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Ysbrand
Top Review
10
Aether
One thing i noticed in the last times about Serge Lutens is how they are becoming more and more obscure at the time to list the ingredients of their fragances. And i would say it is a trend other niche fragances are following too (i am thinking of LÁrtisan, for example)
Not much could be found when researching L´Orpheline. Mostly, a mere reference to incense and a lot of lutensian literature (written in that ambiguous Confucius/Chesire Cat way that only rises more questions) about orphans and Orpheus. Which actually prepares one for the mood of the fragance.
So i expected a classical incense. Avignon type. Well, nope. I mean, it is a very incense centered fragance, but dont expect warm spirals of smoke. L´orpheline is ghostly, a steel-cold incense, incredibly clean and fresh, with an inorganic vibrant feeling coming from aldehydes and woody aromachemical, also cool spices, i smell hints of clove and pepper. Indeed, i can sniff in L´orpheline elements from other SL fragances, that interact very well. The buzzing-high pitched etheric note in Miel De Bois, like fictional woods. The cool spiciness of Vitriol d´Oeillet and the sparkling aldehydes of Laine de Verre and De Profundis, and also the clean musk of Laine. Miel without the honey, Oeillet without the flowers.
If you enjoyed those perfumes, you might like L´orpheline. As the fragrance develops in my skin, i feel it less metallic, gets smokier and the texture of dark wood and humid soil is more obvious. It is refined in a low key way, almost austere and ethereal. I personally find it easier in a man, but of course, as all Serge Lutens are conceived for, it is wearable for women.
OceanCliffs
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