Salva

The frequency of my reviews has been continuously decreasing over time. This is partly due to my own laziness, to be honest, in taking the time to write a few more lines. And on the other hand, and this is the main reason, I only give greater attention to fragrances that I really like. In my case, these are those that I rate with at least a 9. For all others, I gladly make use of the short statement function. And the more I test, the lower the likelihood of encountering a fragrance that is worth a review. Especially since I feel like I already know all the "great" and "good" ones (at least I think so, but I also know that this isn't really the case). However, there are always discoveries that put me in a positive mood and show that testing and waiting are worthwhile. And since I came across this fragrance "out of nowhere," it is worth my while to write a review in addition to the statement.

Ralph Lauren is certainly known to most men, especially through the classic polo shirts with the well-known brand logo on the left chest. This was the case for me until not too long ago. I became aware during my research that the label also (logically) produces many other clothing items and products. In addition to current fashion, one can find a very broad portfolio of lifestyle articles, such as offerings for furniture, decorations, or games. And of course, the brand also releases fragrances.
Among men's fragrances, the green-spicy classic from 1978 certainly stands out, which bears the uncomplicated name "Polo (Eau de Toilette) | Ralph Lauren." No less good in my eyes and also worth mentioning is the 1992 classic "Safari for Men (Eau de Toilette) | Ralph Lauren," which presents a wonderful herb-green-herbaceous scent with a soapy shaving water vibe.
In addition, there is currently a series called "Polo Earth," which includes four fragrances. Three from this series ("Polo Earth - Antilles Vetiver | Ralph Lauren," "Polo Earth - Moroccan Neroli | Ralph Lauren," and "Polo Earth - Provencial Sage | Ralph Lauren") were released this year, but the fragrance reviewed here is from last year. And I am very taken with it, as it is a truly wonderful perfume that I discovered by chance in the Düsseldorf Karstadt and would like to present in more detail.

Polo Earth is declared here as a unisex fragrance, and in my eyes, this is 100% true. It begins with a delightful freshness of various hesperid fruits; a conglomerate of citron (Cedrat), bergamot, petitgrain, and mandarin. The top note thus represents a wonderfully fresh-citrusy start, which contains a subtly fruity component with a minimal green accord due to the petitgrain and mandarin, which is particularly typical for lemon petitgrain.
This refreshing start is joined by a bright floral heart, in which the orange blossom holds the scepter for my nose. This blossom resonates throughout the entire duration and remains somewhat concealed in the background, but upon closer inspection or analysis of the fragrance, one can recognize the floral heart of the scent very well. Characteristic of the orange blossom, besides its fresh citrus aroma, is its vanilla-like sweet scent, of which there is little to nothing to detect in this fragrance for my nose.
To the base, the perfume receives a clean and slightly soapy accord, which I attribute to the musk indicated here. This type of musk note is particularly recognizable in the fragrances of the brand Narciso Rodriguez, which gives me a feeling of total cleanliness and I find it excellent.

Due to its composition, Polo Earth is an excellent candidate for a signature scent that can be worn effortlessly by both men and women all year round, even though it would certainly shine particularly well in warmer weather. The longevity is to be expected in the medium range for a fragrance of this type; that is, on my skin, I perceive it for about 4-5 hours. As for the sillage, it is also found in the foreseeable area. It projects well in the first hour before it slowly but surely retreats. The bottle is quite classic and fits well in the hand. It has an appealing elongated rectangular shape with a transparent glass bottle, whose cap is made of wood and features a white sticker with a green inscription of the name as well as the typical brand logo on the front.

I can recommend a test to anyone who, like me, enjoys cologne-like fragrances and has no issues with bright floral notes. It is indeed a wonderful, summery refreshing, friendly perfume that really makes one look forward to spring and summer. It conveys to me, in some way, a morning walk through the forest in late spring, where the first flowers are sprouting and in full bloom, while the wind blows through various trees and time seems to stand still... Where the air and the sun rays are warm, while one strolls past mossy cedars that sway gently and emit robust woody notes...

In any case, I am very much looking forward to when the first rays of sunshine peek out so that this treasure can be used. Because besides the Pour Homme from dear Schallhoerer, this perfume is my personal discovery of the year, even though it, as mentioned, was already released in 2022. And regardless of that, I simply wish for sunshine again, as I am anything but a winter child...

In this sense, I wish everyone a good slide into the new year and all the best for 2024, especially lots of health! And hopefully plenty of sunshine very soon...

Thank you for reading!

