![ClaireV]()
ClaireV
Helpful Review
2
Under its spell
I respect and admire Anatole Lebreton's work, but Grimoire in particular stands out at being special. Not everyone will like it, and I think it's fair to say that the perfume has a cool, remote air that means it must select you, not the other way around. Setting out to smell like the thick dust that rises off a book of spells (a grimoire, in French) when closed shut, it combines a set of ashy resin notes with the earthy red-brown dampness of cumin.
It's a riff on the idea of Gris Clair but better, more successful because the dust tamps down the screech of lavender and makes it feel genuinely restful. It's also monastically, ascetically dry. But the scent manages to capture dryness without filling the scent with the usual nose-scrapingly dry aromachemicals, for which I'm genuinely grateful.
As a side-note, I've smelled a couple of perfumes that seek to recreate the feeling or smell of dry, hot dust from a desert. L'Air du Desert Marocain, of course, was the trail blazer in this area, but it's been followed by two equally costly niche fragrances, namely, Sheiduna by Puredistance and Taklamakan by SHL 777. These two perfumes demonstrate the risk and rewards associated with using the new generation of potently dry, woody-ambery aromachemicals: Sheiduna fails miserably, becoming a white, massively radiant ball of pain to those sensitive to scratchy aromachemicals, and Taklamakan succeeds, emitting a low pulse of warm, ambery 'sand' and dry patchouli aromas that smell toasted, dry, and yet comfortable to wear and to smell.
In Grimoire, the dryness feels cool and almost ashy. It gains an element of warmth, however, from the rather generous dose of cumin featured in this scent. The cumin adds a nice human touch to the cool dustiness of the lavender and incense, like the sweet, damp, oniony sweat under the arms of an ancient gardener tending a Mediterranean herb garden. The aromatic, simmering heat of the spice and the elemi makes the base of the scent feel hot to the touch, a nice contrast to the cool dryness of the top half. Grimoire is surprisingly easy to wear, and has a natural elegance to it that doesn't labor any particular point. Have you ever seen the photos of the Italian men coming and going from the Pitti men's fashion shows in September? This scent is the living embodiment of that.