This was a blind buy for me based on the notes - I adore jasmine, and incense, and animalic things. It was like it was made for me. My initial impression, however, was disappointing, as it seems to be for many other reviewers. I believe I may have solved the mystery of why this fragrance is so often a let-down, however.
A lot of reviewers say that this is more sweet and innocent than they were expecting, they don’t get any incense, they smell lemon instead of jasmine, it’s soapy, etc - one even described “awful lemon and civet”. I know exactly what y’all are talking about. The day my bottle arrived in the mail, this is exactly what I smelled. Lemon. Creamy lemon desserts specifically, lemon icing, lemon butter, lemon meringue. Also hospital disinfectant in the top notes. And something akin to a recently snuffed candle and hot candle wax. I got a very strong colour association of pale creamy yellow, and felt the smell didn’t match the purple-grey juice at all. Last but not least, the dry down smelled like hot breath on my skin, it was gross and at that point I had to wash it off. In this initial application the fragrance was (unfortunately) quite strong with impressive projection and longevity.
Now, Serge Lutens fragrances come with both a splash cap and a regular atomiser. I installed the atomiser right away, and that’s how I applied it the first time. After my underwhelming experience I decided - FOUR DAYS LATER, importantly - to try dabbing the juice on instead of using the atomiser, as I’ve heard the method of application can make a difference to the smell. To my surprise, when I dabbed this on my wrist, it was very different. Much less projection - it hung close to my skin. But more importantly, it smelled like a florist’s shop. No lemon, no hospital, no candle wax - just this beautiful naturalistic bouquet, fresh, bitter, powdery. Not 100% jasmine, definitely other flowers in there. It dried down to a very inoffensive, syrupy sweet musk (as most fragrances do on my skin), no gross hot breath smell this time.
I wasn’t sure if this difference was due to the method of application, or due to some oxidisation of the fragrance from the bottle being opened. So, FIVE DAYS after opening the bottle, I decided to reinstall the atomiser and try again.
It’s even better. It’s GORGEOUS. No longer so much “florists shop” but more jasmine soliflore + church incense. Not incense as in incense smoke, but the frankincense resin. Seriously, this is not smoky in the traditional sense. Nor is it noticeably animalic, in my opinion (the only time I got anything animalic is during the drydown of that unfortunate first test, where I guess the civet was not properly blended). But it is dark, mysterious, melancholy. Everything I expected based on the notes. It finally matches the colour of the juice. It really needs the warmth of skin to develop its darker aspects, though - an atomiser sniff or test on paper is not representative.
I've been wearing this quite a bit and really enjoy it. I find it lasts at least 8 hours on skin before becoming undetectable, and maintains a recognisable white floral character throughout that time. The sillage remains intimate, but I'm only doing one spray. I have no reason to overspray, since I'm an introvert who prefers my perfumes to not announce my presence, and this one is just right for me. Signature scent? I think so!
So, there you have it. Give La Religieuse a chance. Let it sit for a week or so after opening the bottle. (though if you have a decant or sample, I don’t know if the same applies!)
Side note: the marketing around this (there’s an artsy promo video you can find on YouTube) has to do with loss of innocence. I find it amusing that the fragrance itself has to “lose its innocence” before it smells nice, transforming from a girly lemon dessert/lemon soap scent to a gothic white floral. I doubt this alchemy was on purpose but it seems quite poetic.
Update: a friend I sprayed this for, without telling them the notes, said it smelled like licorice and leather. I kind of get the licorice association.
Jasmine
Frankincense
Bergamot
Noturfave
SilverLily
Jodo
Labdanem
Zerkalo
Renardz
Evannell
NicheOnly
Katzevogel
Aromazeal
