Schallhoerer
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Schallhoerer
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Between flowers and sea
I would classify the Eden Roc as floral-aquatic. Like most of Dior's fragrances from the Privee series, Eden-Roc is marketed as unisex.
The sprayer of my bottle is unfortunately not 100% satisfactory. Although also a fine spray comes out, but this can not be fine-tuned so well with pressure. Probably my sprayer is subject to small manufacturing fluctuations.
The most prominent notes for me are clearly the jasmine and the sea salt and mineral notes. In the opening you have very briefly a freshness kick, which I would attribute to bergamot and lemon. However, these citrusy notes don't last a minute. The basic character of Eden Roc is achieved after a few minutes. Jasmine trims the scent into a very floral or floral direction. If the sea salt would not take the counterpart here, I would definitely make a very feminine fragrance out of the unisex here. Since the sea salt as well as the mineral notes but are skillfully mixed with the floral tones, I feel Eden-Roc also absolutely wearable for a man. However, you should have an affinity for floral fragrances or at least no fundamental aversion to them.
If I had to represent the fragrance figuratively, then you could imagine this in the form of a high-quality sunscreen. You lie by the sea, now and then the salty sea air mixes with the smell of the flowery sunscreen. After you come out of the sea, your own skin smell has mixed with the sea salt of the water.
In the later drydown, Eden-Roc gains some more profile through the pine. However, one should not expect any tart green tones here. The sunscreen character is merely supplemented by a few spicier elements.
The performance of Eden-Roc is between 6 and 7 hours. This is for me personally the pain threshold in this price range. The first hour Eden-Roc radiates thereby quite potent from the skin, before he then becomes Hautnah.
What are the alternatives in this range? To be honest, some. Some of them in similar price ranges, some also cheaper. There would be on the one hand the Sandflowers of Montale. Also with this sunscreen on salty skin style. Here, however, the opening is much more medicinal and the floral aspects are not as prominent. Price-wise, you get Sandflowers for 100ml for about 100 EUR. The performance is about 8 hours.
The higher-priced variant would be the Acqua di Sale from Profumum Roma. Also here is set on a "salty skin after bathing accord". Due to the high fragrance oil concentration of at least 43%, we have here an incredibly strong durability. Aqua di Sale can be perceived even after 15h on the skin. Pricing is here for 100ml at 225 EUR.
Almost identical to Acqua di Sale smells the Salina of Laboratorio Olfattivo. Here we are at 100€ for 100ml and a shelf life of 8-9 hours. Who the Acqua di Sale is too expensive, which finds here an almost identical variant with slightly weaker durability.
As a fan of aquatic fragrances, I still liked the Eden Roc. The combination of the white-floral elements paired with the salty notes of the sea result for me in total a convincing summer scent. Price-performance is but in view of the alternatives (which are a) cheaper and b) better perform rather poor.
The sprayer of my bottle is unfortunately not 100% satisfactory. Although also a fine spray comes out, but this can not be fine-tuned so well with pressure. Probably my sprayer is subject to small manufacturing fluctuations.
The most prominent notes for me are clearly the jasmine and the sea salt and mineral notes. In the opening you have very briefly a freshness kick, which I would attribute to bergamot and lemon. However, these citrusy notes don't last a minute. The basic character of Eden Roc is achieved after a few minutes. Jasmine trims the scent into a very floral or floral direction. If the sea salt would not take the counterpart here, I would definitely make a very feminine fragrance out of the unisex here. Since the sea salt as well as the mineral notes but are skillfully mixed with the floral tones, I feel Eden-Roc also absolutely wearable for a man. However, you should have an affinity for floral fragrances or at least no fundamental aversion to them.
If I had to represent the fragrance figuratively, then you could imagine this in the form of a high-quality sunscreen. You lie by the sea, now and then the salty sea air mixes with the smell of the flowery sunscreen. After you come out of the sea, your own skin smell has mixed with the sea salt of the water.
In the later drydown, Eden-Roc gains some more profile through the pine. However, one should not expect any tart green tones here. The sunscreen character is merely supplemented by a few spicier elements.
