Top Notes 
Bergamot
Grapefruit
Rose
Heart Notes 
Absinth
Coumarin
Peru balsam
Base Notes 
Cedar
Irish ambergris
Oakmoss
Thai oud
Smellemental
75 Reviews
Smellemental
A soaring and swimming Oud fougère…
Oooh this is fascinating. Right off the top, bergamot, sour grapefruit and a green, zesty effervescence—foaminess even! I’ve never experienced this particular texture before. A lot of citrus rind, including bitter aspects. Super natural. I can still hardly believe the texture from up close. I’ve smelt mossy blends before, but is this what true oakmoss does to a blend? Incredible… Rose petals also provide some velvety softness.
Heart of absinthe, coumarin, and Peru balsam soon begins spilling in and warming up the affair, the foamy connotations transitioning to smoky, and a sweet, herbal hay scent pervading, with the oud and salty ambergris beginning to sneak up in the background…
Eventually settles on a complex base made up of appreciable doses of incensey and ancient Thai oud, marine ambergris, plush oakmoss and cedar. Incredibly good.
Sillage intimate to moderate, longevity excellent. Definitely a contender for my favorite oud fougère, which at the date of this publication is UCCA’s Universal Fougère, but I think the significant presence of ambergris here complicates it’s categorization a bit. It’s hard to tell what’s most prominent in the base, they all seem to be vying for first place… and that makes it a little more complex than a typical fougère—even more complex than a typical oud fougère. This is nearly a beast of it’s own. In any case it’s awesome. I don’t know if I consider it a ‘must try’ for lovers of the three main base ingredients or those already familiar with Agar Aura’s intoxicating oud, but… very nearly. I’ve witnessed the interplay between ambergris and oud before, but I don’t recall witnessing it so abundantly mixed with oakmoss before… and the results are fascinating. There’s another accord between them here I can’t quite yet name—maybe I’ll come back if it comes to me.
Edit: I take back not knowing which is prominent. The oud comes through first in the end, seconded by oakmoss, ambergris third, as one would probably initially imagine. I also no longer have any qualms about categorizing this as an oud fougère with a bit of warm, marine ambergris deftly mixed in. Considerable as a more richly balsamic alternative to Blu.
For 3g for just $180, I consider it an incredible deal!
Bravo, good sir!!!
Heart of absinthe, coumarin, and Peru balsam soon begins spilling in and warming up the affair, the foamy connotations transitioning to smoky, and a sweet, herbal hay scent pervading, with the oud and salty ambergris beginning to sneak up in the background…
Eventually settles on a complex base made up of appreciable doses of incensey and ancient Thai oud, marine ambergris, plush oakmoss and cedar. Incredibly good.
Sillage intimate to moderate, longevity excellent. Definitely a contender for my favorite oud fougère, which at the date of this publication is UCCA’s Universal Fougère, but I think the significant presence of ambergris here complicates it’s categorization a bit. It’s hard to tell what’s most prominent in the base, they all seem to be vying for first place… and that makes it a little more complex than a typical fougère—even more complex than a typical oud fougère. This is nearly a beast of it’s own. In any case it’s awesome. I don’t know if I consider it a ‘must try’ for lovers of the three main base ingredients or those already familiar with Agar Aura’s intoxicating oud, but… very nearly. I’ve witnessed the interplay between ambergris and oud before, but I don’t recall witnessing it so abundantly mixed with oakmoss before… and the results are fascinating. There’s another accord between them here I can’t quite yet name—maybe I’ll come back if it comes to me.
Edit: I take back not knowing which is prominent. The oud comes through first in the end, seconded by oakmoss, ambergris third, as one would probably initially imagine. I also no longer have any qualms about categorizing this as an oud fougère with a bit of warm, marine ambergris deftly mixed in. Considerable as a more richly balsamic alternative to Blu.
For 3g for just $180, I consider it an incredible deal!
Bravo, good sir!!!
Updated on 10/03/2025
Caligari
