Bois Impérial Essential Parfums 2020

Pure natural fragrances often have the disadvantage of already seeming too dense - synthetics can help lighten them up, make them lighter. And then there's a wide world in between, as Akigalawood shows, for example. The fragrance is extracted from patchouli plant residue*, removing its more grimy facets and ultimately creating a very different impression. Bois Impérial is strongly influenced by it and various synthetic components, so that - as many here have already noticed - the comparison to Escentric Molecules suggests itself. The important difference is revealed in the fact that the latter often seem too soulless to me, while here the balancing act between synthetics and nature succeeds.

What I liked during the first tests is the fact that the fragrance already seems rather simple, but I could still filter out different nuances each time, which I had not noticed before or hardly. To begin with, there is not only the combination of the citrusy freshness, which is neither too sharp nor too sweet, with the dry woodiness (1), which runs through from beginning to end, but also a very subtle floral component (2). This doesn't make Bois Impérial seem floral, but adds even more brightness and some richness that would otherwise be lacking. Green freshness fits in just as well, whereby the vetiver note does not come across at all classic-old-fashioned, as is sometimes the case.

(1) Ambrofix = Ambroxan: If you know Molecule 02, you know what I mean.
(2) Petalia: "rose-like with nuances of lily of the valley." I would have thought of Hedion next to it.

The fragrance seems therefore consistently bright and transparent, because no heavy components complement the base accord, but with Georgywood (equivalent to Iso E Super, but is even woodier*) and Akigalawood always maintain an airy texture. The latter note is hard to describe, as it still has slightly earthy and green facets of patchouli, but just seems much lighter and cleaner. With Supræ of Aether (even drier) or Nisean of Parfums de Marly (darker, balsamic), for example, you can also perceive it well.

By the way, my girlfriend does not like the fragrance, because she immediately had the association with something pickled. Maybe that comes from the slight acidity and some spice. Now I feel the fragrance as a little softer than at the beginning, where I saw the dry-woody side as the most dominant. Possibly it needs some time to 'settle in'. For everyday wear, Bois Impérial is optimal, as the durability is really extremely good - especially on clothes. The sillage can also be easily underestimated and I have therefore rated it with 7, because you are not slain by the transparent effect of the fragrance, but at the same time he radiates relatively far.

Also, an important question with perfumes is how they make you feel when you wear them: Bois Impérial has on the one hand this lighthearted, universally wearable, on the other hand, the fragrance definitely has a mood-lifting effect.

[*Many thanks to Ronin for the tips.]