Salva

Salva

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Salva 3 years ago 35 26
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
From novel to perfume - An extremely successful creation
Bel Ami - Beautiful Friend

How does a name like that come about?

The name is derived from Guy de Maupassant's novel of the same name, published in 1885, which recounts the professional and social rise of a non-commissioned officer in 19th century Paris.

An uneducated, egotistical, and nearly penniless gentleman named Duroy meets his former buddy Forestier, who works for a newspaper. Thanks to his friend, Duroy also gets a job at this newspaper editor's office. He quickly discovers, however, that he is less talented for writing, and so seeks his "fortune" in other ways.

Not only the job, but also the acquaintance with the higher society Paris' has to owe Duroy his friend. Soon he is called "Bel Ami"; his nickname by which he becomes known. Meanwhile, the fact that after Forestier's death he takes his widow as his wife and continues to have various affairs with other ladies reflects his mischievous and opportunistic character.

His second marriage to the newspaper editor's daughter finally opens up his rise to the top of society.

[...]

Well, what does one expect from a fragrance so named? Looking at the protagonist of the novel's one might think that this perfume is a v.a. very seductive fragrance. But I personally did not expect anything, to be honest. Because the testing of this fragrance I have put off very long before me, because the leather listed here always held me up; does it namely not belong to the notes that I prefer.

When I finally ordered a bottling here some time ago, I tested it extensively, of course. And he has surprised me quite, and in the positive sense.

He is classified here as leathery-spicy and leather is not necessarily one of my favorite notes, but fortunately it is integrated in this fragrance only as a supporting actor; at least I empfind it so.

For me, it starts very fresh-aromatic with hesperidic notes such as the bergamot and lemon as well as a first tart-spicy accord, which I attribute to the sage.
After a short time, more spices join them, which push back the initial citrus notes and take center stage. As it progresses, however, I find these to be gentler and more pleasant than at the start; not pungent or prickly on the nose.
The leather I perceive if, then only to the base, but there also only discreetly in the background. Here press namely green moss and vetiver out, which give the fragrance a slightly woody and chypre-like character, which I appreciate and like so much.

[...]

For the summer he is v.a. because of the spices mMn not so suitable, but I see him in all other seasons easily wearable. Preferably, however, perhaps in autumn and on cooler spring days.

The durability can be seen with about 7 h at 5-6 spritzers on my skin very, and a fragrance cloud I perceive on myself the first 2 h also.

[...]

Conclusion:

Even if for me personally still Terre d'Hermès EdT as the best fragrance of the house, I like the Bel Ami EdT also very much.

He is a masculine distinctive, classically influenced, spicy aromatic fragrance with light chyprean tones, in which, fortunately, the leather is not so much the focus.

In fact, it even radiates a slightly sensual seductive aura, which I perceived before I even dealt with the background regarding the naming. This seductive note, however, is very subtle and restrained in its overall appearance. It is not at all intrusive, but very polite and civilized.

And presumably Duroy probably conquered the ladies that way too...

[...]

Thanks for reading!
26 Comments
Salva 3 years ago 42 24
9
Bottle
6
Sillage
8
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
When you smell like angels...
What are angels?
What do they look like?
What do they eat?
What do they drink?
What do they smell like?

[...]

Even as a child, I always found angels fascinating and kept asking myself these questions.

I remember my elementary school days when I drew my very first angel in second grade, presented it to my homeroom teacher and was proud as Oscar.
Even today as an adult I still deal with this topic.

Now in the teachings of the monotheistic Abrahamic religions, angels are said to be spirit beings in human form, created by God and sent to man as his messenger. I would not call myself a religious person, but I would like to believe this (and I do). Because believing I am somehow already...

[...]

When I smell fragrances for the first time, I often associate them with something specific. With this Prada Amber Pour Homme EdT the other day, it was those very angels; this scent is so pure, clean, fresh, sublime and noble that I immediately associated it with angels.