The performance of Eden-Roc is between 6 and 7 hours. This is for me personally the pain threshold in this price range. The first hour Eden-Roc radiates thereby quite potent from the skin, before he then becomes Hautnah.
What are the alternatives in this range? To be honest, some. Some of them in similar price ranges, some also cheaper. There would be on the one hand the Sandflowers of Montale. Also with this sunscreen on salty skin style. Here, however, the opening is much more medicinal and the floral aspects are not as prominent. Price-wise, you get Sandflowers for 100ml for about 100 EUR. The performance is about 8 hours.
The higher-priced variant would be the Acqua di Sale from Profumum Roma. Also here is set on a "salty skin after bathing accord". Due to the high fragrance oil concentration of at least 43%, we have here an incredibly strong durability. Aqua di Sale can be perceived even after 15h on the skin. Pricing is here for 100ml at 225 EUR.
Almost identical to Acqua di Sale smells the Salina of Laboratorio Olfattivo. Here we are at 100€ for 100ml and a shelf life of 8-9 hours. Who the Acqua di Sale is too expensive, which finds here an almost identical variant with slightly weaker durability.
As a fan of aquatic fragrances, I still liked the Eden Roc. The combination of the white-floral elements paired with the salty notes of the sea result for me in total a convincing summer scent. Price-performance is but in view of the alternatives (which are a) cheaper and b) better perform rather poor.
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Is there a liquorice in the Starbucks
The Eau Noire was released in 2004 and comes as one of the few fragrances of the Privee series not from Francois Demachy, but from Francis Kurkdjian, who of course you will know through his own fragrance house "Maison Francis Kurkdjian".
I would describe Eau Noire thereby as spicy-aromatic. On the Internet, the fragrance is rather called spicy-gourmand. The Gourmand aspects, however, I can not quite understand here.
If you look at the fragrance notes now, you could already have a premonition with vanilla and licorice that it could go in the direction of gourmand. But the most prominent notes for my nose are the lavender, the strawflower (which is not listed in the official notes) and the licorice. For me, though, Eau Noire is ostensibly one thing. And that is an outstandingly good coffee scent, which thereby connected the lavender quite clearly in the foreground. In the opening we have here a slightly sweet coffee, which is cleverly set off by all sorts of spices. Many are smelling Eau Noire for the first time and directly associate the smell of the strawflower with the smell of curry. While I can understand that association, nothing here smells to me like a typical curry dish like you'd get from Indian. The spices give the fragrance just in the opening a few edges and let the coffee thereby not stand alone and not too sweet.
Compared to the vetiver, the coffee here but not like earthy coffee grounds but already more like a dark, brewed coffee with a pinch of sugar. In the course of the fragrance, the coffee is then but thicker, syrupy and you could figuratively see the spoon stuck in the coffee. The sweetness increases a bit, but is still well balanced by the spices. Once the licorice has completely spread, the coffee aroma recedes a bit and makes way for that slightly sweet medicinal smell of the licorice with its aniseed note. So the fragrance then also sounds out over time.
The performance is at 10 hours and only after 2-3 hours, the fragrance slowly becomes skin. It is thereby not a screamer that bothers people but a potent fragrance that is pleasant in the air.
So here we have a not too sweet coffee scent, with nice spice and syrupy drydown, which can play its advantages perfectly, especially in the cold season. The fragrance is warming, soothing and simply a pleasure in cold weather.
I would describe Eau Noire thereby as spicy-aromatic. On the Internet, the fragrance is rather called spicy-gourmand. The Gourmand aspects, however, I can not quite understand here.
If you look at the fragrance notes now, you could already have a premonition with vanilla and licorice that it could go in the direction of gourmand. But the most prominent notes for my nose are the lavender, the strawflower (which is not listed in the official notes) and the licorice. For me, though, Eau Noire is ostensibly one thing. And that is an outstandingly good coffee scent, which thereby connected the lavender quite clearly in the foreground. In the opening we have here a slightly sweet coffee, which is cleverly set off by all sorts of spices. Many are smelling Eau Noire for the first time and directly associate the smell of the strawflower with the smell of curry. While I can understand that association, nothing here smells to me like a typical curry dish like you'd get from Indian. The spices give the fragrance just in the opening a few edges and let the coffee thereby not stand alone and not too sweet.