Alfred Dunhill Ltd., a British luxury goods company named after its founder Alfred Dunhill, was founded in the late 19th century and initially offered various accessories for vehicles in the early years of motoring (from 1904), before opening an exclusive tobacco shop in London under the brand in 1907 and evolving into a manufacturer of tobacco pipes three years later.

After the founder stepped back, his son Alfred Henry Dunhill took over the company completely. He had already completed an apprenticeship as a craftsman in his father's saddlery and harness factory in 1893.
With the expansion into the tobacco trade, a new, successful business area emerged, which was crowned in 1927 by the development of the legendary pocket lighter "Dunhill Unique".
The in-house cigarette brand that originated from the tobacco business was sold to "British American Tobacco" (one of the largest tobacco companies in the world) in 1967, after they had lost the rights to production themselves.

Today, the label offers men's outerwear, luxury leather accessories, watches, and perfumes. Although the fragrances, according to my research, do not contain tobacco, they often give off a tobacco-smoky and woody impression. In addition to these compositions that are more suited to the classic man, the brand's wide range also includes distinctly "more modern" and sweet examples that men of today's generations might prefer.

In 1934, the company launched a men's grooming series called "Dunhill’s Fragrances for Men", featuring shaving and fragrance waters. The fragrance I am reviewing here is therefore considered the first perfume launched by the brand.

Dunhill for Men - Classic Blend opens with a herb-fresh top note, featuring a robustly spicy clary sage. This plant is characterized by a herbaceous-spicy, lavender-like scent, which, together with that lavender, provides this herbaceous-spicy yet overall fresh start.
The top note, in my opinion, lasts quite a long time before a distinctly recognizable floral-fresh carnation joins in, bringing a gentle but noticeable sharpness. This carnation is dominant in the heart of the fragrance and is responsible for the floral aspect of the perfume. Personally, I cannot identify the rose listed here, for example.
In the base, Dunhill for Men - Classic Blend achieves its woody and subtly leathery part, particularly through the cedarwood, which gives it a "pencil-like" deep aroma.

Due to its composition, I see the perfume as easily wearable in every season and for any occasion, except in the height of summer, as it definitely embodies the aura of a signature scent. In terms of concentration, it is marketed as an Eau de Cologne, which does not have a (negative) impact on its H&S. The perfume has a satisfactory average longevity of about 5 hours on my skin; the sillage is moderate to subtle. You will be well perceived for the first 1 - 1.5 hours before it becomes more intimate for the rest of the time.

Older perfumes from past days have always fascinated me due to their history, tradition, etc. This perfume is no exception.

Dunhill for Men - Classic Blend is, in my opinion, an excellent fresh-herb-spicy and woody-aromatic scent that I purchased in the vintage version on a well-known online marketplace and enjoy wearing very much.

A classic men's fragrance that exudes a certain charm for me, especially due to its age and the classically designed bottle, and I can recommend it to anyone who likes this type of perfume.

And with my highly esteemed and experienced colleague Gold, I do not agree in this case, as I believe this perfume is not just suitable for men over 50.

Of course, I respect every opinion, and perfume is always a matter of taste. But if you feel good, you wear what you want.

I thank everyone who has followed my words!

Sometimes there are these experiences. You receive a fragrance package, and among the enclosures, there’s one that you are particularly excited about because you’ve had it on your radar for a while. Just like recently: I took a package from Parfuma Rieke out of the mailbox, quickly ran up the stairs, opened the door and slammed it shut, with my coat and shoes still on, straight into the kitchen, tore open the envelope, took out the samples, and quickly brought my nose to each spray head for the first impression... Who doesn’t know that feeling... Surely many of us have experienced something similar...

And there it was: The sample labeled "Parfums MDCI - Chypre Palatin" - I was captivated by it at the very first sniff...
____________

I have always had a soft spot for oriental fragrances; especially for those that do not come with animalic stinky oud, but shine with other notes. As for Chypres, I only discovered my affinity for them through Parfumo, as I was completely unaware of this direction before my Parfumo days as a novice. However, I do appreciate the classic structure of a hesperidic top, floral heart, and mossy base.

Now we have "Chypre Palatin," a fragrance that masterfully combines these two directions. And it does so so well that I have been unable to pull my nose away from the sample for days out of sheer enthusiasm.
Behind the creation of this perfume is Bertrand Duchafour, who has become known for both mainstream and niche fragrances. His first signed perfume, "Amber&Lavender" for Jo Malone, was launched in 1995. He subsequently created fragrances for a variety of perfume houses, including Penhaligon's, Acqua di Parma, Comme des Garcons, Givenchy, and Christian Dior. Looking at his listed works here, it’s noticeable that I am more than fond of his oriental fragrances, such as Amouage's "Dia Man" and "Jubilation XXV Man."