The house of Prada in particular is, after all, known for these kinds of clean fragrances. The Italian fashion and leather goods company based in Milan was already founded in 1913 by Mario Prada, but the big breakthrough succeeded in principle only at the end of the 70s, when the granddaughter of the founder, Miuccia Prada, took over the company. With her, the company managed to gain a proper foothold worldwide and make a name for itself.

Fragrances but one brought only from 2004 on the market, and with the simple name "Prada" first of all a fragrance for the ladies (in principle, the ladies version of this Pour Homme's, although this goes in a clearly different direction).
The Prada Amber Pour Homme EdT, on the other hand, is the first men's fragrance from the house, which appeared in 2006. And he is for me a real angel fragrance blessed with pure class...

[...]

This fragrance is so simple and plain, but at the same time so fascinatingly beautiful, that I am really excited and wonder why I did not test and discover it earlier. Especially now in spring / summer, when it is not too warm, it unfolds its wonderful aura and its famoso aroma like anything else.

The designation "Amber" apparently irritates many, when they test this fragrance, this note is not even listed in the pyramid. At first glance, understandable, but if you deal with the perfumer Daniela Andrier (a German who worked for Chanel, among others) and deal with their thoughts and visions, then you realize that the designation has been chosen deliberately. Here the note is because of the other just differently interpreted and not so warm, as one may know it otherwise, but in whole rather fresh-energy-sensual.
But apart from that: if a fragrance pleases the nose, everything else should not matter...

[...]

The fragrance does not have a great exciting progression, but this bothers me zero. In particular, this distinguishes this fabulous fragrance mMn.

He starts right ultra fresh with light hesperidischen chords, before he gets his characteristic fresh powdery soap note. This is namely his main essence and he also keeps until the base, before there - for my opinion - a delicate touch of sensual oriental notes dazugesellt.

Surprisingly, he also knows with a strong durability to convince. Often fragrances of this kind have known weaknesses in this regard, but not this one. On my skin, he keeps a good 7 h, and the sillage I take in the first 2-3 h also well perceived.

[...]

Conclusion:

That he is somehow in the shadow of L'Homme EdT from the house of Prada, I find the fragrance is not at all just. But if self-absorbed, narcissistically inclined and equipped with a large portion of ADHD so-called. Influencer the L'Homme EdT for years over the green Klee praise and gradually all the world parrots each other, this is not a big surprise.

Be that as it may, I personally should not care. I find the Prada Amber Pour Homme EdT beautiful. A in my eyes high quality, wonderfully elegant and noble smelling, clean, powdery soap scent with a punch of the Orient, if you will.

Distinctive simplicity and individual simplicity combined in pure elegant class.

A fragrance from angels for angels...

[...]

Thank you for reading!
24 Comments
Salva 3 years ago 28 19
10
Bottle
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
A classic cologne - And yet very different
What are the characteristics of a classic colognes? Fresh, citrusy and rather short shelf life. So most would probably describe a cologne roughly.

But there are also Colognes, which are interpreted quite differently, such as this Cologne Intense from the house Houbigant, to which I would like to write a few sentences.

[...]

Houbigant is a historically significant house from Paris, whose foundation dates back as early as 1775. However, its current headquarters are in the city-state of Monaco.

Jean François Houbigant, the founder of the company, had in particular perfumes, bridal arrangements as well as gloves produced. To make his shop not look so bleak, he hung next to the door still a painted sign with a flower basket, whereby his shop quickly received the name "A la Corbeille de Fleurs" (Engl.: In the flower basket).

His products were very much in demand and popular, especially among the well-to-do people. Among the customers is said to have included Queen Marie Antoinette as well as Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte.
Further large personalities, which served themselves with this house, were at its time probably the Queen Victoria OF England as well as the Russian emperor Zar Alexander the third.

[...]

The Cologne Intense is not a classical Cologne in the sense, as one knows it otherwise so vllt. It is a wonderful and fantastically refined with dark notes submitted Cologne, what I had not previously under the nose.

