Razastan

Gilded opens with a distinctive golden effect: waxy, slightly metallic, and warm rather than bright. It feels tactile from the start, suggesting skin and heat more than air or sparkle. Might be the storytelling behind it? It works for me nonetheless.

The saffron is prominent and notably naturalistic, closer to the actual spice used in cooking or baking. A bit like Cappadocia. Rather than the synthetic or leathery saffron often found in modern perfumery. I guess the lemon keeps it from going too oriental right away. Though labdanum and myrrh add depth and warmth, creating a soft vanillic impression without actual sweetness, while frankincense remains restrained and structural.

A waxy carnation nuance reinforces the impression of warmth and skin. There is no overt leather, and any civet presence stays in the background maybe only just amplifying the corporal element of the bees wax. It brings a warm, bodily sweetness suggestive of sweat and exertion rather than dirt or aggression. Musk supports this effect without pushing it too far.

The drydown is smooth and cohesive, with the rougher elements absorbed rather than emphasized. Despite its animalic leanings, Gilded remains notably wearable and well-balanced.

It leans toward cooler weather, where its warmth and texture shine, but never becomes heavy or oppressive. For me, it works year-round and is one of my current favorites. The standout accord is of course the gold part that actually feels…golden.

Definitely a try before you buy scent though. Not everyone wants to reenact that scene from Goldfinger…and it comes with a rather hefty pricetag.

Ambre des Abysses shares a clear mossy kinship with Mousse Illuminée , yet their trajectories diverge. Where Mousse Illuminée settles immediately into the dry, structural green of treemoss (and keep’s its vintage-fougère-flirting-with-chypre-feel), Ambre des Abysses begins in light.

The opening is polished and aromatic, briefly recalling Reflection Man (main difference; its not as powdery). It feels elevated, almost serene. Then, slowly, the fragrance descends. Warmth deepens, shadows gather, and moss begins to surface.

Though it evokes an oakmoss-style depth, the moss here remains surprisingly dry. Less damp forest floor than shaded stone and bark. And that’s why I feel the connection to the treemossy Rogue creation. This dryness likely comes from the surrounding materials, which temper the moss and keep it austere rather than plush.

The result is a distinctly ”vertical” composition: a controlled fall from brightness into depth, where moss is not a texture but a destination. Whereas Mousse Illuminée has it as a structure.

For me, Ambre des Abysses is quietly monumental. Restrained, light then dark, and deeply satisfying. An unquestionable all-time favorite along with Rogues predecessor, complementing, not competing.
Houbigants best, followed by Fougère Royale (2010) Eau de Parfum

Oh. Excellent longevity on me and also perfect sillage and projection after the first 30 minutes.

I’ve only found two-three other perfumes that instantly resonated with me. This is the latest one (and I think with the strongest connection). It just feels like this is the way I’m supposed to smell: sand and skin of the most ethereal kind.
It’s not a gourmand, but it is related to it. Not at all a sunscreen scent to me. If it is, it’s the sunscreen of the gods.
Nice dewy floral clean first hit. Crisp tropical feeling thereafter. Not surprising reading the top notes - matching both Lysylang nd Mahonial. Ylang, but not too fruity. Then a resinous wonderful sensual drydown. Labdanum with just a skin like leather touch. Benzoin tandems with the mature and dark sweetness of ”natural” vanilla but also adds a nice balsamic background.
In between a smidge of peppery cedar, lightly smoky amyris and herbal earthy patchouli. Sandel adds creaminess in the classic way.
Sand and skin is very on point.
It’s actually perfect. Contemplative. Calm. Inviting but with integrity. Goes both in the headscape of beach warmth and desert warmth. More of a desert island.
I’m imagining both an ambery mist as well as embers. Stays a long time, doesn’t overpower your surroundings. It’s actually my most complemented perfume, just within two weeks of buying it. Very rarely someone makes a comment, but this one garnishes praise by not being too loud or too sweet - but still has a strong presence.

I’ve never looked twice att Floraïku: the concept of the French appropriating the Japanese culture just felt…a bit cynical. But a seller promptly told me to try this one. And boy I’m glad he did. It is expensive (I found the 50 ml and travel set for 200 €) but both the packaging and bottle(s) are great. Not perfect - a bit plasticky - but great.
Bought the discovery set as well, but haven’t found anything else on the same level. But will keep an eye out for others from the brand.

Summarized: a perfect 10/10 for me. Only Amouages Myths Man and Liquides Imaginaires Fleuve Tendre rivals it in the top. Maybe Houbigants Ambre Des Abysses and Widians Sahara as well. But they are of a different kind. Oh! And Bvlgaris Kobraa of course. But I’m almost at if I only could keep one perfume, it would be this one.
Recommended? Absolutely! But try first. I’m guessing the perfect smell and excellent performance (smell it on me the next day) is a result of great compatibility with my skin

Major players in this is for me the iris and the smoke. Both of them are present throughout all the stages, in different forms. The smoke starts destructive but ends uplifting. The iris comforts and mutes the intense opening and later on reanimates the floral parts.
The most interesting transformation is that from dark to bright and from dry to resinous.
Even though the changing aspects, the notes are somewhat present from start to end, and that is what makes this really good. A bit of an odd man out is the elemi in the start that is very citric but then moves to its more balsamic version.
Oh, and the chrysanthemums shift from bright floral to something almost closing in on immortelle in the first 30 minutes is exciting!

Or a more vivid description:
It's a smoky hangover journey from a urinal cake in Deaths cellar bathroom to a slow walk through a healing forest.
What's with this damp paper bag full of flower ashes? And what’s with that vague memory of a lipstick laden kiss while rolling in the dirt next to the fire?
What the hell? The sun just set and now it’s past sunrise?
Whos leather jacket am I wearing by the way?
But you know what? This could be THE day…when man become myth.

Needless to say: this is one of my all time favorites. Bought it early on in my fragrance journey. Sold it because it was to…weird. Bought it again ridiculously overpriced. Will cherish my 100 ml forever now.

Very fresh start, definitely mandarin and a substantial dose of pink pepper catapults a tingling citrus bomb around you.
It calms down after 5 minutes but maintains a strong projection for another 30.
I can sense the amber base almost instantly and it slow dances with the orange blossom to give the start a sweetness as well. But I wouldn’t be surprised if there was a pinch of maltol in it also. It’s definitely a good portion of Cetalox or Ambrocenide in there (I’m leaning towards Cetalox due to the soapyness and clean aspect - the dryness could be the cedar and/or vetiver).
Gets dryer and more ambery as time goes by. Starts to mellow down quite a lot.
What I do like about this one is the mandarin-orange blossom-pink pepper. Something…mossy or maybe cistus would’ve made it more interesting in the dry down?
But it is crowdpleasing and smells very nice. Very versatile in spring/summer (but would absolutely work as a ”freshie” in the colder seasons as well because of the amberwoods).
Second wearing I get straight up more of the synthetic amberwood. And almost something ”blue”. Kind of get the Sauvage/Bleu connections a few have mentioned…but just kind of.
Not at all as nice when the floral aspects are missing?
Not quite sure of this one… But for now it’s a keeper for when crowdpleasing is my mood of the day.
Thrifted an almost full bottle for 120€ - would not buy at full price.