Compared to the vetiver, the coffee here but not like earthy coffee grounds but already more like a dark, brewed coffee with a pinch of sugar. In the course of the fragrance, the coffee is then but thicker, syrupy and you could figuratively see the spoon stuck in the coffee. The sweetness increases a bit, but is still well balanced by the spices. Once the licorice has completely spread, the coffee aroma recedes a bit and makes way for that slightly sweet medicinal smell of the licorice with its aniseed note. So the fragrance then also sounds out over time.
The performance is at 10 hours and only after 2-3 hours, the fragrance slowly becomes skin. It is thereby not a screamer that bothers people but a potent fragrance that is pleasant in the air.
So here we have a not too sweet coffee scent, with nice spice and syrupy drydown, which can play its advantages perfectly, especially in the cold season. The fragrance is warming, soothing and simply a pleasure in cold weather.
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Broadening the horizon
Drakkar Noir is a fragrance that has accompanied me for many years. There is hardly a fragrance to which I reach more often when I do not know what to wear. Guy Laroche has so with this fragrance with me absolutely a stone in the board
That one may limit a brand but not on only one fragrance, shows here Horizon. Horizon is an incredibly fresh fragrance with aquatic impact. However, not the light blue kind of aquatic that one often associates with this genre. Horizon goes in a different direction than usual aquatics. In fact, to me, Horizon is more of an herbaceous green aquatic. I rather think of a deep green sea covered in algae and haunted by storms and waves. The opening is a direct reach into the herb garden. Thyme, allspice, fennel, bay leaf are just a few of the notes that make up this scent. The start may put some off, as Horizon doesn't want to come across as pleasing here. Here, the sea air blows harsh and cool around your nose. The sea salt in the top note is reminiscent of the sea spray when waves break just offshore. Fennel and allspice give the fragrance for a brief moment a slight "soup spice" character, but are then moved by thyme and the cypress in the background.
This is a fragrance that may seem out of time to some today. I would even argue that you have a fragrance here that was ahead of its time in 1993. To this day, I know of few aquatics that go in this direction. An imitator would be the Kenzo Pour Homme, which goes in a similarly tart, herbaceous direction, but at no time can reach the intensity of Horizon.
The shelf life is 8-9 hours. For a fresh fragrance so more than convincing.
The only problem is that it is no longer marketed and discontinued. In Germany, there is currently no reliable dealer. But if you are not afraid of the detour via foreign countries, you can get the 50ml flacons for example from FragranceX for under 8€. Yes, I didn't make a mistake there. 7,95 EUR. I have secured me back then many years ago directly quite a few flacons of it.
Who stands on absolutely masculine and aquatic-fresh fragrances, but the focus is not on the azure-blue sea, but on an emerald-green sea, will find the perfect companion in the Horizon
That one may limit a brand but not on only one fragrance, shows here Horizon. Horizon is an incredibly fresh fragrance with aquatic impact. However, not the light blue kind of aquatic that one often associates with this genre. Horizon goes in a different direction than usual aquatics. In fact, to me, Horizon is more of an herbaceous green aquatic. I rather think of a deep green sea covered in algae and haunted by storms and waves. The opening is a direct reach into the herb garden. Thyme, allspice, fennel, bay leaf are just a few of the notes that make up this scent. The start may put some off, as Horizon doesn't want to come across as pleasing here. Here, the sea air blows harsh and cool around your nose. The sea salt in the top note is reminiscent of the sea spray when waves break just offshore. Fennel and allspice give the fragrance for a brief moment a slight "soup spice" character, but are then moved by thyme and the cypress in the background.
