
ClaireV
2
New spin on vanilla
Now, this is an interesting vanilla. At first, I thought I’d heard the tune multiple times already – a green but sticky, ambery vanilla, kind of like a mash up of a sweeter Eau Duelle (Diptyque) and a less spicy Ani (Nishane), freshly painted with two coats of Lord of Misrule (Lush). A bit of a cacophony, yeah, but really nice, with a true vanilla extract note eventually fighting its way out of all that to take centre stage.
In the drydown, however, as soon as you take your eye off it, Vanilla Nomad seems to side-swerve into a lemony, piney frankincense note made into sherbet by a powdery benzoin. The incense note is truly very good – not smoky, exactly, but lean, scintillating, and almost fresh. It brings gravitas to what would otherwise be a nice but standard ambery-patch-vanilla affair.
Another surprise in the far drydown – a milk and honey accord made gritty-smoky with resins, which gives the perfume a link, no matter how far-fetched, to the drydown of Absolue Pour le Soir (MFK). Better yet is the aromatic, almost civety sandalwood powder accord that shows up, similar to the one in Jicky, strangely enough, which lends the scent a deep, winey lusciousness. Whether this was by design or a complete accident I do not know. Again, a little derivative of other, arguably better perfumes, but I can’t deny that smelling all of these bits and pieces of other perfumes in one place makes for a deeply satisfying experience.