Broken Theories Kerosene 2015

Broken Theories speaks directly to my fantasy of trekking home through snowy woods towards my rustic-but-architect-designed log cabin, in Fair Isle leggings that miraculously don’t make my legs look like two ham hocks in a sack, a Golden lab at my side, and the pink-tinged winter sky above my head tilting slowly towards indigo. A thread of sweet, tarry woodsmoke – from a far-off campfire, perhaps, or even the wood burning stove lit by my husband, Mads Mikkelsen – hangs in the cold, crisp air.

Pause and there is the heady scent of scattered forest homes gearing up for the night. Someone is revving their jeep to check if the winter tires are ok. Someone else is smoking a cigar while peeling an orange. Someone is smoking vanilla pods in their shed for some fancy artisanal market niche I’m not aware of. There’s an illicit coal fire in the mix too – not terribly environmental, the neighbors bitch, while surreptitiously gulping in lungfuls of the familiar charred scent of their childhood like junkies.

But the best thing about these aromas in that they are too far off in the distance to distinguish as one thing or another. Sandalwood, leather, oud, tobacco, vanilla, woodsmoke, burning sugar, dried kelp, and tar all melt down into one delicious aroma that is definitely more a collective of environmental ‘smells’ than perfume.

I love Broken Theories and really want a bottle. But the sweet woodsmoke-campfire genre is a crowded one, and bitter experience compels me to be clear-eyed about where this fits in the pecking order. First of all, let me admit that Broken Theories smell very, very indie, and by indie, I mean it smells like a number of popular woodsmoke perfume oils from companies such as Solstice Scents (especially Manor, Manor Fire, Grey’s Cabin, and Inquisitor) and Alkemia (especially Smoke and Mirrors and Fumé Oud à la Vanille). I’m fine with the association but all the same, the indie vanilla-woodsmoke theme (a) does tend to smell a bit samey from brand to brand, (b) is gummily (albeit enjoyably) indistinct, like several woodsmoke stock oils or ‘house notes’ thrown into a jerrycan, and (c) doesn’t carry quite the same degree of elegance as a masstige or luxury perfume featuring woodsmoke, e.g., Bois d’Armenie by Guerlain or Bois d’Ascèse by Naomi Goodsir. That I smell this type of ‘indie-ness’ in the vanilla-woodsmoke aspect of Broken Theories makes me hesitate.

However, I can think of many other perfumes – some of them luxury, some of them prestigious indies -that Broken Theories beats into a corner with a stick, and on balance, that tips the whole decision into the yes direction. For example, while I like Fireside Intense (Sonoma Scent Studio), it is too bitter-smoky for me to wear on the regular without me feeling like I am wearing a hair shirt. Bois d’Ascèse has a similar problem, in that there is a harsh woody aromachemical in the base that makes wearing it a chore – there is no such problem in Broken Theories, which beds down the tougher smoke and oud-leather notes in a balmy vanilla softness that feels as comfy as those fantasy Fair Isle leggings. And Broken Theories is infinitely preferable to the popular By the Fireplace (Marson Martin Margiela), a perfume whose sharp, burnt sugar and viscous campfire or wood aromachemical makes me physically nauseous.

Broken Theories is, however, not as good as Jeke (Slumberhouse) or Black No. 1 (House of Matriarch), other perfumes with a strong campfire or woodsmoke element. But it is cheaper, lighter, and easier to obtain. It is roughly similar – both in quality and execution – to the wonderful Winter Woods by Sonoma Scent Studio, and by process of elimination, I guess I’ve narrowed it down to a choice between this and that.

Conclusion: Broken Theories is one of the best woodsmoke scents on the market today. But it only makes sense if you don’t already have a plethora of other woodsmoke scents to fill that particular niche. My fantasy self and I will be having words. (Edit: I broke down and bought a bottle)

The smell of the monster - very persistent.
Broken Theories is a mix of tobacco, sandalwood, orange, spices, incense and agar.
Who remembers the smell of smoke in disco clubs released from machines, combined with the smell of floating scented cigarillos? For me, this is the fragrance - ehhh- it is unique and great because of it. Memories come alive and besides ... I don't know any perfume like that. And now I'm taking the fragrance and going to a virtual party in a club full of wooden walls, tables and benches filled with smoke and the smell of good aromatic tobacco
I recommend....

"Broken Theories" takes a notably different opening approach compared to some of the sweeter fragrances within the same line. It presents itself as more transparent, woody, and less dense and sweet in comparison to scents like "Followed" or "Blackmail." The oud note in "Broken Theories" remains unobtrusive, projecting a predominantly woody character, while the incense and tobacco notes take center stage.

This fragrance shares some DNA with "Blackmail" but also exhibits distinct characteristics. "Blackmail" leans toward vanillic and ambery notes, delivering sweetness, whereas "Broken Theories" leans more towards dry woodiness, with only a subtle hint of vanilla, lacking the pronounced sweetness found in its counterpart.

Performance-wise, "Broken Theories" offers decent longevity, though it may not match the powerhouse performance of the sweeter offerings. The combination of woodiness and spices in this fragrance evokes a sense of familiarity with "Bois d'Encens." Although it's not a direct clone, the light spices and dry woodiness create a reminiscent feeling. "Broken Theories" carries a vibe that wouldn't be out of place in the Armani Privé lineup.

While "Broken Theories" boasts higher quality than many designer exclusives and comes at a more affordable price point, it might underwhelm those who were impressed by the outstanding performance and flawless execution of the sweeter fragrances in the same line. However, if you're seeking a straightforward, dry woody scent with hints of incense, tobacco, and subdued spices, "Broken Theories" fits the bill. If sweetness is more to your liking, "Blackmail" would be the preferable choice.

I still went with a full bottle of Followed but give this a sample.

This is sharp and industrial. The opening leads with a strong woody dose of incense and tobacco residue that turns dusty quickly. I would argue that if I had to summarize this scent, I would describe it to smell like a vintage dusty couch that someone smoked cigars on for years. Although the description seems unattractive and off-putting, there's definitely an artistic edge that makes the fragrance multidimensional. I don't know that I would wear this but it is a great point of reference if you are seeking an interesting blend of incense and agarwood. I don't detect any vanilla, despite it being listed in the notes, although my suspicion is that the tobacco, incense and agarwood are far too overpowering for any other note to come through very prominently. This is a winter appropriate scent for those that enjoy heavy projecting fragrances, as most by Kerosene tend to be. This is too dusty, powdery cold and vintage for my taste however I appreciate its uniqueness. 

I got this for Christmas as an unexpected gift and it's rapidly displaced every other fragrance in my collection. The blending of tobacco, frankincense, and oud with citrus is truly something incredible. Smells like the incense the priests used to dispense at Easter Vigil in that little metal shaker combined with my grandfather's tobacco pipe. Niche and weird, but warm and comforting (to me at least). I'm going to exhaust this bottle before long.