This is a fragrance that may seem out of time to some today. I would even argue that you have a fragrance here that was ahead of its time in 1993. To this day, I know of few aquatics that go in this direction. An imitator would be the Kenzo Pour Homme, which goes in a similarly tart, herbaceous direction, but at no time can reach the intensity of Horizon.
The shelf life is 8-9 hours. For a fresh fragrance so more than convincing.
The only problem is that it is no longer marketed and discontinued. In Germany, there is currently no reliable dealer. But if you are not afraid of the detour via foreign countries, you can get the 50ml flacons for example from FragranceX for under 8€. Yes, I didn't make a mistake there. 7,95 EUR. I have secured me back then many years ago directly quite a few flacons of it.
Who stands on absolutely masculine and aquatic-fresh fragrances, but the focus is not on the azure-blue sea, but on an emerald-green sea, will find the perfect companion in the Horizon
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Harry, go get the oud
This perfume house, which is more precisely called "Parfums by weight Harry Lehmann", originates from Berlin and was already founded in 1926. The company is now run by the son, Lutz Lehmann. At Parfums nach Gewicht Harry Lehmann you can have ready-made fragrances filled in any quantity (hence the name). The fragrance creations range from typical fougères to modern summer scents. There's also an oud fragrance of their own here. This was released in 2015 and comes in an eau de parfum concentration. The bottles at Harry Lehmann are uniform, differing only by the sticker on the front. The sizes range from 10ml to 100ml as an atomizer (larger pour bottles are also available). The atomizer is screwed on here and you can have the fragrance refilled at Harry Lehmann in Berlin. The spray head is solid and distributes an even fragrance mist.
A fragrance pyramid or information about the fragrances can unfortunately not be found. I smell here but clearly saffron, patchouli and woods out. Cardamom may not be missing in an oud-inspired fragrance of course. I also smell it strongly here, which makes the association with Tom Ford's Oud Wood obvious. Both scents are similar, but Harry Lehmann's oud is miles away from a pure dupe. The basic theme may be similar, but the implementation of the DNA is completely different. Both scents share a medicinal note in the opening. I think that here saffron is tonangebend. While the oud of Lehmann then goes in the drydown but something more in the direction of spicy woods, the Oud Wood tends more in the direction of sweet vanilla. The Harry Lehmann oud also has a certain dustiness in the background that reminded me of YSL's M7. Anyway, the quality is right here. In the later drydown, the Harry Lehmann oud then becomes a bit creamier, softer and also rounder. It seems then as if all the individual stones then suddenly intertwine and complete the fragrance. The shelf life is about 7-8 hours. One gets the Oud of Harry Lehmann for under 50€ for 50ml.
It's these unassuming and sometimes quirky scents that always surprise you. A good Oud fragrance from Germany I had so personally not on the screen. Here you get an excellent smelling fragrance for relatively little money, which puts the subject of oud relatively modern and without much fuss in the scene. Since definitely worth the personal visit in Berlin directly on site to test.
A fragrance pyramid or information about the fragrances can unfortunately not be found. I smell here but clearly saffron, patchouli and woods out. Cardamom may not be missing in an oud-inspired fragrance of course. I also smell it strongly here, which makes the association with Tom Ford's Oud Wood obvious. Both scents are similar, but Harry Lehmann's oud is miles away from a pure dupe. The basic theme may be similar, but the implementation of the DNA is completely different. Both scents share a medicinal note in the opening. I think that here saffron is tonangebend. While the oud of Lehmann then goes in the drydown but something more in the direction of spicy woods, the Oud Wood tends more in the direction of sweet vanilla. The Harry Lehmann oud also has a certain dustiness in the background that reminded me of YSL's M7. Anyway, the quality is right here. In the later drydown, the Harry Lehmann oud then becomes a bit creamier, softer and also rounder. It seems then as if all the individual stones then suddenly intertwine and complete the fragrance. The shelf life is about 7-8 hours. One gets the Oud of Harry Lehmann for under 50€ for 50ml.
