The main notes which are missing from the note listing

I have been wondering so much this new style how the note pyramids are made. I’m wondering for example "Kemi | XerJoff" where caramel is not listed anymore in their website and in "Kemi | Kemi / Al Kimiya" it was listed and it’s one of the main notes. "Richwood | XerJoff" is Sandalwood perfume but they have taken that note off from the note pyramid. Now I was checking which kind of Vanilla would be the best layering pair with Apple Brandy on the Rocks and I was surprised: Apple is not listed in the notes anymore! This is somewhat hilarious. Does anyone have any idea why? Have you noticed some other perfumes where the one of the main notes is missing from the note list? This is sad because it’s nice to use the tool where you can write the note and you get the perfumes which has that note.

@Ninamariah any time I see a missing note, I submit a revision through the Parfumo research process.

Example: for Apple Brandy on the Rocks , you can see on Kilian's website that Apple and Brandy are both listed as separate notes, but these are not on the pyramid currently.

Simply selecting "Research" > "Submit New Revision" to the listing by adding those notes, along with a screenshot + website link for proof, can help!

Since you noticed the missing notes, I will leave it up to you to submit the revision - but I hope this helps! 🙂

Thank you so much. It took for a while to find where to do it but it's done now. Actually from "Richwood | XerJoff" and from "Kemi | XerJoff" the brand has took those notes away so it's very strange. That's why I wasn't surprised about the missing "apple" either but I'm happy to see that it's still there.

@Ninamariah oh good, so glad you were able to navigate it! 🤗

One thing I try to remember is to keep checking on pending Revision submissions, since you'll get feedback from Mods/Admin on anything else you need to submit before it can be accepted into the database. (I've forgotten to check and missed notifications before! 🙈)

You can review all of your pending Revisions here: https://www.parfumo.com/fdb.ph...

 Best of luck in the research process, it's very fun! 😊

Brands sometimes change the notes lists without significantly changing the fragrance. It's pretty annoying when you can still clearly smell the old notes, but they suddenly decided they want to be minimalists and only list 3 key notes. Parfumo tries to be up to date and list the current notes from the official sources (brand website etc). Always keep in mind that note lists are not really ingredients, but just descriptions the brand uses to market their fragrances.

If you want to see if there has been a different notes list on Parfumo at one point, you can go to the research section from the perfume's page and look through the changes. 

Could it also be because of the new IFRA regulations? Maybe some notes are now made in the lab and too complicated to name them as such? Maybe a silly thought, but I often no longer see aldehydes mentioned (also not on the perfume's website) where they were mentioned before and I can often still clearly smell those (or at least think I smell them). I know some aldehydes are forbidden now so...maybe they are now imitated in the lab which can be a complicated proces. 

Even if something is created in a lab, it can be listed as a note. For example fruity notes (except citrus) are usually lab-made, because you can't extract oils from fruit. Notes are NOT ingredients, they are just descriptions. Listing the name of an aromachemical (for example ambroxan) in the notes is just another marketing decision, brands don't have to do that and usually don't.

Aldehydes were among the first synthetic, lab-made notes, so of course they got mentioned in the notes of perfumes like Chanel No 5. They were something completely new that revolitionized perfumery. Even nowadays, people still think of that kind of scent when they hear they word "aldehydes", because it was so influential. But there are a lot of different aldehydes that don't smell like "aldehydes the perfume note"! Some smell like strawberry or whatever, so it would be contraproductive to list them as aldehydes.

I think aldehydes aren't listed in many scents today because the typical "aldehyde note" scent is not very fashionable currently, so even if something really smells aldehydic, brands might call the note different or decide not to mention it in minimalist note lists in favor of other notes. 

@DogiCoco, thanks! That is very informative! I love aldehydes in many perfumes by the way (as I do love vintage:-)) though I don't like Chanel No 5...Many of my (aldehydic) perfumes are being compared to Chanel No 5 as being 'similar' to that, but I often can't relate to that. I do often notice though that the aldehydes I smell in current 'aldehydic' perfumes are now less 'fatty' than in the originals as is the case with Estée by Estee Lauder (sorry, it won't appear after entering #).