Supersegi

MiN New York definitely caught my attention with Moon Dust, but then left me hanging, as most are somehow too loveless and artificial for the price segment.

I love fragrances with strong smoke - Bogue Lita, Beaufort, Hiram Green's Hyde, The Zoos No Perfume I now perceive as "pleasantly mild" even and "refreshing." Unfortunately, that's not the case for everyone.

Dahab manages to strike a balance for me - it feels slightly smoky, but comes off like a designer scent. It's unique and clearly niche, yet still understandable as "pleasant smelling" for most. Clearly artificial and chemical - but due to the cinnamon and saffron, it becomes relatively mild in the drydown.

Nowadays, only those scents make it onto my favorites list that don't annoy me in the morning after waking up (and last long, at least 24h). This one - although I objectively understand that it might be too loveless for the connoisseurs here - is still pleasant for me even after waking up in the morning.

I would recommend this to anyone coming from designer fragrances who wants something "interesting" but doesn't want to overwhelm themselves too much. Or to niche enthusiasts who "need something boring for once," but still want something niche, so to speak.

I recommended this to a friend who previously wore Tam Dao as his signature scent - he immediately bought the Scent Stories Vol.1/Ch.11 - Moon Dust Eau de Parfum to go with it.

Thanks to FavelaJoe for this revelation first of all. This gem was even personally delivered to me with the statement “Do you know this one? It's really smoky!”

I rushed up the stairs full of anticipation, rolled up my sleeves, and I can hardly believe it.
This review will be quite different from most of the fragrance reviews here so far.

Everyone who is active here will probably, like me, sniff several dozen perfumes a week - for me often 30-50 per week, which I can't even manage to list all here. Very often I have 2-3 scents on each arm and even more on my knees.

Very rarely, once every 100, there is one that completely blows me away. This one was IMMEDIATELY one of those.

On my skin, there is neither a particular darkness noticeable, nor leather or any note that should make it unbearable or “strong” for me, not even particularly smoky (compared to No Perfume by The Zoo, Bois d`Ascèse, etc.)

I immediately perceive a paper note, fresh, new copy paper, which I really love. Ink, light spices, and a balsamic vanilla. To me, it smells fresh and even aquatic through the ginger, like the theme processed in Zoologist Squid, just without the salt.

The smokiness here is blended with tobacco, vanilla, and cedarwood in such a way that Amouage Interlude immediately comes to mind for me, but without the oriental and penetrating parts, rather the sillage after about 8 hours.

Darkness is thematically hinted at here, as a summer night can be dark. Paper as a chord indeed has something airy, fresh, and light about it.

For me, a sensual composition that catapults me emotionally into various realms, from a summer night to a fireplace evening, from the depths of the sea to the paper shop around the corner, from the old gentleman with a monocle to the avant-garde yet romantic hero of an 80s film adaptation, straight into the modern age.

I have long been searching for a scent that unites what I liked in Encre Noire, Squid, Interlude, No Perfume, Lair du Désert Marocain, and Fougére and feels like my favorite color.

Royal blue heart massage.

Thank you once again to MkCb for the decant of this relatively rare fragrance, which I find massively underrated here. Paul Kiler hasn't achieved any particular wonders with his own fragrance line, but he created one of my favorites - Rhinoceros by Zoologist (2014).

Right from the cap, it becomes clear to me: I won't be getting rid of this until the day after tomorrow, absolutely massive sillage around the atomizer.

In the opening, there is a very angular blend of saffron, a lot of saffron, loud saffron, the air in the room even turns orange. Coffee is absolutely nowhere to be found for me, ginger is slightly present in the undertone, but disappears immediately.

15 minutes later, tobacco and garden clove unfold for me, with loud tonka bean and benzoin - together this creates a very soapy/fougère-like vibe with dry tobacco.

Definitely not blended smoothly, you get clear edges, and for fans of the French, this will definitely be a challenge. One fragrance note, then another.

Like slaps, first with the left hand, then the right. It’s that strong, it’s that loud. It’s still in the room since this morning. After one spray, more than 16 hours, absolute top class.

Due to its extreme loudness, penetrance, and peculiarities, it’s definitely only for those who can also wear Ombré Nomade, Penhaligon's Sohan, or similar fragrances in the office.

Awesome statement fragrance, which I believe will slip into my top 20, but too intense for a signature scent.

The brand has a few special surprises and hidden gems, even for oil critics.
Sacro is strong, beautifully rounded, and features the same theme processed with incense.

Irmao has a distinctly more contrasting development - the first 30 minutes are cinnamon and ginger, but of the soft, warm, and grounding kind. I let the lady smell it, her eyes widen and "hmmm delicious" spontaneously erupts.

1 hour later.. Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford. The same dense and very gourmand vanilla with a hint of light tobacco. Everywhere around me in the air. For several hours, absolutely nuclear longevity and sillage for many hours. Great scent, I will experiment with it even more.

Here it is.

I was really skeptical about oils so far, as they often ... seemed flat, promise little projection, and often offer little over time. Nasomatto has proven me wrong, and I found this brand on Instagram..

Delivery from Italy via DHL Express in under 24 hours, great presentation. Clearly a well-thought-out concept of the brand, and you can sniff out the fingerprint of this brand in all the fragrances.

First tried on paper, then the top 5 directly on the skin..

Sacro is immediately THE frankincense scent. It hardly gets stronger at the start, scratchy and wild. A few minutes later, however, a very rounded vanilla opens up, light amber, and very faintly in the background a floral idea that merely softens the frankincense, making it cozy, absolutely beautiful.

After just a small drop on my wrist, there is a gigantic cloud around me that only fades after a few hours. A big surprise for an oil. Only the next morning can I detect a light scent on my skin.

Absolute test recommendation for all lovers of frankincense (Full Incense, Cardinal, Profumum Roma).

The feeling here for me is what arises with Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford, but instead of tobacco, it’s the frankincense theme. A mix of sexy, cozy, delicious, and at the same time somehow avant-garde.