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Black Amber
This fragrance is centered around labdanum and incense, accentuated by a distinctive salty and seaweed-like element. It presents an intriguing twist on traditional amber-based scents, incorporating a marine quality that sets it apart.
While I haven't had the opportunity to experience genuine isolated ambergris, I speculate that the saline note may be attributed to it.
The scent follows a fairly linear trajectory, maintaining the presence of salty seaweed in its drydown, harmoniously blended with cedar, vanilla, and patchouli in equal measure.
The combination is seamlessly intertwined, resulting in a tightly fused composition. The concept behind this fragrance is undeniably interesting, and it does possess an appealing aroma.
However, I find myself uncertain if it aligns with my personal preferences. If the notion of a woody incense with intriguing hints of salty seaweed captures your interest, I recommend giving this fragrance a try.
While I haven't had the opportunity to experience genuine isolated ambergris, I speculate that the saline note may be attributed to it.
The scent follows a fairly linear trajectory, maintaining the presence of salty seaweed in its drydown, harmoniously blended with cedar, vanilla, and patchouli in equal measure.
The combination is seamlessly intertwined, resulting in a tightly fused composition. The concept behind this fragrance is undeniably interesting, and it does possess an appealing aroma.
However, I find myself uncertain if it aligns with my personal preferences. If the notion of a woody incense with intriguing hints of salty seaweed captures your interest, I recommend giving this fragrance a try.
California Snow
California Snow is a fairly accurate depiction of petrichor, surpassing Baie 19 in this regard. While Baie 19 leans more towards a wet wood aroma, California Snow excels at capturing the earthy elements and green ozonic facets of humidity. Fragrances like Figment Man delve deeper into the decomposing aspects found in soil.
California Snow takes a lighter approach to petrichor, capturing the scent of rain or snow right before it touches the ground. It successfully portrays the green, moist, ozonic aroma, resembling a milder version of the smell after mowing the lawn. In the mid notes, a hint of sweetness from the rose blends seamlessly with a wet hay/grass accord. During the drydown, the musk and soil tincture achieve a delicate balance. The musk cleverly contributes to the aromatic ozonic scent, while the soil tincture, although light, enhances the petrichor accord.
Compared to Figment Man, which immerses you in the depths of soil, California Snow allows you to experience the scent of the air. It features one of the best petrichor accords I've encountered. However, if you prefer a dirtier and more soil-like experience, I recommend exploring fragrances that utilize patchouli as a basenote.
In terms of performance, California Snow leans towards the lighter side, and I personally wish it had a bit more strength. Nevertheless, it is a must-try for those in search of an authentic representation of rain or petrichor.
California Snow takes a lighter approach to petrichor, capturing the scent of rain or snow right before it touches the ground. It successfully portrays the green, moist, ozonic aroma, resembling a milder version of the smell after mowing the lawn. In the mid notes, a hint of sweetness from the rose blends seamlessly with a wet hay/grass accord. During the drydown, the musk and soil tincture achieve a delicate balance. The musk cleverly contributes to the aromatic ozonic scent, while the soil tincture, although light, enhances the petrichor accord.
Compared to Figment Man, which immerses you in the depths of soil, California Snow allows you to experience the scent of the air. It features one of the best petrichor accords I've encountered. However, if you prefer a dirtier and more soil-like experience, I recommend exploring fragrances that utilize patchouli as a basenote.
In terms of performance, California Snow leans towards the lighter side, and I personally wish it had a bit more strength. Nevertheless, it is a must-try for those in search of an authentic representation of rain or petrichor.
Broken Theories
"Broken Theories" takes a notably different opening approach compared to some of the sweeter fragrances within the same line. It presents itself as more transparent, woody, and less dense and sweet in comparison to scents like "Followed" or "Blackmail." The oud note in "Broken Theories" remains unobtrusive, projecting a predominantly woody character, while the incense and tobacco notes take center stage.
This fragrance shares some DNA with "Blackmail" but also exhibits distinct characteristics. "Blackmail" leans toward vanillic and ambery notes, delivering sweetness, whereas "Broken Theories" leans more towards dry woodiness, with only a subtle hint of vanilla, lacking the pronounced sweetness found in its counterpart.
Performance-wise, "Broken Theories" offers decent longevity, though it may not match the powerhouse performance of the sweeter offerings. The combination of woodiness and spices in this fragrance evokes a sense of familiarity with "Bois d'Encens." Although it's not a direct clone, the light spices and dry woodiness create a reminiscent feeling. "Broken Theories" carries a vibe that wouldn't be out of place in the Armani Privé lineup.
While "Broken Theories" boasts higher quality than many designer exclusives and comes at a more affordable price point, it might underwhelm those who were impressed by the outstanding performance and flawless execution of the sweeter fragrances in the same line. However, if you're seeking a straightforward, dry woody scent with hints of incense, tobacco, and subdued spices, "Broken Theories" fits the bill. If sweetness is more to your liking, "Blackmail" would be the preferable choice.
I still went with a full bottle of Followed but give this a sample.
This fragrance shares some DNA with "Blackmail" but also exhibits distinct characteristics. "Blackmail" leans toward vanillic and ambery notes, delivering sweetness, whereas "Broken Theories" leans more towards dry woodiness, with only a subtle hint of vanilla, lacking the pronounced sweetness found in its counterpart.
