Scriptorium is a Latin word meaning “place to write”. It was a place where books were written, copied, and illuminated by hand. A scribe wrote the text for a book and an artist, called an illuminator, painted the paintings and decorations. Scribes and illuminators made each book by hand. Monks often wrote and illuminated manuscripts (handmade books) in monasteries. They wrote books on parchment made from sheep or goat skin. The skins of the animals were stretched and scraped so that they were smooth enough to write on. Precious materials, such as gold leaf and ground gemstones, were used to decorate the pages of the manuscripts.
Can you imagine the smell of leather mixed with that parchment and ink? Imagine living in 500 AD, and entering a library, or scriptorium, where workers handle covers and sheets made of leather and parchment, or papyrus, ink pots and bird feathers filled with ink. Well, if you don’t have that much imagination, or if you are not among those who can perceive a smell simply by representing the object or situation that is the source of the scent in the mind, then you have to smell Intense Vibrant Leather. This cologne, which belongs to the ZARA Vibrant Leather Collection released on the market this fall of 2022, is not
Vibrant Leather Intense. They are not the same perfume, I own them both, and I assure you that the fragrances are anything but the same or similar. With Intense Vibrant Leather, we face a masterpiece worthy of a niche, even if it belongs to a brand designer, ZARA, precisely. When I saw the names of the perfumes on the shelves, I immediately thought of a reissue with new packaging. I tried Intense and Encens but only bought the last one I didn’t own and passed the former. But after a while, Intense grew into something smoky, spicy, and papery, which I didn’t remember among the myriad of ZARA scents I own or I smelt. Still, it differs from the Vibrant Leather Intense version already released a couple of years ago.
Let’s pursue the reading of the Vibrant Leather Intense book. It starts dark, opaque, dense, resinous, pungent, and spicy. I immediately feel something dry, the smell of aged paper, a smoky leather, a damp, herbaceous green tinge. I have reapplied and checked it several times, and I felt no citrus note, nothing sour or acid. Instead, there is an explosion of fresh spiciness from the blend of peppercorns, solid black and soft pink. Zara mentions Schinus Molle, which is a fake pepper with floral and rosy facets. This opening screams virility and spiciness. I bet the dewy grass feel comes from the bamboo cane and its leaves, while some earthiness rises from the base, a kind of old-school patchouli, dirty, and forceful. This opening is sensational, something unusual that is rarely met in ordinary perfumes.
The heart introduces gummy elemi that magically blends with the peppercorns, now toned down but still alive. The elemi is resinous, very fresh, and spicy, with a piney and balsamic nuance and citrus twist, lemony but not citric. On the paper strip, I get a fishy hint, the pleasant smell of fresh fish. Instead, with the warmth of the skin, the fragrance takes a fumy and woody way. There is no trace of powderiness or soapiness in this perfume, but only a hint of velvety green geranium. I hope I did not scare you with the fishlike comparison. It’s only on paper and just for a little while.
A dry, woodsy, and papery accord announces the dry-down. The papyrus comes dry, and along with the sandalwood, the trail is akin to #santal 33; I receive the same vibes, and the dry woodiness is the same. I think Jérôme Epinette did a great job with this creation. There is a hue of dirtiness from the patchouli leaves, which is more intense now. A smidgen of medicinal oud and an abundant dose of leather darkens and completes the base.
Ultimately, Intense Vibrant Leather smells like a medieval scriptorium, I can feel it. It is an autumn scent for autumn, no doubt. The medicinal, leathery and smoky reflections are made to adapt to autumn, cool, damp days and evenings. I can wear it on a lazy day at home, but I don’t think it’s safe or suitable for the office. However, social and evening events are the right occasions for this outrageous, mysterious, and sensual perfume. Since I haven’t seriously worn it yet, I can’t judge its sillage, projection or longevity. There are no feminine moments or touches here, although a woman can wear it and be proud of it. However, the cologne has a clear bias towards masculinity. If it happens, give it a chance. It deserves it, and it won’t let you down. This is the end of the reading, but the smell is not over. Well done @Jérôme Epinette.
I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since October 2022.
-Elysium
Bamboo
Bergamot
Black pepper
Elemi resin
Geranium
Leather
Lemon
Oud
Patchouli
Peruvian pepper tree
Tobacco
Knurled Envelope
Herkules762
Pauline1966
MichH
Marc27
BebeBazi
Unit
VentoAureo
