Mikayla 4 months ago
3
Jacques Edouard Guerlain: The Legacy of a Master of Perfumery
of the day. In this way, he wanted to better understand the nuances and subtleties of the notes in order to achieve the desired quality and harmony in his creations. His attitude to perfection and his striving for the highest quality were also reflected in his critical nature. He was considered picky and sometimes harsh in his judgments. But it was his extremely exacting...
Mikayla 11 months ago
4
1
A fragrance journey to West Africa: Gallivant presents "Accra"
notes of tobacco and styrax provide a smoky and distinctive note. The base note exudes a sensual accord of leather, cedar, musk and patchouli, complemented by the essence of splendour card and a subtle note of vinyl.Accra (Gallivant)The composition was created by Stéphanie Bakouche. Nick Seward, founder of Gallivant, describes his new fragrance as a tribute...
BrianBuchanan 1 year ago
6
1
Are Feminines Becoming More Masculine?
Some Background In the past, masculine perfume, and perfume in general, tended to keep itself in check. In the seventies there were things like Yatagan, Grey Flannel and Z-14, which had strong characters but weren't that strong in sillage. Before them there was the odd thing like Aramis or Jicky, but generally masculines were quite well behaved. Then came the eighties - when feminine...
Mikayla 1 year ago
15
8
A Time Travel Through Perfume History
new fragrances such as heliotropin, vanillin, coumarin and aldehydes revolutionized the world of fragrances and ushered in a new era of modern perfumery.Perfumers were quick to recognize the new creative possibilities offered by the chemical industry. Particularly groundbreaking was the perfume "Jicky" by Guerlain in 1889, which was the first to contain synthetically produced...
Bcars10 7 years ago
2
My first blog post
I have. For this past Christmas my kids gave me Stella McCartney Pop and Acqua di Gioia, just as I was reading a couple of books on perfume. Then I went all-out nuts! Sampling different perfumes have now become sort of a mission for me. I would really like to experience some of the classics, like Jicky and Mitsouko and Cinnabar and lots of others. I did get my hands on L'Air du Temps with a Christmas gift card,...
Exciter76 7 years ago
3
"Knowing" when a review turns into a blog post
to go there). It was a perfume for seduction. It wasn’t meant to be pretty or fun. Knowing had a job to do and she did it so very well. I do not know how else to describe it so I’ll share a memory from my younger years._____________________________________________I went to my first Stevie Nicks concert in August 1991. I wasn’t fifteen yet but I thought I was nearly a woman—I...
jtd 8 years ago
4
2
Mythology
models’ panties at runway shows. (Freud was right. Queer perversion follows a model of stunted psychosexual development. Alternate meaning: Girl-on-girl porn is hot, dude.)There are countless others. Overdosage and aroma-material stories like Chanel 5 and the bucket of aldehyde. Shalimar=Jicky + a shitload of vanilla. Samsara contained 30% sandalwood. Lancome’s La Vie Est Belle tips the scales at 4% ethylmaltol.It’s...
jtd 9 years ago
3
The Fougère Project
flowers, wood, spunk, leather or pipe; or, 2) perfumes must tell or have a story.Number 2 bothers me to no end. It's effectively internalized marketing: accepting the narrative that make you desire the products. Some Apocryphal stories are better than others, though:* story: Aimée Guerlain named Jicky after a lost love. outcome: Innocuous, cute.* story: Oscar de la Renta wanted a perfume that reminded him of his tropical...
jtd 9 years ago
3
Flanker Strategies
Mugler would like you to believe that all the Angel iterations are Variations on a Theme when they are actually the worst of Milking the Cow. Variations work when thoughtful: Iris Poudre and Ferrre by Gianfranco Ferre by Pierre Bourdon; Aromatics Elixir and AE Perfumer’s Reserve. How about Jicky/Shalimar and Apres l’Ondee/l’Heure Bleue.** Two strategies that rest on the intentions of those employing them...
jtd 9 years ago
2
The Limits of the Fragrance Wheel
it from fermented tonka beans. These chemical were still tethered, albeit tentatively, to a supposition of an essential, irrefutable "nature" as found in botanical and animal-derived materials. The cracks in this 'natural world' view of perfumery were apparent by the time Fougère Royale and Jicky were made, but the fallacy of perfumery recreating nature has been recycled over and over again...
jtd 9 years ago
2
1
Richard Lüscher Britos Terroir Perfumes, 2013
method.Like the bergamot in RLB’s 38°N 16°E, lavender is a tough prospect for a perfumer. It is well-known in perfumery and more broadly for skin and body care as well its use as an environmental antiseptic. In classical perfumery, Houbigant Fougère Royale (Paul Parquet, 1882 ), Guerlain Jicky (Aimé Guerlain, 1889) and Caron Pour un Homme (Ernest Daltroff, 1934) form a triangle...
jtd 9 years ago
2
1
wtf is niche anyway?
her brand. Kern went to the heart of the matter driving a spike between tradition and classicism, a pairing that went largely unquestioned through the niche era. Her perfumes show the range of abstraction and expressivity that is at the heart of classicism. They might comment on tradition (eg. Jicky/Kiki) but they are unorthodox and unencumbered. (Note. My bias if you couldn’t already spot it: The Heartnotes...