The fragrance begins indeed citrus-aromatic, however, I take right at the beginning first herbaceous and in the further course slightly smoky-spicy nuances perceive. But here really dominates the slightly smoky in conjunction with a spicy touch the fragrance.
Interestingly, towards the base green chords dissolve these tones of incense, lavender and tarragon and mix with the still in the background to smell aromatic citrus notes to a bitter-tart and mossy classic gentleman fragrance.

One quickly realizes that this fragrance is not an ordinary cologne, but in fact, in my opinion - due to this unique composition - a superbly exciting classic fragrance.

The designation Intense I attribute to these darker notes, but in terms of H&S I personally can not speak of an intense character, but this does not bother me at all. On my skin it lasts about 4-5h, this is quite enough for me; the sillage is clearly perceptible in the first hour, then the fragrance becomes rather skin.

In my eyes, the fragrance is wonderful throughout the year and on any occasion easily wearable, preferred vllt. rather in spring and autumn and on not quite so hot summer days.

The bottle made of limited porcelain also seems inconceivably high quality and reflects the classic aura of the fragrance very well, as I find.

[...]

Conclusion:

For all lovers of Colognes, I can highly recommend this fragrance. In my eyes, the Cologne Intense is a brilliant fragrance, which you probably do not get to smell in this form too often.

It is a precious, subtle, noble and classically chic men's cologne enriched with modern elements. I ordered it blindly and was immediately very taken.

[...]

Thank you for reading!
19 Comments
Salva 3 years ago 26 19
9
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
10
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
My heritage at the edge of the forest
Look, the house at the edge of the forest;
it speaks to you: come here, I've got something!
I creep slowly towards it, because I must; something in me says, Go, do that!

Of the people who lived there, you read they disappeared without a trace;
of the inhabitants, a few miles down the forest to the south, one hears they suffered from incurable mental war wounds.

Industrious they were, industrious they were, upright they were; gift they never received.
The husband, the wife, the daughter; a unit as one wishes;
in these and those times they say they were lynched.

No one has ever entered this house again, yet I dare, for my inner voice will prove me right;
no one has ever come near this house again, yet I now set my mind to it.

I stroll to the door, put my hand on the handle, it feels eerie;
a blustery wind blows, autumn leaves fall from the trees, the branches dance.

I'm on the handle, wondering:
When? When are you going to go in?

Seconds pass, I'm thinking;
Minutes pass, I feel like someone is paralyzing me.
[...]

Now I'm inside, closing the door behind me; I look around, a lot of reading; Brecht, Böll, Heine, Hesse; the crème de la crème of German literary delicacy.

Aiming at the fireplace, next to it on a stool an envelope, what's in it I wonder; I open the envelope, a will I see.

The house is now mine, and in the cupboard by the window is a gift.
I should open it, should I really?
I open it, and am noticeably nervous.

A package, elongated narrow, gray with a red emblem: Héritage, Guerlain;
i unwrap the contents, spray myself; balm for the wounded soul at the moment.

I feel at home, I feel safe; Héritage I read, my French tells me heritage; and this one is just for me!

Your bottle, golden-orange-brown, like the leaves in the forest. And golden is your aura.

A voice whispers in my ear: Take it, it's yours! Be with thee in the pure!
You alone, with Héritage say no to all!

Go home, drink wine, be alone, with heritage in attendance.

[...]

Guerlain Héritage - In refer to you as the fragrance of life. And yes, that's how I mean it.
You are so unique, so wonderful, like the painting Mona Lisa's.

Your purist-pure Guerlain'sche freshness, starting with dreamlike citrus-lavender mix, which is discreetly accompanied by a soft-spicy accord.
A subtle spice blend of coriander and pepper, which holds back but distinguished, so as not to take the scepter away from the fresh Guerlain spirit.

Your transformation in the base to my very favorite earthy patchouli, which is once again refined with a touch of vanilla and thereby slightly orientalized.

