12/23/2019
Yatagan
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1925
Uncommented fragrances No. 142
The year 1925 began unspectacularly. After all, the Norwegian capital Christiania was given back its old name Oslo on 1 January, which it still bears today. In 1925, one year after Kafka's death, his groundbreaking novel "The Trial", Busoni's still popular opera "Doctor Faust" was published in Dresden, which was still undestroyed at the time. Fritz Lang began filming "Metropolis", the film "Gold Rush", unnoticed by most of the world, one of the masterpieces of Charlie Chaplin, was shown for the first time in New York, on the other side of the Iron Curtain Sergei Eisenstein's film "Battleship Potemkin", one of the great milestones of Russian cinema, premiered, several disasters and human tragedies occurred, politically sustainable decisions were made or prevented. The fashion world celebrated a special fabric in 1925, the crêpe de chine, also known as Chinese crepe, in the creations of Augusta Bernhard (fashion designer, 1886 - 1946).
For this very reason, one of the most important fragrances by Jean Desprez, published by F. Millot, was called "Crêpe de Chine". The name and the idea behind it go well with this silky-smooth yet synthetic chypre scent with its strong aldehyde opening. Similarly old as Chanel No. 5 (1921), crêpe de Chine belongs to the group of cool, elegant, dandy or diva-like fragrances, which today seem so unfashionable to many and yet never went out of fashion among connoisseurs. Neil Chapman's excellent perfume guide ("Perfume - in search of your signature scent", 2019) devotes a particularly detailed section to the fragrance, and it was also listed as a trailblazer in Haarmann & Reimer's fragrance atlas, directly following Chypres Coty as the second ancestor of the flowery, fresh Chypres. For those who don't already know what the fragrance smells like, here's a detailed description: bergamot (belongs to the chypre), enriched with other hesperidic notes (much more so than Chanel No. 5, for example), a heart of rose and subtle jasmine (belongs to the chypre), further flowers cannot be isolated because the aldehydes are in the foreground, oakmoss (belongs to the chypre) and musk (often belongs to the chypre) in the base. So far so classic and unspectacular, so unspectacular as the year 1925 began (see above), but Crêpe de Chine is one of those fragrances that are simply so well made that they surpass other fragrances that should smell the same on paper, even in later versions. I have a bottle that is very similar to the one on the top of the photo, and judging by the design, it has been on the cap for a few years.
The fragrance is a real option for Christmas Eve for me.
Addendum: As unspectacular as the year seemed, dark shadows came up quickly, because a (megalomaniacal) painter published a pamphlet in that very year that foreshadowed all the horrors of the following years.
I wish all readers* a peaceful Christmas!
Yatagan
The year 1925 began unspectacularly. After all, the Norwegian capital Christiania was given back its old name Oslo on 1 January, which it still bears today. In 1925, one year after Kafka's death, his groundbreaking novel "The Trial", Busoni's still popular opera "Doctor Faust" was published in Dresden, which was still undestroyed at the time. Fritz Lang began filming "Metropolis", the film "Gold Rush", unnoticed by most of the world, one of the masterpieces of Charlie Chaplin, was shown for the first time in New York, on the other side of the Iron Curtain Sergei Eisenstein's film "Battleship Potemkin", one of the great milestones of Russian cinema, premiered, several disasters and human tragedies occurred, politically sustainable decisions were made or prevented. The fashion world celebrated a special fabric in 1925, the crêpe de chine, also known as Chinese crepe, in the creations of Augusta Bernhard (fashion designer, 1886 - 1946).
For this very reason, one of the most important fragrances by Jean Desprez, published by F. Millot, was called "Crêpe de Chine". The name and the idea behind it go well with this silky-smooth yet synthetic chypre scent with its strong aldehyde opening. Similarly old as Chanel No. 5 (1921), crêpe de Chine belongs to the group of cool, elegant, dandy or diva-like fragrances, which today seem so unfashionable to many and yet never went out of fashion among connoisseurs. Neil Chapman's excellent perfume guide ("Perfume - in search of your signature scent", 2019) devotes a particularly detailed section to the fragrance, and it was also listed as a trailblazer in Haarmann & Reimer's fragrance atlas, directly following Chypres Coty as the second ancestor of the flowery, fresh Chypres. For those who don't already know what the fragrance smells like, here's a detailed description: bergamot (belongs to the chypre), enriched with other hesperidic notes (much more so than Chanel No. 5, for example), a heart of rose and subtle jasmine (belongs to the chypre), further flowers cannot be isolated because the aldehydes are in the foreground, oakmoss (belongs to the chypre) and musk (often belongs to the chypre) in the base. So far so classic and unspectacular, so unspectacular as the year 1925 began (see above), but Crêpe de Chine is one of those fragrances that are simply so well made that they surpass other fragrances that should smell the same on paper, even in later versions. I have a bottle that is very similar to the one on the top of the photo, and judging by the design, it has been on the cap for a few years.
The fragrance is a real option for Christmas Eve for me.
Addendum: As unspectacular as the year seemed, dark shadows came up quickly, because a (megalomaniacal) painter published a pamphlet in that very year that foreshadowed all the horrors of the following years.
I wish all readers* a peaceful Christmas!
Yatagan
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