To get to the composition of Chypre Palatin, I want to mention right at the beginning that I consider this fragrance a masterpiece. It brims with complexity, richness, and fullness. It seems as if B. Duchafour is at the peak of his creative powers, which explains this exceedingly multifaceted and fascinating work of art.

The perfume begins with a lush green galbanum note, which doesn’t surprise me much after learning about the perfumer, especially since he has stated that his very first impressive olfactory experience was with Chanel's classic "No. 19." The green galbanum is refreshed here with a juicy, meaty-fruity clementine note, and additionally, an amber-like or balsamic labdanum is added. Thus, the perfume showcases its complexity right from the start, which speaks to its genius.
In the heart, a distinctly perceptible plum note joins in for my nose. This pushes the green into the background, as I no longer perceive the galbanum after a few minutes. The fragrance remains fruity and acquires floral accords that, in my eyes, develop the scent into a unisex direction, which also speaks for the fragrance.
Towards the base, the fruity-floral heart leaves the stage, and the perfume gains its oriental touch. A fantastic mélange of vanilla, styrax, and tolu balsam creates a pleasantly balsamic-sweet aroma with a hint of cinnamon and a wonderfully vanilla note. Ultimately, I also perceive a touch of a greenish-herbaceous accord in the base - subtly in the background - which I attribute to the typical oakmoss found in Chypres.

Regarding wearability, I note that the fragrance is suitable for every season (except in the height of summer), but is preferred for the transitional season in autumn or cooler spring. The longevity is not quite in the upper range on my skin, lasting about 6-7 hours, and I see the sillage as rather moderate/average. However, this is actually to my personal liking.

I do not categorize Chypre Palatin as belonging to either the green or the oriental side. Neither direction truly predominates in my eyes. It is a sensational fragrance with a varied development - a green-oriental perfume that is velvety, magnificent, and wild at the same time. A decidedly masculine scent that can also be understood as a particularly sensual women's fragrance.

"Chypre Palatin" seems to me to be pleasantly out of time. My senses are in turmoil, so mysterious is all of this. Nostalgic, opulent ball nights merge with cat-like wild grace and flirt with the fusion of feminine and masculine scent notes on the skin. Male animality and female lust have been perfectly united and masterfully staged. And even though I currently rate it a 9.5, it may well be that in the future, with further wear, I might reach for the magical 10...

"Chypre Palatin" - A reverie and stroll in brocade and velvet.

[...]

A heartfelt thank you to Rieke for the sample!

And thanks to everyone for accompanying my words!

1978

A year that, olfactorily speaking, is certainly not insignificant for lovers of classic men's fragrances today. For in that year, several fragrances from the men's perfumery hit the market that still resonate with many people today. In particular, three perfumes can be highlighted that have shaped several generations up to the present day. Fragrances that could not be more different.

On one hand, there is the opulent oriental bombshell from our Karl Lagerfeld, namely "Lagerfeld Classic EdT." On the other hand, the green-spicy and smoky-core US scent from across the ocean, namely Ralph Lauren's "Polo EdT." And last but not least, THE aromatic fougère par excellence. THE reference when talking about the said genre: "Azzaro pour Homme EdT."

I don't think I'm stretching it too far when I claim that this phenomenal perfume is definitely the flagship of Loris Azzaro.
The designer and perfumer, born in Tunisia to Sicilian-Tunisian parents, founded his company in Paris in 1965 and was known for his extravagant and eye-catching evening gowns, dedicated himself exclusively to women's fashion until 1992. Well-known female personalities from the film and entertainment industry were among his clientele, such as Brigitte Bardot or Sophia Loren. It wasn't until the early 1990s that he began designing men's fashion.

The first perfume released under his name is the now-discontinued "Azzaro Couture EdT" (1975), an opulent and voluminous chypre for women.
However, with "Azzaro Pour Homme EdT," he has certainly secured his place in perfume history. Because what the three perfumers Gérard Anthony, Martin Heiddenreich, and Richard Wirtz conjured up here has probably never been seen in the genre before.

The opening of this "Azzaro pour Homme" is, for my nose, an incredibly fascinating intoxication feast from a primarily aromatic-spicy trio consisting of anise, nutmeg, and caraway, which absolutely takes center stage here, with anise being the leader of this trio. This trio is accompanied in the background by a hint of hesperidic aroma, which can be traced back to bergamot. While it gives the spice a slight touch of fresh, crisp zest, the top note is a spice explosion that transports my nose to other spheres. Delightfully captivating, masculine, and for me, even in a special way, sensual and seductive.

