's why I also prefer to read reviews that include development of the scent, possible references to things I know from daily life, aswell as longevity /projection in relation to their skin type. Not everyone does that, which is why I'm trying to be exemplary :).
Point2 is of the utmost importance when it comes to Kim K's honey fragrance. I've rarely seen so many diverse, but also that many polar opposite, opinions on a perfume. Mid-2022 I was gifted a honey fragrance and that left me with the urge to find more. Sweet notes always have a hard time coming through on my skin - Citrusy, Spicey and Leathery accords always win. Not honey though, making it an instant sweet fave (the compliments helped too.)
Despite my dislike for the K & J circus, I caved. Trusting someone who has been right about "me" scents before. I'm not against celebrity fragrances per se. While snobbism in the fragrance community runs rampant - hey, you know I'm right - I've never been afflicted by it. However, the few experiences I've had with celeb edp's were rather sad. The fact that all the reviews said different things, ranging from "weak, bad white floral", to "boring execution" to (even) "smells like piss", made me scared of the first spray coming out of the Pure Honey atomiser.
Not sure if I got the attention of the gods with that fear, but the first spray did indeed smell really weird; a blast of alcohol, cheap weak musk and very far in the background a sliver of honey and white florals.
Now, I could've based my review on that and a few days of testing in that same week, coming to the same conclusion as Miss "weak, bad floral". However, the big alcohol cloud and lack of obvious notes told me what I needed to know: maceration fail.
For some reason 95% of the bottles that end up here via an online purchase the last 3yrs first need to chill & macerate for several weeks, if not months (CK Euphoria f.e. needed 7 months to go from raspberry gummy bear water scent to an actual perfume) in order to smell like they should. Pure Honey seemed to fit the bill as well. So, I emptied out the plastic tube and waited...
Six weeks later I tried a spritz of Pure Honey (after this PH as well) again and got what I've been getting every single time I use it now: a beeswax heavy elegant fragrance that has somehow escaped the 'weak & generic' label so many other celeb scents get tagged with.
PH opens with a strong beeswax accent that'll last until the very end. The opening gives a bit of mandarin blossom as well - though it comes across as neroli tbh - before both get company from a thick, warm honey.
It isn't the smooth lights sugary honey from Scandal or Police's Shock-in-Scent, but a darker, slightly unrefined variant that mixes perfectly with the wax (I imagine the actual honeycombs when smelling it, not a candle wax or lip balm).
A soft addition of rose and a fully blossomed honeysuckle both give PH an interesting floral accent without becoming a typical floral or obvious rose perfume. The honeysuckle has a slight skanky edge in the heart, as if it's almost ready for the bin. That edge, together with the dark honey, could put the scent of Pure Honey in the urine-zone if your skin chemistry disagrees with the juice.
On me it actually gives the perfume a raw, sensual edge, making sure that Kim K's creation doesn't become candy sweet or juvenile. Someone on the F- forum, who got the exact same effect on her skin as I do, labelled Pure Honey therefore for "old ladies". She didn't like it, 'it' being too mature for her. To that I say simply: you know who you are. This beeswax-honey mix is a gem to anyone who is seeking a sensual and strong perfume that'll let people know you're not afraid to be noticed. Imho such a statement defies age and gender, btw.
I don't get any coconut from the pyramid and - to my surprise - no musk (anymore) either. The vanilla is there, but as a steady, soft background note. Not as anything obvious or overpowering.
The dry down on my skin is a perfect blend of beeswax, unsugared honey (that must be what the name hints at) with a vanillic-floral touch - sans skank. It's somewhat linear after the initial opening, but in my opinion never boring.
The fragrance is perfect as a topper - honey or beeswax is great with a large variety of fragrances - but works very well as a standalone perfume too. It suits Autumn, Winter and (early) Spring best scent wise, but I have personally used the perfume this Summer too. It was a mild 21°C, and I played mixologist: Hamsah by Swiss Arabian (Hamsah is a citrus forward honey fragrance) + Pure Honey. When temperatures cross the 25 degrees line, especially with the humidity in my country, Pure Honey on its own becomes a little too heavy for my taste, but layering it with a freshie could give interesting results. It is still an ideal date night scent when at the beach in 25+ though.
No matter when, or how you use it, you can expect a certain amount of quality. Even on my extremely dry, perfume eating skin it has a decent lasting power. Pure Honey has a projection that strengthens over time. In its second spring season it had a moderate projection for about 4hrs, becoming intimate in the last 3, based on 5 pulse point & 1 back of the neck sprays (again: on my difficult skin). In the first hour it is really strong, so overspraying is not what I would advise. If you consider the projection too soft, layer, or respray after a while. Temperatures do have a building effect. Pure Honey on my skin is more 'wintry' gourmand than 'summery' floral, but know it performs better the higher the mercury rises.
If there's one thing to complain about, it's the bottle. Sure, it looks very nice with its elegant shape, strong lines and cute bee on the front (apart from the cheap and ill-fitting plastic cap), but it's so big and chunky it's almost impossible to hold - especially if you have small hands like me. I often need to use both hands or rest it on something and then twist the to be sprayed upon extremity or cleavage part like I'm auditioning for Cirque du Soleil. The design might have worked in a 30ml, but not in a 100. On top of that - which is ironic since some people swear it smells like urine - I get one of those weak, thin piss streams - zero mist - from the atomiser that makes it very hard to properly douse yourself.
I can only hope my 2nd bottle - yup, got a backup already as it's harder and harder to get - does have a proper mist. Though that bottle remains a horror in usability. Looks nice on a vanity though... if that's what you care about.
Long story short: I recommend. But test first.
Hmmm, guess Michael Buble and Jessica Simpson are next on the "please surprise me" list!
(This review is an altered version of a previously posted article on the F-site)
