RobGordon

Critics have often asked themselves to what extent Hans Zimmer can provide all the soundtracks that draw his name. Roja Dove has released 17[!] fragrances in 2017. I wouldn't be surprised if he released 18 fragrances in 2018. Keeping in mind that the conception of a really good fragrance can take as long as 3 years, the question inevitably arises: How does it end?

Either he has helper leashes and only gives his name to the results of third parties, which correspond to his yield claim, or not everything that shines in his flacon is as high quality as gladly cheered.

Of course the options are not grounds for exclusion. So both can apply without any problems. At 50ml for 500€ it is worthwhile, I think, to take a closer look. By the way, the movie to the soundtrack is by no means called "Aventus". This much I will tell you in advance.

The film or rather the fragrance that inspired the fragrance alchemist here is "Essence of the Park" (Profumo). In order not to let this shine through too clearly, the Carthusia Lily of the Valley simulated chord corpus was illuminated more from the ethereally tart, subtly octane side than from the ozonic front, as in the original. Here artemisia and thyme seem to be the bitter-maker. Also a leather violet would have been plausible here.

However, the substructure cannot be denied even by naming any fruit basket. Elysium seems to me to be layered "Essence of the Park" with a nasal gold/L shade. Two fragrances that can be perfectly layered, by the way. On the one hand, to draw the nose gold more to the unisex side. Or in the opposite case to make the "Essence of the Park" look more masculine.

Two fragrances that I basically like very much. That leaves us to classify the finish of this "Scent Island of the Blessed". I was very curious about what Mr. Dove will serve for dessert.

So I was all the more amazed when I was confronted with a theme that seems to be very hated in the world of perfume. I don't know how to describe it in a friendly way. Perhaps as a Bespoke scent for the Sultan of Ambroxan? The perfume stays on the ethereal-fruity side for a long time (over several hours). I would think he has a big, persistent heart. But when the fragrance is laid to rest, an impression of sauvage remains, as it smells after 10 hours of wearing it

This fragrance will never become an opulent leather, amber, etc.,... Bomb, as you might expect given the pyramid. The transition from heart note is gradual and, to my mind, unspectacular. Mr. Dove has definitely not entered new worlds with this fragrance, the price is probably a pioneering achievement. All in all from my personal point of view not a bad scent, I was a bit disappointed with the finish. Also from the performance. Both the Cologne Parfum and Parfum here have surprisingly little projection. The durability of the perfume is slightly better (about 7-8 hours). The perfume appears a bit rounder compared to the in-house fragrance concentration flanker as well as the Carthusia Essence.

Luca Maffei will bite his own butt when he learns how to make real money with partial plagiarism, if properly bagged. I not only like the template much better in terms of price, because it is a more successful basis.

To give a fragrance the name "Charlatan" is as positive for me as the baptism of a fragrance called "Égoïste". For me, the bottle is one of the most beautiful of the series, and yet this fragrance neither dazzles nor captivates me:

I'll start right away with the string result pear. Jasmine builds up in front of me like the plumage of a peacock. Directly on the skin hard on the border to the Indolian, in the projection already above it and therefore smells like a wet peacock. I must confess, Jasmine is one of my archenemies in the world of fragrances. And even in doses that are bearable for others, Jasmine is for me, as a rule, too much!

The rose, which I loved in the last fragrance of this series, doesn't stand a chance here at first, but later it continues to suffer from the dominance of jasmine. And not only the rose suffers, I do too. Because the combination of the bitter-chocolate vibes, which can be perceived very well for a while at a specific distance, together with the fading impression of jasmine form a connection that smells like freshly sprayed Ajax glass cleaner. A chord that can only be smelled just above the skin and makes me curse this charlatan already for the second time.

This middle is tough, unspectacular, the base takes hours to reach. I think it's great that this scent is still scratching the surface, but I already know what I'll be given at the end. This is the final chord of Gypsy Water (EdP). But here, the typical Byredo black amber chord with incense is omitted and is replaced by an almost smoked vanilla. The finish is conciliatory, but at this stage we have long since spoken of a purely skin-tight pleasure.

So I prefer to use the much more linear template without having to go through my personal scent hell Jasmine and whose scent molecules can still be refreshed with warm breathing air even after 8 hours and thus be perceived in the Gypsy Water Amber foundation. A tough guy!

However, it could prove to be an alternative for those who find Black Orchid too synthetic or too opulent.

