TerredeJonny

I discovered this fragrance quite a while ago and was initially quite enthusiastic. The wonderful, citrus-minty-berry top note really captivated me. The blend of lightness and Asian mystique is something I haven't smelled anywhere else before. I read somewhere that the scent conveys the image of a samurai, and I think that fits. Perhaps the image of a humble gentleman-samurai, a businessman by day and at night... wait, that story already exists. In a hastily written statement, I described the fragrance as a berry-chocolate niche variant of CK-One, and I still think that fits well regarding the top note.

Then I stumbled. The highly regarded user Schoork (Where have you gone?) wrote a thorough critique here. He accused the fragrance of becoming merely cloyingly sweet and thus interchangeable after just a few minutes, and of not lasting very long. I couldn't really relate to the second criticism, but it is true that the beautiful top note is temporarily completely overshadowed. The scent indeed becomes very chocolatey, and there's not much of the balanced creaminess to be noticed yet.

For a long time, I wasn't sure whether my enthusiasm for the top note was enough to still find this fragrance good in its entirety, or whether it ultimately is just an interchangeable drugstore scent that only stands out with a beautiful top note. I often wore it at home as a "feel-good fragrance." I don't know what it is, but at the moment I tend to question Schoork's judgment again. Perhaps the contents of the bottle have matured further, or maybe it's because I've paid more attention to the fragrance development again. In any case, in my opinion, the second, cloyingly sweet wave of scent is replaced by a third phase in which mint and berry are again perceptible in a beautiful, creamy overall composition. And this third phase is indeed a superb combination of sweet chocolate, creamy vanilla, and also a bit of berry freshness.

Now I am sure of my judgment: The fragrance is great. Those who can endure the unusual scent progression will enjoy all phases of the fragrance. Since the scent progression also sets in very quickly, one can even calculate well when one enters the third phase. Personally, I find the third phase even office-compatible.

In any case, I have learned quite a bit with this fragrance. On the one hand, that Parfumo is truly a great place to explore different facets of a fragrance. On the other hand, I have learned to give a fragrance time and attention and to trust my own nose. :-) In this sense, have fun testing!

A lot has already been said about the scent. But I am wearing it right now and still feel that not everything has been said. I find this fragrance extremely likable because it makes absolutely no compromises:

- Mandarin in all its facets, sour and also heavy, almost rotten sweetness
- no "light breeze-aquatic"
- virtually no scent development
- absolutely unsuitable for the office, this is a scent for the beach (... or balcony)
- in my opinion, it should really only be worn with a casual-elegant summer outfit
- radiates untamed self-confidence, especially because it is not a crowd-pleaser and the sillage is strong
- almost intrusive longevity
- highly impractical bottle

This fragrance is a statement, certainly not pleasing. This is niche. Definitely test before buying. You either love it or hate it. I love it.

... titled the New York Times in 2006 [1]. However, the initially philosophical question arose not in an artistic but in a legal context. The highest French court, the Cour de Cassation, ruled in the summer of that year that the perfume creation of "Dune" by Dior primarily represents a craft and not an artistic achievement, as "The scent of a perfume, which results from the simple implementation of expertise [... does not] represent 'the creation of a form of expression that can benefit from the protection of intellectual works'" [2]. Consequently, the creator and plaintiff could not demand royalties after leaving the company for the sale of the fragrance.

What does this have to do with the scent?
The plaintiff in this case is named Nejla Bsiri-Barbir, who is also referred to as the perfumer of this fragrance [3]. This is not yet verifiable; the brand Reyane Tradition does not even have a website, and there is little information available about Ms. Bsiri-Barbir.

In any case, the scent is very unusual. It is sweet, a bit leathery, vanillic, oudy, and woody; I also perceive it as slightly rosy. I can't quite figure out the scent. It is very sweet and lasts forever; nevertheless, it is subtle and never kitschy or too heavy, not even at the beginning. Tending towards it, I would recommend it more for younger gentlemen. I can imagine wearing it in cold seasons (in autumn and winter) in all situations.

If the creation of perfume were merely simple "mixing" that follows strict rules, why is there no other scent like this? Of course, a scent is a collection of molecules. A painting is that too. And naturally, one can learn the craft of perfumery, just like painting. However, this scent is so unusual that it cannot have arisen from the mere "dumping of substances," based on experiential knowledge. There is a creative process behind it. The will to create a sweet scent that is wearable at any time. That is a difficult balancing act. This scent is something entirely new. One could say: art.

Whether the creation of this unusual scent at the price of €25 is intended as a planned critique, a declaration of war against large fragrance companies, I do not know. Given the price, quality, and uniqueness of this fragrance, I can well imagine it, in connection with the story of the alleged perfumer. The anonymity of the brand behind the perfume is also unusual, a contrast to the all-encompassing marketing of designer fragrances, and even most niche fragrances.

Ultimately, it doesn't matter whether the perfumer is indeed Nejla Bsiri-Barbir and whether she, turned away from large corporations and their business practices, stands behind the brand Reyane Tradition. The perfume is anyway a declaration of war in their direction.

[1] Is a Scent like a Song? Oui and Non, Elaine Sciolino, New York Times, July 13, 2006
[2] Cass. civ. 1. ch., June 13, 2006, Propr. Intell. pp. 442-443; reprinted in Claire Guillemin, Law & Odeur: Fragrance Protection in the Fields of Perfumery and Cosmetics, p. 167.
[3] e.g. at Pillashop, easily found in an internet search for Reyane fragrances, left column of the website

The fragrance with the most inappropriate name there is? Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême!

The Duden defines the meaning of the (translated from French) word Allüren as referring to a "deviant tone of conduct," even "conspicuous behavior," "mannerisms." One imagines the "strong man," the macho, who must absolutely dominate the entire room and draw all eyes to himself.

However, the fragrance captivates with a light citrus note combined with the sparing use of tonka bean and sandalwood, conveying a sense of ease. The scent progression is very linear, and the sillage is not striking, nothing overwhelming. That is precisely the strength of this fragrance. It is not a sport scent, as many others have already pointed out here.

Really, folks. Anyone who refers to this fragrance as a "pantydropper" should not wear it. It may indeed be very well received by women. But precisely not through macho behavior, rather through simplicity.

The scent is said to be a copy of Layton, and according to other comments and statements, it probably is. I personally don't know, as I've never smelled Layton. I find prices over €100 for perfume rarely justified and must honestly admit that I was simply not willing to spend such an amount on this particular scent, given the fragrance components that, while interesting, do not completely align with my preferences. Therefore, from the outset, only the Royal Equestrian was considered for testing.

However, I don't want to linger solely on the fact that "it's cheaper, has a strong sillage and longevity" (which is undoubtedly the case), so I will now describe what I smell and what scene comes to mind.

For me, the fragrance components (I mainly smell apple, cinnamon, vanilla, and a bit of citrus) combine to create a baked apple scent. Very sweet, heavy, cinnamon-like. And along with that, I picture a 16-year-old, styled to the max, out at the local fair trying to catch the attention of the ladies. Standing out at any cost! When he spots a girl he likes, he calls out, "Hey snail, can I treat you to a baked apple?".

The latest comment on the PdM Layton is titled "... it smells like a brothel here." I think that hits the mark. Even though the author of this comment actually likes it. I find the scent very youthful, immature, and showy. It’s too heavy, too deliberately special. This might work for a teenager with women, but not so much for an adult.

In summary: not my thing, but certainly well crafted.