02/26/2021
Intersport
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Intersport
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As interesting as it is banal. Ultræ smells exactly as described and commented on here: Dry Clean, Dry, Hot, Electronic Wrap, Dry Again, and Electric Trade, or as the ODOR Characteristics of the perfume's distributors put it, "Aldehydic, Dry, Woody, Clean, Warm, Hot Iron, Amber Undertone." Rarely have I come across a perfume that I perceive as so identical to its package insert. This is not surprising, as these linguistic descriptors of ingredients are something that is carefully weighed by the big companies in the fragrance industry, with sensory tests, questionnaires and pi pa po. Ultræ is one of the better releases from Aether, a company whose raison d'etre is based on two concepts: Perfumes that refer to one or a few molecules, which may have had its origins with Helmut Lang's Velviona, and with the industrial notes that came out big with Comme des Garçons Odeur 53 and 71, and especially via Series 6: Synthetic. Ultræ almost sounds like it zoomed in on a few facets of Odeur 53 and intensified them. As much as I like explicitly synthetic perfumes, there's something not coherent about this one, a technical perfume, in a staid, 'precious' glass bottle with a golden lid that could also be any snooty water in it, and since recently, an image campaign reminiscent of CK1 ads 20 years ago, only in hip. It's definitely worth a test, the dry cleansing accord is realistic and impressive. A replacement for Comme des Garçons Dry Clean (2004) it is unfortunately not, that was much more opulent and moist, who is looking for a lighter and also more complex implementation of such notes, should test Odeur 53 or 71
