ScentFan

If I had to explain to a space alien what perfume is, I'd hand over a bottle of Bal à Versailles. Learning Jean Desprez created three versions to be worn at once, I hunted them down. The tall one was a gift I’ll always treasure—the famous EdT flacon. Not wanting to open it yet, I obtained a smaller version. Now I can simultaneously wear the vintage Parfum, EdT and EdC as Desprez intended. Surely he designed it with potentates, rock stars, multibillionaires in mind, wanting its wearers to be as drenched in the glories of scent as they were in the glories of life. I can’t imagine what garden Jean Desprez got his flowers from because these are regal blooms, blended to create an instantly hypnotic, luxurious, and indolic powerhouse of jasmine, rose, and orange blossom at first, brightened with neroli, bergamot and other citruses — cassia and rosemary keeping the mix from going over the edge. Soon the heart kicks in with patchouli and sandalwood, primarily. Other florals enter, Vetiver adding sophistication. Sultry amber, musk and civet anchor the base, with balsam, vanilla and cedarwood playing supporting roles. Yet, individual notes don’t stay prominent in awareness. They become a symphony. And this is just the parfum. Put all three on my arm and Deprez’s magic is revealed. BaV becomes complex, intriguing, unpeggable, unique. I understand why this was Michael Jackson’s signature scent, why Liz Taylor adored it. Little chance of walking up to most department store fragrance counters and leaving smelling like this. I’m glad to have discovered it later in life, after learning it’s okay to do as we please, including smelling like a potentate not only at the opera, but at the supermarket, too.

p.s. This applies to the vintages. The new version is pure swill, IMO.

Hubby bought Thirty Three, didn't like it, and gave it to me to sell, exchange or give away. Luckily I tried it before doing that or I wouldn't own this marvel. I found its beauty unexpected, like splatters of paint on a canvas deemed high art. I mean, rubber? That note took some getting used to. Damascus steel (I assume that's not a flinty rose)? Fortunately, the rubber calms down, its place taken by beautiful roses, (my favorite floral next to Jasmine) and by Iris. In the base is Patchouli, my 2nd favorite wood (next to Sandalwood), and there’s an oud this gal can love, possibly because of its maturity. Also Heliotropin. Hmm ... what’s that again? Pulling it from my trusty perfumery notes kit ... ah, yes, cherry/vanilla. I can smell every one of these notes: the sultry black pepper, the zest of candied mandarin, the astringency of white tea, the flowers. To me they blend to paint a picture of a knight astride his horse, decorated with a floral garland made by his lady love. There’s the smell of horseshoes fresh from the anvil, of a newly-sanded wooden lance and its sharpened blade. Someone hands him a mug of mulled wine. For me, Thirty Three is beauty and adventure in a bottle. I wear it when I want to feel more alive.