It's these unassuming and sometimes quirky scents that always surprise you. A good Oud fragrance from Germany I had so personally not on the screen. Here you get an excellent smelling fragrance for relatively little money, which puts the subject of oud relatively modern and without much fuss in the scene. Since definitely worth the personal visit in Berlin directly on site to test.
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The camper oud
The Netherlands is known for some classics. Rembrandt, van Gogh, bad soccer, that elderly woman from the Mini Playback show, and lately, apparently, some pretty good oud scents. The Times They Are a-Changin'.
Van Gils' Live is also very clearly about oud. Live was released in 2013 and comes in an eau de toilette concentration. The bottle is in my opinion absolutely stylish, reminds of the color of the vintage M7 from YSL and is very good in the hand. The closure is made of plastic, but seems high quality and closes with a rich click. You can therefore take the fragrance up even with the closure. The sprayer is on an above-average level and distributes the fragrance evenly in a very fine spray. This is the first surprise.
A look at the fragrance pyramid shows us that we are also dealing with a spicy-woody fragrance. In the top note we have an air accord (which sounds stupid on paper, but makes olfactory sense, but more on that later) orange and grapefruit. In the heart notes we have vetiver and patchouli and in the base vanilla, leather and oud.
The live starts very briefly fresh, citrusy and actually airy. This may sound stupid, but is quite noticeable. This air accord (whatever it may be made of) really makes you feel for a brief moment like you're standing at an open window with fresh air blowing towards you. The vetiver and patchouli then form the basic foundation for the oud that comes in later. The basic DNA here already tends towards a tart oud wood. I can't detect a cardamom note like in Harry Lehmann or Tom Ford. Instead, the vetiver and patchouli create a pleasant earthiness.
The leather is not superficial here, but gives the oud enough space to unfold. This smells neither fecal nor particularly medicinal, but rather woody-warm. At the very end, vanilla is added in the drydown and rounds off the scent olfactorically, but without drifting into sweetness. The Live remains at all times a thoroughly masculine fragrance. The shelf life is 5-6 hours. The availability of Live is a little more difficult to determine. On Ebay you can find the fragrance now and then.
So in the end remains a more tart, edgy relative of Tom Ford's Oud Wood and YSL's M7, which seems a bit awkward on his clogs in the first moment, but knows how to make up for it with charming manner
Van Gils' Live is also very clearly about oud. Live was released in 2013 and comes in an eau de toilette concentration. The bottle is in my opinion absolutely stylish, reminds of the color of the vintage M7 from YSL and is very good in the hand. The closure is made of plastic, but seems high quality and closes with a rich click. You can therefore take the fragrance up even with the closure. The sprayer is on an above-average level and distributes the fragrance evenly in a very fine spray. This is the first surprise.
A look at the fragrance pyramid shows us that we are also dealing with a spicy-woody fragrance. In the top note we have an air accord (which sounds stupid on paper, but makes olfactory sense, but more on that later) orange and grapefruit. In the heart notes we have vetiver and patchouli and in the base vanilla, leather and oud.
The live starts very briefly fresh, citrusy and actually airy. This may sound stupid, but is quite noticeable. This air accord (whatever it may be made of) really makes you feel for a brief moment like you're standing at an open window with fresh air blowing towards you. The vetiver and patchouli then form the basic foundation for the oud that comes in later. The basic DNA here already tends towards a tart oud wood. I can't detect a cardamom note like in Harry Lehmann or Tom Ford. Instead, the vetiver and patchouli create a pleasant earthiness.
The leather is not superficial here, but gives the oud enough space to unfold. This smells neither fecal nor particularly medicinal, but rather woody-warm. At the very end, vanilla is added in the drydown and rounds off the scent olfactorically, but without drifting into sweetness. The Live remains at all times a thoroughly masculine fragrance. The shelf life is 5-6 hours. The availability of Live is a little more difficult to determine. On Ebay you can find the fragrance now and then.
So in the end remains a more tart, edgy relative of Tom Ford's Oud Wood and YSL's M7, which seems a bit awkward on his clogs in the first moment, but knows how to make up for it with charming manner
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