Celestial Patchouli Sana Jardin 2017

There is an almost pungent ‘apricot mead’ note in the opening of Celestial Patchouli that smells like a bowl of plums or peaches crawling with rot and mould. Now, that doesn’t sound too attractive, but without it, this would be just a patchouli flanker version of Tiger by Her Side. I get the impression, too, of a sharp, lean ‘Safraleine’ style leather swimming underneath, which adds an astringent ‘iodine’ like slant to the boozy opening. It is spicy and rich and sour, with tons of depth. The patchouli is feathered out at the sides by a plethora of resins and balsams, which dries it up and turns the booze into a handful of brown dust. (This seems to be a sort of Sana Jardin cut-and-paste model for their more resin-forward stuff.)

Despite the heavy basenote materials used, and that initial wallop of grunge, Celestial Patchouli seems to shed richness and density by the minute, before becoming a ghost of its initial self by hour three. The drydown, though pale, is a pleasant amber.

In its defence, I guess that means it could be an office-friendly scent as long as you spray it on well before your commute. I like it a lot but find it overlaps a little too much with Tiger by Her Side and much of my own patchouli collection to be seriously interested. Sticky Fingers by Francesca Bianchi is in a similar vein, but much better. If this is your one and only, though, Celestial Patchouli is interesting and different enough to take a chance on.

....through fields and meadows. The edge of the forest nearby. I enjoyed the dawn of bergamot and spicy coriander at the beginning of my hike. I linger in the morning, as wild roses open their buds and release their spicy-floral scent. By the pond, wonderfully blue irises grow, sprinkling fine powder into the combination. Still a bit cool, but I can already sense the coming warmth of the afternoon.
From the sunlit, still slightly damp forest, aromatic woody scents waft over, pleasantly tickling my nose. I want to continue, past flower-filled meadows with tall grasses, whose fine panicles rustle softly in the wind. Closer to the forest and then into it, to explore. I linger in the late afternoon. The heat stays "outside," pleasant warmth here. On a bench by the forest path. Scents accompany me, herbaceous, earthy, and beautiful. Patchouli and woods create this impression.
Before evening falls, I begin my journey home. I slowly leave the meadows and fields behind. And before I arrive, the scents accompany me, all intertwined and united, that I experienced on my hike. Deep and long-lasting, darkening and after sunset, when it becomes cooler again, an echo of the warm day.

Perfumes are ultimately luxury products - no one really 'needs' them, even though life is much more beautiful with them. And precisely because of this, often more serious topics, such as sustainability, fair working conditions, and animal protection are overlooked. Sana Jardin has committed itself - at least according to its own statement - to these very issues. Orange blossom, jasmine, and rose are harvested by Moroccan women, who use the absolutes for the brand's fragrances, but also process the 'waste' generated by them into floral water and candles, providing the women with an additional income. All products from Sana Jardin are also made without animal testing. Manufacturers far too rarely commit to social and ecological standards, and I must admit that I have also engaged too little with this - unlike with food or clothing, for example.

I wouldn't necessarily describe Celestial Patchouli as 'heavenly', but the scent strikes me as very natural and high-quality. The only, but for me quite significant, downside is the initially strong leather note, which consequently steals the show from the patchouli. I only rarely like leather and it can ruin one or the other fragrance for me. Despite this presence, I feel (not only because of the listed notes) somewhat reminded of Chanel's Coromandel. The soft patchouli, the warm, slightly creamy sandalwood, the bright resinousness, and spiciness also merge here into a sensual fragrance experience. Celestial Patchouli is not as powdery as Coromandel, which does not strike me as floral in contrast. (Iris is not a distinctly floral note for me - after all, the scent comes from its root.) Rose and osmanthus, which also has a leathery facet, were used by Carlos Benaim in a rather moderate dose.
In my opinion, the leather plays more of a role as a top note and fades over time, allowing the warm base notes to unfold even more. On my skin, the fragrance undergoes quite a significant transformation, as it becomes softer and more chocolatey - much more than with Coromandel - while not being too sweet/gourmand.

By the way, Celestial Patchouli is not a loud perfume, but it is evenly perceivable for several hours. In one test, I applied three sprays about nine to ten hours beforehand and then exercised, and I could immediately smell the fragrance again. So, one cannot speak of moderate longevity. Like Coromandel, I clearly see Celestial Patchouli as a unisex scent that should definitely be tested on the skin and with sufficient patience.