Vetiver
Glycyrrhiza glabra
Juniper berry
Tonka bean
Coriander
Smoky notes
09/15/2024
Apicius
224 Reviews
Apicius
5
Is this still Guerlain?
Perfumes come and go, and especially the so-called flankers – that is, variants of an original scent – do not enjoy any right of continuance. In this case, Guerlain replaces the very respectable Vetiver Extreme with Vetiver Parfum. Guerlain – unlike some other brands – can claim to have consistently presented high-quality flankers.
Let's check if this is the case here as well.
The scent impression confirms: Vetiver Parfum is closer to its predecessor Extreme than to the original Vetiver EdT. The link to this is the distinctly noticeable smokiness. The name already suggests that we are dealing with a possibly stronger, somehow "darker" variant of a vetiver. The smokiness is accompanied by spicy notes which lead to a rather slender character of the fragrance. A sense of freshness in the top arises from a note that I perceived as minty.
Vetivers that focus on smokiness can be problematic. I know examples where everything is just rough and unsightly. This does not apply to Vetiver Parfum, it remains subtle. Delphine Jelk takes the smokiness in Vetiver Parfum right to the edge of what seems reasonably possible. In doing so, she refrains from masking the smokiness with other notes – for example, citrusy ones. On the contrary, the use of lean, spicy notes could have the potential to further emphasize a smoky, scratchy character. It is likely due to the artistry or simply the diligence of the perfumer that the point of tilting into the unpleasant is perhaps indicated in the distance, but not crossed.
It has been a long stylistic journey from the original Vetiver scent by Guerlain, which was available until the year 2000, to its successor and then to the Vetiver Parfum. Vetiver Parfum holds back from any opulence and complexity that was more or less pronounced in its predecessors. It seems like it is made from a single mold and shows little development. Vetiver Parfum embodies the purist style of Jean-Claude Ellena - it could have also come from Hermès. Against the backdrop that mass-market men's perfumes seem to be becoming increasingly banal in my perception, one cannot accuse Guerlain of closing itself off to current trends. The accusation of banality, in this case, cannot be made, of course.
But what images of green can Vetiver Parfum evoke in us? Is this still tropical rainforest? Are these the Scottish Highlands? I see concrete here, austere office architecture, a sober urban aesthetic – and the corporation has decided to engage in a bit of green roofing for the sake of its image. In such an environment, Vetiver Parfum could add a touch of elegance.
Vetiver Parfum is not for me. As puristic as it may be, as difficult it is for me to access. I am missing warmth, complexity, and intimacy here. I cannot imagine any situation or mood in which I would want to wear Vetiver Parfum.
Let's check if this is the case here as well.
The scent impression confirms: Vetiver Parfum is closer to its predecessor Extreme than to the original Vetiver EdT. The link to this is the distinctly noticeable smokiness. The name already suggests that we are dealing with a possibly stronger, somehow "darker" variant of a vetiver. The smokiness is accompanied by spicy notes which lead to a rather slender character of the fragrance. A sense of freshness in the top arises from a note that I perceived as minty.
Vetivers that focus on smokiness can be problematic. I know examples where everything is just rough and unsightly. This does not apply to Vetiver Parfum, it remains subtle. Delphine Jelk takes the smokiness in Vetiver Parfum right to the edge of what seems reasonably possible. In doing so, she refrains from masking the smokiness with other notes – for example, citrusy ones. On the contrary, the use of lean, spicy notes could have the potential to further emphasize a smoky, scratchy character. It is likely due to the artistry or simply the diligence of the perfumer that the point of tilting into the unpleasant is perhaps indicated in the distance, but not crossed.
It has been a long stylistic journey from the original Vetiver scent by Guerlain, which was available until the year 2000, to its successor and then to the Vetiver Parfum. Vetiver Parfum holds back from any opulence and complexity that was more or less pronounced in its predecessors. It seems like it is made from a single mold and shows little development. Vetiver Parfum embodies the purist style of Jean-Claude Ellena - it could have also come from Hermès. Against the backdrop that mass-market men's perfumes seem to be becoming increasingly banal in my perception, one cannot accuse Guerlain of closing itself off to current trends. The accusation of banality, in this case, cannot be made, of course.
But what images of green can Vetiver Parfum evoke in us? Is this still tropical rainforest? Are these the Scottish Highlands? I see concrete here, austere office architecture, a sober urban aesthetic – and the corporation has decided to engage in a bit of green roofing for the sake of its image. In such an environment, Vetiver Parfum could add a touch of elegance.
Vetiver Parfum is not for me. As puristic as it may be, as difficult it is for me to access. I am missing warmth, complexity, and intimacy here. I cannot imagine any situation or mood in which I would want to wear Vetiver Parfum.
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