Performance-wise, "Broken Theories" offers decent longevity, though it may not match the powerhouse performance of the sweeter offerings. The combination of woodiness and spices in this fragrance evokes a sense of familiarity with "Bois d'Encens." Although it's not a direct clone, the light spices and dry woodiness create a reminiscent feeling. "Broken Theories" carries a vibe that wouldn't be out of place in the Armani Privé lineup.
While "Broken Theories" boasts higher quality than many designer exclusives and comes at a more affordable price point, it might underwhelm those who were impressed by the outstanding performance and flawless execution of the sweeter fragrances in the same line. However, if you're seeking a straightforward, dry woody scent with hints of incense, tobacco, and subdued spices, "Broken Theories" fits the bill. If sweetness is more to your liking, "Blackmail" would be the preferable choice.
I still went with a full bottle of Followed but give this a sample.
Athenaeum
"Anthaneaum" opens with a fleeting burst of herbal green sweetness, accompanied by a very subtle green apple note that vanishes within seconds, easily missed if you're not paying close attention. As the fragrance progresses into the mid-phase, the sweetness endures, primarily sustained by honey, while the presence of patchouli begins to emerge. The patchouli in "Anthaneaum" bears resemblance to the type found in "Baie 19," characterized by its non-earthiness and lack of a soil-like quality. Instead, it carries a gentle, watery, and green essence.
Compared to the spiciness of "Carduus" or the cumin-like funkiness of "Arborist," "Anthaneaum" exudes a cleaner and simpler aura. It's highly wearable, approachable, and suitable for both men and women. Unlike "Encre Noire," it doesn't have an inky quality. All the notes, including the honey and beeswax, are expertly blended, resulting in a harmonious composition without any one note overpowering the others.
In terms of performance, "Anthaneaum" delivers commendable longevity, although you may need to reapply a few spritzes throughout the day to maintain its presence. This fragrance is well-suited for the warmer months. In essence, it offers a high-quality fusion of green, watery patchouli, accented by hints of hay and a delicate natural sweetness from the honey. There might be subtle traces of oak and leather lurking in the background, becoming discernible only in the very late stages of the drydown, once the green notes have subsided, leaving a faint woody impression.
Compared to the spiciness of "Carduus" or the cumin-like funkiness of "Arborist," "Anthaneaum" exudes a cleaner and simpler aura. It's highly wearable, approachable, and suitable for both men and women. Unlike "Encre Noire," it doesn't have an inky quality. All the notes, including the honey and beeswax, are expertly blended, resulting in a harmonious composition without any one note overpowering the others.
In terms of performance, "Anthaneaum" delivers commendable longevity, although you may need to reapply a few spritzes throughout the day to maintain its presence. This fragrance is well-suited for the warmer months. In essence, it offers a high-quality fusion of green, watery patchouli, accented by hints of hay and a delicate natural sweetness from the honey. There might be subtle traces of oak and leather lurking in the background, becoming discernible only in the very late stages of the drydown, once the green notes have subsided, leaving a faint woody impression.
Follow
If you found "Followed" a tad too sweet for your liking, you may lean towards "Follow."
This fragrance prominently features a genuine coffee note, accompanied by subtle vanillic undertones. However, it's essential to note that the sweetness factor is significantly toned down in "Follow," amounting to only a fraction of what you find in "Followed."
The coffee note, when sniffed up close, carries a subtle burnt or espresso-like quality. Personally, I yearn for a sweeter touch, perhaps with hints of vanilla or hazelnut, to mellow out the bitter burnt facets.
Although I find the note breakdown of "Follow" more appealing than that of "Followed," the latter wins out in terms of longevity and overall wearability. "Follow" tends to linger closer to the profile of a burnt black coffee, which, while pleasing, might not be something I'd want a full bottle of unless it's layered with something sweeter. I believe you can confidently wear this fragrance throughout the year, with the exception of the scorching summer months, as long as you exercise moderation in its application.
In an ideal scenario, having both "Follow" and "Followed" in your collection would provide versatility to match your mood, but I'm currently on the fence about making a decision. If you're in search of a straightforward, authentic coffee fragrance, then "Follow" could be an excellent choice for you.
This fragrance prominently features a genuine coffee note, accompanied by subtle vanillic undertones. However, it's essential to note that the sweetness factor is significantly toned down in "Follow," amounting to only a fraction of what you find in "Followed."
The coffee note, when sniffed up close, carries a subtle burnt or espresso-like quality. Personally, I yearn for a sweeter touch, perhaps with hints of vanilla or hazelnut, to mellow out the bitter burnt facets.
Although I find the note breakdown of "Follow" more appealing than that of "Followed," the latter wins out in terms of longevity and overall wearability. "Follow" tends to linger closer to the profile of a burnt black coffee, which, while pleasing, might not be something I'd want a full bottle of unless it's layered with something sweeter. I believe you can confidently wear this fragrance throughout the year, with the exception of the scorching summer months, as long as you exercise moderation in its application.
In an ideal scenario, having both "Follow" and "Followed" in your collection would provide versatility to match your mood, but I'm currently on the fence about making a decision. If you're in search of a straightforward, authentic coffee fragrance, then "Follow" could be an excellent choice for you.