Patchouli Noisette Les Indémodables 2023

As one of the undoubtedly most important natural raw materials for perfumes, patchouli enjoys a divided reputation these days - although the spectrum of how it can actually smell is extremely wide. In its cheapest and, for many, most unpleasant form, it smells musty and earthy, which is often compared to the smell of a damp cellar, but at the other end of the spectrum, patchouli is woodier, drier and sometimes a little cocoa-like
Les Indémodables' vision is to create perfumes that not only have a high proportion of high-quality, natural fragrances, but also to source them from small-scale, sustainable production as far away from the usual mass production as possible. The brand's website specifically states the following about Pachouli Noisette:

"This creation revisits a mythical fragrance ingredient: patchouli. It has been combined with an exclusive ingredient used for the very first time in perfumery: the ultrasound extract of Hazelnut from Piémont Italy designed internally using a 100% green extraction technology, and the world most qualitative origin of hazelnut! An accord which provides a delicate balance between the dark and rough side of patchouli with the incomparable soft praline facets of the hazelnut from Piémont.

Patchouli oil 'Grand Cru' Aceh Indonesia & Sri Lanka 35%
Hazelnut 'Grand Cru' Piémont Italy ultrasound 20% ETOH 8%

maturation: 2 weeks
maceration: 2 weeks"

In the interview by Dariush Alavi - known on YouTube as Persolaise Perfumes - with the owner Valérie Pulvérail, her husband Rémi - who talks about various raw materials in a very informative 'Masterclass' series at Persolaise - and perfumer Antoine Lie, you can find out more details about the creation of Patchouli Noisette. Although the latter had great creative freedom, he wanted to create a fragrance that went beyond the usual chypre or gourmand structure. According to his own statement, he also wanted to satisfy both those who love patchouli and those who otherwise reject it.

My very first impression was that the fragrance was particularly woody and had a certain dryness. Strangely enough, I also initially thought that Patchouli Noisette would quickly become skin-like, which I can now absolutely refute. For me, a whole new world full of different facets has opened up and with a few sprays you will definitely be well noticed for a long time. In addition to the pleasantly warm woody notes, there are also fruity nuances that add further richness. A subtle sweetness is also noticeable, while the hazelnut note shimmers through in an authentic form never before experienced in perfumes - only very gently, but not as boldly nutty and gourmand as is so often the case. I would attribute a slightly creamy quality to Patchouli Noisette later on, but, as I said, it never drifts into edibility.

Antoine Lie explains in the aforementioned interview (and on U Smells Good) that he did indeed use fruit molecules, some rose and lactones to create these effects. I also notice myself that the subtly dirty facets of patchouli still remain perceptible if you focus on them. Consequently, I would assume that people who do not otherwise have a soft spot for the fragrance would not necessarily wear this perfume themselves, but might well like it on others.

Patchouli Noisette has an effect on me that you can only experience for yourself, because words alone cannot do it justice. I can't even categorize it as modern or old-fashioned, because for me the fragrance is timeless, self-confident and powerful, but like a comforting embrace and definitely of French elegance. The most beautiful form of patchouli, which is independent of age and gender, but is simply a conscious choice.