That you accompany me 5-6h without jumping around big and looking for attention is a blessing; a blessing for lovers of fragrances like you. A being of a gentleman Guerlains, as I am accustomed.

You are so noble-classic that the attribute classic is already not enough. You are so discreet and mysterious, so refined and expressive.

What more can I say? Nothing! Just stand up, spray on and enjoy!

[...]


Conclusion:

You are not just a perfume that I put on. No, you are an attitude to life, an attitude to life, a lifestyle.

If I had to choose 5 fragrances, you would be there!

Héritage - My heritage at the edge of the forest

[...]

Thank you for reading!
19 Comments
Salva 3 years ago 42 20
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
9.5
Scent
Translated Show original Show translation
A charismatic mafioso with heart and soul
Santos - What is the first thing you intuitively think of when you hear a name like that? At Brazil, football, samba, Tscha tscha tscha?!
Of tanned, well-trained, always good-humored people?!

Well, is vllt. obvious, Santos is after all an important port city on the sugar loaf. And indeed, the name refers to Brazil, but "only" to a Brazilian pilot named Santos Dumont. But basically to the world's first pilot's watch with the same name, Santos Cartier, which Santos Dumont helped to produce.

[...]

The French jewelry and watch manufacturer, which was founded by Louis-François Cartier in Paris back in 1847, is one of my favorite brands among other French brands. Not only can they fragrances quite outstanding, their history can also be seen.

The handmade jewelry pieces were at that time in great demand among the population and so, for example, the then French Empress Eugénie had the pleasure of being the happy owner of various pieces. After the rapid success, the company took with the time watches in his assortment.

As the years went by, Cartier's sons joined the company and the family managed to open their first branch in London in 1902. It wasn't too long before word of the company's reputation spread among the British. Consequently, one became the court supplier of the British royal house.

Rapidly one expanded in the direction of Russia as well as the USA and attained at the beginning of the 20th century world-wide large admittingness and acknowledgment.

After the death of Louis-François Cartier and his sons, the company disintegrated and has belonged to the Swiss Richemont Group since 1997.

[...]

Parfumtechnisch stands the house for my opinion a little (unjustly) in the shadow of its French "brothers" Dior or Chanel, so at least my impression. Because I personally find the fragrances of Cartier at least just as noble and classically beautiful.

With this Santos EdT, I recently got to know one that I was fascinated by the first time I smelled it. It opens ultra masculine and is very aromatic-spicy to begin with; while the spices are prominent here, led by nutmeg and pepper, they are backed up with a certain freshness. I attribute the freshness to the hesperidic accords.

Until the base, however, this mysterious fresh-spicy aura maintains the upper hand. The aroma that this perfume exudes, I find irresistible and seductive. And what additionally makes this fragrance so brilliant for me is its progression, because towards the base it changes to a soft-soft and slightly woody gentleman. Here I perceive a mix of sandalwood cedar, which is framed by a touch of amber accord.

[...]

To me, this fragrance seems best suited for fall and slightly cooler spring days. With about 5-6h on mine it has a decent endurance.

Compared to other early 80s published classics such as YSL Kouros or Chanel Antaeus is the Santos EdT but no so-called. "Powerhouse fragrance", as I find (all three appeared in the same year). On the contrary, despite the initial strongly distinctive notes (or probably because of it) he stands out by a charming and very charismatic charisma, the wearer and the environment (at least mMn) does not scare off and frighten away.

[...]


Conclusion:

Santos EdT seems to me at first glance (or smell) from the outside like a mobster, but in truth he is at heart a noble, well-read and classically-chic gentleman with heart and soul.

Immediately after testing a bottle has moved in; not only because I appreciate Cartier in itself immensely and love, but primarily because the fragrance has grabbed me immediately and I have been very taken.

Cartier - Alone the simple and plain logo with the cursive font looks mMn very noble.

An extremely intoxicating and sexy-seductive fragrance after French chic, this Santos EdT.

[...]


Thanks for reading!
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