Crêpe de Chine F. Millot 1925 Parfum

from a vintage miniature i purchased recently, this is gorgeously rich, complex and densely opulent. aldehydes and just a touch of neroli open to reveal a powdery prismatic bouquet of primarily, to my nose, spicy carnation, lilac, iris and jasmine. softer floral shades come and go of ylang, a brief flash of rose and heady orange blossom, all tightly spun together with oakmoss thread, wrapped in a soft, powdery, vintage and plush leather. the florals gradually give way to a more soapy vibe with, what feels like, a dash of vetiver. a subtle green, herbal galbanum and spicy, resinous and slightly vanillic benzoin snake their way through the base of the composition like smoke, resting on a base of sandalwood. an exquisite, smooth and rounded gorgeousness.

How did mere mortal men make such heavenly creations? As soon as I unsealed the bottle of parfum and applied a drop, I was entranced. This is one of the most beautiful floral chypres I have ever smelled. This may seem strange, but for some reason the first thing I thought of on smelling this was original Miss Dior. But while they share a lot of the same notes, and both are floral chyres, Miss Dior is more lighthearted and youthful. Crepe de Chine is Miss Dior's darker, deeper, and more worldly older sister. She also predates Miss Dior by over 25 years. I'm sure this scent had some influence over the composition of Miss Dior, just as I'm sure Coty's Chypre did. Maybe it's just because it is a chypre, and all chypres resemble each other to a degree. Or maybe Dior wanted to challenge one of the reigning fragrances of the day. Whatever the case, I think lovers of Miss Dior should try this. They might love this scent just as much as I do.

I find this to be a sublime, exquisitely crafted creation. It was wildly popular in its day, and it is no wonder. It is soft, warm, earthy, sensuous, mysterious, deep, mossy, herbal, green, with a lovely floral heart and a light terpenic spiciness. It is all so beautifully blended, creating a classy, subtle, and elegant vibe.

Prior to buying this scent, I did a little research. While researching I came across a lot of advertising material for this perfume. The advertisements certainly give me an image of the type of woman Millot seemed to be targeting. Smart, sharp, sexy, polished, and witty. Some of the ads were so entertaining I thought I'd share them here. One of the ads showed a half-empty bottle of perfume with the tagline, “By this time you should have quite a past.” Another read, “A dab or two can't last forever. Not when it's constantly circulating your message.” There were others cited, and all just as amusing. Seeing them, I wish I had a time machine so I could travel back to see the beautifully coiffed, exquisitely tailored, very stylish, svelte ladies who wore this scent. If the advertising is any indication, they must have been a sight to behold.

Overall, I am so happy with this lovely scent that I now own not only 2 bottles of the parfum, but also a sealed (though now opened and used) big bottle of the Eau de Crepe de Chine. It's just as wonderful, but lighter and a little different in composition, and also, a little more similar to Miss Dior. It's as bright and crisp as the spring green color of its perfume. It even feels like spring! And I love it just as much.

A scent like a dream from long-forgotten times. Like heavy, green silk. Like a fairy tale forest with clearings where wild carnations grow. Like delicate roses among rough grasses. The great oaks everywhere draped with silvery-gray, filigree mosses that radiate an unfathomable aroma. The rough undertone of earthy patchouli, the balsamic-soft resinous scents behind it? Beneath? Above? .....Everywhere, in a charming and magical way, they seem to subtly underpin everything. And even the harsher resins are enveloped by them like with gentle veils. Time and again, the pungent carnations, the slightly green jasmine, and the roses flash through. The scent is devoid of any "artificial" sweetness. The little that feels natural is cleverly integrated throughout the fragrance. It comes from blossoms and a touch of benzoin. A wonderful "rough fellow" with a soft, good-natured core. I can also very well imagine "Crêpe de Chine" on men, as this scent has more "substance" than most fragrances today designated for "men." And a wonderfully rustic charm!