Something that I had long wanted to make a statement about prices while working on this series, but always forgot. The prices on the manufacturer's website are given in Australian dollars. Converted you are in the 150€ class when buying these fragrances. The "Oud horse" is a little more expensive

There are moments on your own fragrance journey when you are proud of yourself for not having succumbed to a fragrance. I spent years skulking around Frederic Malle's pot "Portrait of a Lady." Reason finally won out

The fragrance was not versatile enough for me. It is literally greedy for noble robes and appropriate occasion. No fragrance for every day. And it had its unpleasant sides as well. For example, when his medicinal ointment accord shone through. I have a very similar experience of being tied up with "Harem Rose".

I wouldn't consider myself a rose lover or connoisseur, although I would at least not want to deny the ownership of Oud Satin Mood. A completely different track. It appeals to me surprisingly from the gourmand side, which is not self-evident, because I usually can't do anything with sweet scents. Another reason was the perfect balance between woody and floral tones.

I was often asked whether OSM was not too feminine for me. I like to try to explain that the moment when the scent drifts into the feminine is beyond the 15th hour and there is usually a shower in between.

I don't need 2 fragrances of this genre and the reason why I digress briefly is also due to the perfect balance. But of what? According to the paper form one could expect an amber rose at Harem Rose. At the same time others see similarities to POAL. Definitely not a typical amber rose. Incense is not an issue here.

I like to sit on the terrace in the evening, armed with a freshly applied fragrance. Even the slight differences in temperature to the interior, like to give a kick to the blossom work, which gives me very quickly an idea of the projection. And so it was with "Harem Rose".

The moment when the projection of this image hit my nose for the first time is an unforgettable moment. DKNY - "Fuel For Men" could also trigger this feeling of comfort. It is often the case that fragrances demand a waiting period, that alcohol has to evaporate or even unpleasant moments of creativity have to be faded out. Not here. The wheels in the thinking muscle between the ears, worked at full speed from then on.

What makes this smell so pleasing? Hello, it's just Rose. Given the restrictions of this natural ingredient, possibly even simulated. She smells perfect, no unpleasant accessories. What does perfect mean to me? Shaded so that it can be worn every day and doesn't require a special occasion. It has signature quality and, like "Amber Absolutely", game-changing attributes for its genre. Noses that cannot imagine wearing a rose scent should rub against this water. The versatility in daily use, stands with me clearly above an artificial course, if the
Basic tenor is coherent.

And there's not much movement here. The thing that captivates me is the musky rose to solve the mystery that has been bothering me for quite a while. It's like being patched up by a perfect rose that wants to sting you and the skin is thoroughly disinfected with a captivating musky shaving lotion and a touch of vetiver. And Rasei Fort has found this perfect balance between rose and musk here, that it doesn't need any special self-confidence to wear this fragrance even as a man who is already imagining at least his first midlife crisis. I would rather assume that the scent of many a lady is possibly too masculine.

But what about amber, benzoin, vanilla? Happy are those who can smell what they read. For me, these are prank results. In none of my wearing moments did they even come close to earning a mention. What remains on my skin is a piece of pale rose that has long given its best

To me, this fragrance suggests a relationship with him, I just never want to be approached on the street. The name is truly not unisex! Maybe that's what sometimes prevented me from buying POAL back then.

"Mr. Bojnokopff's Purple Hat," the name already suggests that what is being served here will be extremely niche

When I comment on scents, it always follows the same pattern. It starts with a nasal blind tasting. The chance that completely different pictures appear in your head is much higher than if you always keep an eye on the pyramid.

In a further run we check if the, or what from the pyramid seems plausible and if there is a delta, this is also discussed. Today I also want to share some notes with you, which were made in the first round:

What's the name of Pippi Longstocking's horse?; Mr. Nilsson?;
Note for headline: "Little Uncle seeks happiness!";
first horse, then shampooed, good smelling horse; still horse!!!;
shares chords with Maduro?! Is it that stable pineapple jasmine
Note from Cedrat Bois that makes me think of a horse or his dwelling here?;
slightly ozonated leather?; flowers with chlorine leather? (must be the abrasion from the saddle!);
Base inconspicuous, almost boring (= boring)

most characteristic scent:
Annie Leibovitz takes pictures of Jolly Jumper armed with a saddle, who is already a bit "schasaugert" (note: viennese for short-sighted, blind) and thinks he is tearing up a red apple. In reality he crushes his headgear. (I am aware that the name of the perfume inspires me!)

Of course I don't know what Rasei Fort the perfumer was thinking, but for me Mr. Bojnokopff is most likely a horse. It wouldn't be the Parfumo platform if you couldn't give an expert opinion on the breed. Is Jolly Jumper a breed?

I would not think of a gourmand or a semi-gourmand here. Lavender has a broad spectrum from highly aromatic to contemporary, this so-called "lavender chocolate" is, according to my impressions of scent, at best served to a mounted quadruped. Cocoa or chocolate? Not a trace! The stable-boy rather tries to bribe the maid for a rendezvous in the neighboring village with it.

