02/22/2021
Intersport
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Intersport
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Odeur 53 is perhaps one of the most discreetly influential perfumes of the late 90s, whether you like it or not. Odeur 53 sparked an interest and appreciation of synthesized ingredients that, until the time of its release in 1998, was only communicated so directly and euphorically in the late 19th century when synthetic fragrances were introduced to the market (see advertisements such as those by Piesse & Lubin, with headlines like "At last! Synthetic Scents"). Now, February 2021, even the Artisto house par excellence, Hermès mentions that a special aroma chemical is prominently at work in its new men's fragrance. Granted: Comme des Garçons has worked with Odeur 53, Odeur 71, and the presumably resulting Series 6: Synthetic (2004), still largely with linguistic descriptors, in order to lead what is smelled, although away from the conventional perfume ingredients speak, but still with more or less comprehensible experiences to connect.
When I saw Odeur 53 for the first time, in New York's Comme des Garçons store on Wooster Street, with no explanation of what was inside, I was delightedly speechless and thrilled by an encounter that was so hard to put into words. A 15ml bottle soon followed. It was only much later that I heard about the high Hedione content and wonder here: if there are indeed 53 components, and over 60% of the formula is already seized by Hedione, then the other 40% or so must be balancing the remaining 52 ingredients (a plethora?) quite skillfully. The authors of this perfume were probably Anne Sophie Chapuis and Martine Pallix, Pallix who has been working at International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. since the end of the 60's. The database here knows only three entries about Madame Pallix, which suggests that she works either in research or in the huge part of functional perfumery, which these manufacturers also play. Such expertise would also fit Odeur 53 perfectly. The timing of the release was interesting in that this was also a complete about-face away from the spicy Eau de Parfum and Eau de Cologne (both 1994). Maximum Distance. Marc Atlan's brutalist 200ml bottle and anti-static foil also suggested a new Funktionaliaet in packaging, which was subsequently seen more and more often. The perfume, which is probably also John Waters favorite, as he 1) Rei Kawakubo's statement that she basically does not care about perfumes, and that these 2) may well be 'gone' in 15 minutes, remains for me, as well as the slightly more voluminous Odeur 71 (possibly also by Pallix), among my favorites, especially in winter and spring.
When I saw Odeur 53 for the first time, in New York's Comme des Garçons store on Wooster Street, with no explanation of what was inside, I was delightedly speechless and thrilled by an encounter that was so hard to put into words. A 15ml bottle soon followed. It was only much later that I heard about the high Hedione content and wonder here: if there are indeed 53 components, and over 60% of the formula is already seized by Hedione, then the other 40% or so must be balancing the remaining 52 ingredients (a plethora?) quite skillfully. The authors of this perfume were probably Anne Sophie Chapuis and Martine Pallix, Pallix who has been working at International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. since the end of the 60's. The database here knows only three entries about Madame Pallix, which suggests that she works either in research or in the huge part of functional perfumery, which these manufacturers also play. Such expertise would also fit Odeur 53 perfectly. The timing of the release was interesting in that this was also a complete about-face away from the spicy Eau de Parfum and Eau de Cologne (both 1994). Maximum Distance. Marc Atlan's brutalist 200ml bottle and anti-static foil also suggested a new Funktionaliaet in packaging, which was subsequently seen more and more often. The perfume, which is probably also John Waters favorite, as he 1) Rei Kawakubo's statement that she basically does not care about perfumes, and that these 2) may well be 'gone' in 15 minutes, remains for me, as well as the slightly more voluminous Odeur 71 (possibly also by Pallix), among my favorites, especially in winter and spring.
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