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Vetyver Chantecaille 2007

6.0 / 10 21 Ratings

A perfume by Chantecaille for women and men, released in 2007. The scent is spicy-woody. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Spicy

Woody

Green

Resinous

Synthetic

Fragrance Notes

Hyacinth

Cedar

Benzoin

Frankincense

Ambergris

Cardamom

Clementine

Gaiac wood

Labdanum

Orris butter

Pink pepper

Paralyzed Stapler

Ratings

Scent

6.021 Ratings

Longevity

7.419 Ratings

Sillage

6.718 Ratings

Bottle

6.627 Ratings

Submitted by Michael, last update on 11/09/2023.

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Reviews

4 in-depth fragrance descriptions

03/15/2020

9Scent 8Longevity

Fhfhfh
8 Reviews

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Fhfhfh

Helpful Review 7

We Forest Runners

Well, we forest runners have it tough. I'm not saying this to elicit sympathy.
Our favorite ingredients are fleeting, like ghosts in daylight. Fir, spruce, larch, conifer, juniper (forest?) & co.: as rapid top notes (= spirit from the bottle) they overwhelm us and deceive us into believing in eternal fulfillment (= lasting durability). But the beautiful illusion quickly collapses - usually within minutes. Often, a grumbling mixture of oak moss (lasts long, but isn't really very forest-like), earthy patchouli notes (nothing against that) and/or general woodiness (cedar and family) follows.
But that is not what the forest runner is looking for.
He wants to immerse himself in the shady, moist green beneath the trees - and wants to linger there. It can be earthy/mushroomy (but not too much), it can be bitter (but definitely not sweet), woody-green anyway - and it should be allowed to develop. But it must remain forest.
"Tears of Eros" - I don't want to go further into the name, see below - offers this: you enter the forest, and a beautiful, diverse spectrum of aromas unfolds. Over time, the little concoction retains its character, changes as well, but also stays strong on track - with great performance. So, the grand world theater does not take place here - everything remains in the forest. And that is far more than other representatives of the genre have to offer.

To briefly address two peculiar reservations.
* "Tears of Eros" is really a silly name. It shares this with about 70% of all perfume names. I have long found it incomprehensible how an industry that belongs to the luxury segment, where everything must be perfect - packaging, advertising, faces, costumes - can launch so many silly names. Can't they afford the 25€ for a linguistically creative employee? It remains a mystery. However, it also remains incomprehensible to me how such a silly name can become the subject of a fragrance critique.
* I cannot understand how so much is said about "synthetic" ingredients here. It is well known that well over 80% of all scent substances in contemporary perfumery consist of aromatic chemical compounds - this does not stand out particularly here, with ToE, (in contrast to, for example, 98.5% of all substances labeled "oud," which are usually 100% synthetic and smell that way). Why "synthetics" are particularly noted here - I cannot comprehend.
Finally, the details I often look for: We are talking about an EdP with a retail price of 155€ for 50ml (2020.03).
It was worth the price to me. Also in light of the fact that 19 reviewers could only muster a 58% rating. A, in my view, grossly undervalued stock.
This is the opinion of a forest runner.
People who prefer to stay in their comfort zone may want to keep their distance. It's not for everyone (but it's also not extreme in any way).

11/16/2016

6.5Scent 7Longevity 8Sillage

Meggi
1018 Reviews

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Meggi

Top Review 25

Hearty Howl

The Greek gods were the worse humans. Unrestrained, self-righteous, their misdeeds all too often unpunished - and when they were, it was not infrequently only through that form of regret that springs from selfishness rather than understanding. Figures to whom the undeserved power bestowed did not do well.

Eros - depending on the era, a youth or a child. He would have been no exception in terms of discipline, especially since his core competency demands just the opposite. How might such a one cry? Streams of bitter tears, of course.

He weeps Hyacinth (Narcissus would describe it equally), briefly sharpened by citrus fruit, then brightened. Nevertheless, it remains extraordinarily strong and in its own way stinky. Directly on the skin, this is quite a challenge, which becomes even more demanding after a few minutes with another bitter twist - the iris joins in. The Angelica suspicion of my esteemed predecessor is, by the way, not to be dismissed. If I combine this and another of his hints, a vague line can indeed be drawn to Angeliques Sous La Pluie by Frédéric Malle, an Ellena work (with, by the way, one of the most astonishing top notes ever).