This topic simply lasts too long. And then this discreet ozone-like leather saddle veil hangs protectively over flowers until it gives way to an unobtrusive, skin-tight feel-good base. Only it doesn't save the fragrance for my nose anymore. This scent could perhaps work better on ladies, although I am not squeamish about unisex scents.

The mention of Oud in the base took me quite by surprise. Really fecal doesn't seem like anything at all. Medically, anyway. It smells more like the animal than the digestion result and even if more in the front than in the base. Of the notes listed here, a mush of guaiac wood, as the dominant note, seems most likely to me. To test such a thing is of course fun, I don't want to wear it outside and also at home I have a veto

But the Aussies do not only have a heart for noses from Down Under. In a globalised world, you can also get the scents of this range in a Dutch online shop, which keeps extreme waiting times and customs inconveniences at bay.

I would like to mention this shop in a positive way (liannetioparfums.nl) Included 4 Ormonde Jayne fillings with my sample set order. The fact that I already knew them does not detract from the joy. At Fort & Manle itself, this sample set is currently sold out.

I was struck by the Australian niche label, by their smart flacons and the consistently good ratings here. I'm not sure if I'll comment on every fragrance in this series, but the collected scent impressions invite me to do so.

There is certainly no lack of amber scents. Amber Absolutely could prove to be a game-changer of this genre, for fragrance lovers who are still at war with it. I'm not a fan of ambry roses myself, but this scent teaches me better

According to the pyramid, you could expect a fruit basket at the beginning and even then you can do a lot of wrong for my nose. Authentic fruit, rarely succeeds in perfumery if the citrus department is not involved. Here, a duet of Play-Doh and machine oil welcomes me for a moment, while the alcohol takes flight. After a few seconds the irritation is over.

I like currant in every shape, fruit, leaf, everything is balm in my nose. But I am not sure which part of the plant should be responsible for this scent. The colleagues write about a sour contrast. This could just as well come from a bergamot. How does a natural plum smell in a world of scents that is completely enhanced by artificial aromas (plum wine, yoghurts,...) Plums usually only develop a more distinct aroma when they are boiled down or already overripe.

I can't for the life of me recognize plum here as such. An aromatic-fruity note, however, which is most likely to underline the greenish-tart flavour of currant leaf tickling in the nose. Anyone expecting the pulp of the currant is on the wrong track and belongs in the "Enchanted Forest". The reference fragrance for currant.

It has to be said that such fragile fragrances have a hard time asserting themselves against a base that is starting very early. In any case, I don't find the fruit impression disturbing here, doesn't trigger a synthetic alarm and it doesn't last too long anyway. The already mentioned green-acidic impression on the skin is also in this fragrance a well placed contrast generator

However, I lack the naming of a note, which is more or less conspicuous depending on the form of the day, and at the same time I would like to report a missing person. The rascal answers to the name cinnamon! Much of this goes into the projection together with a well filed rose, which does not let the scent drift off clearly into the ladies' camp at any stage. On the skin sometimes more, sometimes less noticeable.

Still more than in "Honos", but considerably less than in "Dolce di Giorno" or "Armani Privé - Ambre Eccentrico". The fact that cinnamon is not mentioned in the Pyramid could be due to the fact that it is part of the amber chord to elapse its existence.

The fragrance is currently listed as "resin sweet". I don't feel any sweetness at the current temperatures and it doesn't develop into a ricochet in women. The fruit cocktail in the front is well-considered cushioned and what comes from cinnamon into the projection, I would place in the category "men's cinnamon"

Cinnamon is not sweet by nature, only if you give it with sugar. It is slightly hot on the tongue. And spicy and aromatic in the nose. This one comes along as if it was stretched with desert sand and perfectly embeds itself into the amber-rose chord. At the same time it restrains the rose without becoming a nerve factor itself. If you mentally subtract the cinnamon, the result is not far from Tauers 2 "finish".

Therefore, this fragrance seems to me to be ideal for noses that still fail at Tauers 2s, are looking for a discreetly amber rose for every day, or as a beginner's fragrance in the world of amber fragrances that do without cloves.
Office or opera, on the skin or in projection. Amber Absolutely always cuts a good figure. Even if I was not yet allowed to wear it in every season, it seems to me to be designed for every season.

The test vials are made of glass, very praiseworthy, the dimensions of the spray nozzle are very narrow. It takes a few more strokes to achieve the equivalent of a familiar bottle. The rating could be even higher, but I like to put scent impressions in relation to each other and in this series 2 more scents shine, which I like at least as well or even better at the moment. Nevertheless this one already triggers a buying stimulus for me.