The aforementioned fougère accord is particularly influenced by a herbal-spicy lavender aroma, which is simultaneously enhanced by the clary sage, which is also said to have a lavender-like scent. This fougère character shapes the perfume all the way to the base, while the spices soon leave the stage.
In the base, one is offered a woody-mossy aura that has a slight leather touch. Nevertheless, the woodiness is prominently represented here and rounds off the scent dry.

In summer, it might be somewhat unsuitable for me, especially due to the spices and woody notes, but in all other seasons, it can be worn without any issues. And regardless of the occasion, this perfume definitely has the charisma and presence for a signature scent.

The current version that I am reviewing here has very good longevity. I perceive it on my skin for about 6-7 hours, and the sillage is also impressive. It is quite a strong perfume, where a few spritzes are completely sufficient.

In its creation, a completely new technique was probably at the forefront, namely the combination of 320 different ingredients. Most of the ingredients are said to have a natural origin. Whether this is true, I cannot and do not want to judge, as that would be unprofessional and, given the genius of this unique perfume, irrelevant to me anyway.

The scent "Azzaro Pour Homme EdT" is timeless for me, still modern and, in an incredibly wonderful way, also calming. It is a great cocktail of fresh-spicy, aromatic, and woody tones. A perfect harmony for the cultivated masculinity. A great synthesis of various olfactory elements for the refined and complete gentleman, who defies the past and fashion trends. A gem that has expanded my fragrance collection some time ago, and which everyone should at least have smelled.

One that carries all the influences of the Mediterranean and the biographical background of Loris Azzaro within it.

Italian elegance, French chic, and Arabic sensuality.


I thank all readers!

Trussardi

Behind this Italian-sounding name is Dante Trussardi, a Milanese leather goods manufacturer who founded the glove factory "Sosir" near Bergamo in northern Italy in 1911. The target audience included somewhat wealthier individuals and those belonging to the upper class. Very quickly, Trussardi's leather gloves became a status symbol and were particularly widespread in the USA and Great Britain.

After Dante's grandson, Nicola Trussardi, took over the company in the early 1960s, he not only designed the still-existing greyhound company logo but also expanded the portfolio in the 1970s with suitcases, bags, and wallets. The first Milan boutique was opened in 1976 and quickly attracted a large clientele. Nicola's intention was to make the company a globally recognized brand. Consequently, starting in the 1980s, he designed the interiors of airplanes, created motorcycles, and vehicle interiors for Alfa Romeo. The rise to the top continued, and in the 1990s, the company expanded into Asia.

Even though difficult times arose in the 2000s, the company has maintained its good reputation internationally to this day. And similar to many other fashion labels, they also launched perfumes.

This "Uomo" from 1983 is considered the first men's fragrance of the brand and is an unmistakable perfume that is definitely worth smelling at least once. What a brilliant scent it truly is.

At the start, you get a powerful burst of fresh-aromatic-spicy variety from thyme, basil, and juniper. I particularly perceive the aromatic and intensely sharp scent of thyme as well as the autumnal, slightly peppery aroma of basil in the top note.
This perfume is so multi-layered and complex that I cannot even begin to guess one of the heart notes. While floral aspects like rose or carnation are highlighted, they are not detectable to my nose.
But in the base, you get a kind of "warmer" old-school leather with a distinct woody-dry-mossy component from oak moss, labdanum, and patchouli. I can well imagine that real oak moss was used here.

In my opinion, the "Uomo" is a kind of signature scent for the colder season that can be worn on any occasion. It is characterized by very good longevity on my skin (about 7-8 hours) and a decent projecting sillage.

Right from the first sniff at the sprayer, this perfume fascinated me, because when you compare it to the current version, you will find that the 1983 version plays in a completely different league. And it is pleasing that this perfume is still available on eBay (sometimes even for relatively moderate prices).

Even though it was released in the early 1980s and one might assume otherwise, I find that it doesn't have too much in common in its aura with other famous classics of that decade, such as YSL's "Kouros" (1981) or Chanel's "Antaeus" (1981), whose animalic notes do not appeal to me 100%.

This Italian is absolutely charming, refined, unmistakable, and unique. Perhaps I would only mention Hugo Boss' "Boss Number One" (1985) to hint at the direction "Uomo" is going. Because it exudes a similar kind of magical power to me in a certain way.

So, this is one for lovers of masculine, rugged, and charismatic scents.


Thank you for reading!