However, "Tears of Eros" does not reach that stylish elegance. This is not only due to the rough early bloomer but also to the citrus note. Today, it opts for the fizzy powder direction, and after ten minutes, a fine fizz begins. Fresh and bright as well as sparkling becomes the scent, always assuming that a safe distance from the skin is maintained. Then the bitter tears spray in a high arc - like in a cartoon.

After half an hour, the bitter-stinky constant bombardment starts to annoy me. But it will take a good hour before the scent begins to round off. Gradually. Sweet resin and spices create a wide bouquet of aromas. Nevertheless, a disturbing factor remains, certainly intended. A now less stinky than piercing note that bitter-sharply rises from the scent, I think of citrus peel. Also somehow something burnt. Guessing.... Perhaps the guaiac wood here is relieved of its H-cream aspects and focuses solely on the burnt.

By midday, the sharp note is also captured again. Finally, I can smell real pink pepper. A creamy sweetness, just a hint, caresses from below, while the scent loses bitterness from above. Gradually, the hyacinth fragment transforms into a bright woody note that feels wonderfully unartificial. As it progresses, the scent oscillates between bright-spicy wood and the piercing remnants.

After five hours, the piercing is practically completely gone, and in the end, a bright, citrus-woody revamped incense forms, far less fizzy or lemonade-like than in Sancti or Italian Citrus, but it roughly goes in that direction. I like it. However, this most beautiful part of the scent has turned out rather quiet, and it ends as a white-sour incense on some light wood around the eighth hour. Too bad, I would have liked more of that.

Conclusion: Hard to evaluate. I give the beautiful ending part a slight overweight.

09/24/2016

4Scent 7Longevity 6Sillage

RobGordon
15 Reviews

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RobGordon

Top Review 14

For Poetry, I Lack the Muse!

Sometimes I get annoyed with myself. If I could remember which fragrance is being shamelessly copied here, I could spare myself the effort of a comment. Warning about fragrances usually also works through a statement, if I feel like it.

It has happened before that the penny drops while writing, but my memory is currently so clouded by this fragrance attempt that I have no hopes here.

It’s probably not just the fragrance itself that moves me to type, but rather the background research. Who can be so brazen as to bottle something like this and even charge money for it? My motivation goes by the name Paul Schütze.

With these multi-talented artists, it’s a tricky business; no one dares to rein them in. And so it happens that an image and sound artist suddenly has the inspiration to torture you olfactorily as well. The "also" already implies that a well-meaning "cobbler, stick to your last" does not sufficiently clarify what that might be.

He is not a perfumer. And you can smell that. At least I believe him that he had no Schützen help. He doesn’t seem to be the illegitimate nose of Jean Claude Ellena either. At least not with this fragrance:

Aside from the fact that it drives me crazy because I still can’t recall the name of the fragrance that is based on the same nerve factor DNA, Tears of Eros, yes, it really is tearful, presents its rendezvous with a bitter cloud. One could dismiss it as an Angelica-alcohol note if one didn’t secretly peek at the ground-level pyramid.

It quickly clears, and already it rattles between the ears. It is not French-Lover that is being seasoned here with pink pepper. And yet I constantly have the impression of having the top note of FL in my nose (Galbanum-Pimento), which is disguised here with a slice of lemon and a host of pink pepper.

And now it gets really bizarre:
It seems as if the citrus aspects slowly gain the upper hand and form a pulsating bubble of chlorine with sulfur sprinkles together with the pink pepper (otherwise one of my absolute favorite ingredients), which appears more synthetic than ever before. And with this image in mind, one might still try to synthesize.
Metallic citrus synthetic would be the attempt to simplify the experience, but it doesn’t hit exactly. And as if the astonishment were not perfect, the fragrance then seems to reflect the top note again, somewhat dimmed.

