Translated · Show originalShow translation
Once Oud - always Oud? What is Oud? This is Oud - pure and unique!
It all started with my desire to be inspired by a fragrance once again. That doesn’t happen very often, and I mean real enthusiasm, like OH MY GOD! What is this? Smell, rejoice, dream....
I made my way to Düsseldorf to browse through the perfumeries, among other things. At Douglas on the Kö, I immediately saw the fragrances from Roja Dove presented in a row, the regular collection. My favorite salesperson, an Arab, came right away to introduce me to the fragrances and tell me what an incredibly cool and capable guy Roja is, whom he had the chance to meet at the fair. I told him that I had read a bit about him and that I had already tested Amber Aoud and was really impressed. Once by the fragrance itself, the authenticity of the Arabic, and of course by the quality. At the same time, I also told him that I currently had two difficulties with Oud and would rather orient myself differently.
On one hand, the problem is that I don’t use Oud very often in everyday life because it is quite heavy and dark, and I have to be in a special mood to wear it; I now identify more with soft-oriental fragrances, for example, Homage by Amouage. There is Oud in it, but it is not an Oud fragrance. One must distinguish. There are Oud fragrances and there are fragrances with Oud.
The second problem I have is that the topic of Oud absolutely annoys me. In the Western variant. Because those who know Oud, real Oud, as it is produced/used in the Arab countries, find it hard to get along with the Oud fragrances in Western perfumery. And I mean Oud for incense and in oil form for perfuming. I dare say that alcohol is partly a reason why Western Oud fragrances, no matter how well they are made, cannot convey the true beauty of Oud.
On the other hand, due to the Oud hype, we also have so many poorly made fragrances that simply adorn themselves with the Oud note or use it as a selling point. Many fragrances are very similar and overall bore me.
During the conversation, I sniffed one fragrance strip after another from the Roja Dove "normal" collection. Yes, nice, top quality, but I didn’t find the absolute knockout, taste-wise. I looked to the right at the Aoud Collection with the Oud fragrances and thought, ah since I’m already here, I would like to test the Musk Oud out of curiosity. I did just that. The Arab salesperson sprayed the Aoud Absolue on a fragrance strip and said I should smell it, it is pure Oud and something special. And there it was, OH MY GOD! OH MY GOD! WHAT IS THIS? THIS IS PURE OUD! Yes, it is supposed to be pure Cambodian Oud (my favorite Oud) and pure perfume. The test strip turned brown (because oily and highly concentrated) and I had arrived in fragrance heaven.
I have smelled a lot of Oud, even exclusive Oud, beyond the 500 Euro mark at Al Qurashi or Areej (a very exclusive Arab Oud provider), but I had never come across something so beautiful before.
The skin test followed. The main characters are Oud and Rose, a combination that is probably the most commonly used, also in Arab perfumery. Initially, the Oud is in absolute focus. A deep, not too dark, sensual, creamy Oud. I have never smelled anything like it. It is probably the vanilla that rounds it off, which is very untypical for an Oud fragrance. Because there was always some attribute that I found disturbing. Either too earthy, or too sharp, in the worst case, fecal. After a while, the Rose joins in, filtered through a veil and held by the Oud. Very interestingly done, it is clearly there, almost in the foreground, but not at all penetrating, which is so often the case. This lasts for quite a while. In the base, it becomes drier, powdery. Leathery. And in all phases, the fragrance is simply unique. An absolute work of art. Roja Dove describes this creation as a contemporary/modern interpretation of pure Oud. It is authentic enough to be accepted on the Arab side, as well as modern enough to absolutely delight the Westerner.
In comparison, I was sprayed with the regular Aoud Eau de Parfum. And I thought only, no, after this, it doesn’t work at all. Yes, it smells authentic and of high quality, but definitely different, and once again the observation: the alcohol ruins everything!
There is, of course, a catch. The Aoud Absolu costs 990 Euros for 30ml. One could say SHOCK! However, one must not forget that Oud is the most expensive raw material; that excellent Oud fragrances in the Arab countries can cost several thousand Euros per Tola (12ml).
The question is only, can I afford it? Do I want to afford it?
Yes, I want to. No, I cannot. Not necessarily. This question has actually put me in a moral dilemma. Which I would rather not report on here :)
The decision is definitely that I would like to share it and would be satisfied with 10ml. So if anyone is interested, please get in touch..
Anyone interested can check out the interesting link about Roja Dove and Oud. I found it interesting to learn more about the man who created something so wonderful.
http://jetsetfashionmagazine.com/wordpress/beauty/interview-with-roja-dove-only-50-people-in-the-world-own-my-most-precious-perfume