The fragrance is listed as spicy-woody. Perhaps a chip from a nano-toothpick? Not that anyone is more disappointed than I am.

Unisex? Maybe for ladies who olfactorily practice contraception. The only somewhat authentically wearable women's fragrance would be "Cirebon." It’s just "nice" enough. And the good thing is, in the sauna landscape of your chosen thermal region, you won’t stand out unpleasantly with it.

No criticism without praise. The third in the bunch is truly successful. "Behind the Rain" is so good that I can hardly believe Paul Schütze is the creator and not just the namesake. It may be that this was his lucky shot, but every thought of this botched stuff here, with its synthetic pepper aura, immediately makes me doubt again.

The value chain in fragrances obviously knows no bounds, which has also reportedly affected the perception of longevity. The series is neither a sillage nor longevity monster. After 6-7 hours, the fragrance circus is over, which is a rare relief here.

08/08/2016

8Scent 9Longevity 8Sillage

Stefanu155
5 Reviews

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Stefanu155

Top Review 16

Dangerous Hyacinths

Mythological flowers.
Daffodils.
Violets.
Anemones.
Hyacinths...
Only detours lead to a destination.
Apollo had his eye on the beautiful boy Hyakinthos. In a competition, he threw a discus at him, which the youth, wanting to impress the god, tried to catch. In doing so, he was struck so unfortunately on the head by the disc that he fell lifeless to the ground. The god made a red flower sprout from his blood, the hyacinth, which in Greek was referred to with the lament "Ai Ai".
Tears of Eros.
Only detours...
George Bataille provides in his book "The Tears of Eros" a kind of illustrated cultural history about the original connection and later separation of the complex of Eros, death, and religion. Religion finds in eroticism at the beginning a kind of bodily-spiritual resonance, eroticism is the becoming-religious, the elevation of sexual mechanics against the horizon of mortality and transgression.
Pleasure. Pain. Grief. Ecstasy.
Tears of Eros.
Paul Schütze says: "You're right, the name of the dangerous hyacinth comes from Bataille. That's not a reference that anyone else will understand, but I think you can imagine what I'm getting at."
To be honest, not quite. But I am circling the scent -- through detours.
The website says: "The artist's studio: Winter; incense from the Sanju Sangendo temple in Kyoto, a bowl of discarded tangerine peels, and a night-blooming hyacinth. Moonlight in the open windows. The scents merge with a narcotic, intoxicating vibrant incense."
Detours and side paths.
But we are getting closer to the perfume.
Of Paul Schütze's three scents, this one resists description the most; with the others, an image always emerged at some point that provided me with a hook for an approach. This one is, first of all: very peculiar.
It develops very differently in warm and cold temperatures; it loves the evening and cool weather; in heat, the floral heart actually rises a little too much to the head. Not a scent for a hot August day, while it looks quite different on an August evening.
So I smell a strongly fragrant, already wilting flower, with a slightly sharp incense tip and a "flower" (always these flowers...) that faintly reminds one of brandy, which somehow gains grounding with wood. I would undoubtedly describe the bloom here as a heart note that characterizes the scent throughout its long duration and, in this context, also irritates. It does not sleep, the night-blooming hyacinth, but wakes up again and again. Sometimes serious, sometimes almost sweet, sometimes almost bloody...
Paul says: "You will find that this one is particularly interesting in cold weather."
In humid weather too, I want to add, somehow something complements there.
Forget the floral scents you know, because this one, like its two companions, has a rather dry character, smoky, woody.
No flower outdoors.
- This is how she should smell, wishes the beloved.
- This is how he should smell, wishes the beloved.
The scent remains present for ages, the projection emphasizes the wood, while the bloom and the underlying dry-citrusy notes are more pronounced up close.
Not grassy, not green, not cool.
Difficult to grasp. Melancholic and with a subtle (is that possible?) lustfulness.
My truer self?

Statements

9 short views on the fragrance

Yatagan

9 years ago

7Scent 7Longevity 7Sillage

9

2

Wood and bloom with a strangely disharmonious dirty note that could come off as animalistic, if there weren't also some synthetic elements hiding behind it.

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