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10/15/2020
Chizza
273 Reviews
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Chizza
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The imprecision of a first impression
I stumbled across the label Gravel thanks to FvSpee who commented on the old Cologne here and also noticed the new creations of the current owners. Some of them read well, especially 46th Street did it to me and so I took part in a sharing. The first impression inspired me but I rated the fragrance by the multiple impressions because the test with a sprayer on the back of the hand would have led to an incomplete evaluation, even an absolutely falsified one. For where I had previously cheered with exultation, the sobering reality occurred. Badumm-Tssss.
In fact, the forest berries dominate at the beginning. These are sweet and somehow tart, but there is an animalistic note in them, which I attribute to the musk, which here looks powdery-sweet but also slightly musty or really still animalistic. Now one does not know such strict notes of leather in the well-known leather form, because the majority of the leather is rather tame. From suede, however, one knows such scents, for example from Cuoio by Pal Zileri, but in the overall context it appears round and fine. Here it honestly pulls the berries in the wrong direction, sometimes it even smells unpleasantly like animal.
This new impression on the wrist leads me away from the feeling of having an eau de memo-esque version of the Oro1920 in front of me. The Oro1920 is much more resinous, less berry-heavy, rounder and more balanced concerning the leather. The Eau de Memo combines leather and colognesque features very well, although it is not my taste. Here one finds it difficult to trade the more ingredients accordingly. Although this phase lasts only half an hour, then this impression flattens out, the fragrance unfortunately only becomes a companion and that rather quietly.
So it will later become more harmonious with the fine jasmine. Cypriol as a smoky element is present somewhere, but it only underlines the fragrance. This combination is olfactorically pleasant, because demanding but conclusive. I cannot perceive a strong smoke, the Cypriol and the incense are simply quite intense in the whole composition without being obtrusive. For me, a kind of buckskin is projected here, a wilder leather and now mixed up with more pleasing notes.
Now one or the other will stop and shout Wait a minute! There is no leather at all! Yes, there is. The smell is built up by the birch, I think it is not birch resin but really the sap of the birch in combination with the forest berries. That is a broad term and for my feeling there are rather unknown representatives like sloes or rose hip in it, which evoke this bitter-sweet, somewhat strange smell.
As is so often the case, it is essential to test extensively. If 46th Street was on my shopping list, it no longer appears there. Because of the strictness, I really think it goes in a direction like a Cuoio wrapped in cotton wool, whereby the musk remains clearly perceptible and the mixture is not fermented. Everything that comes after the top note is pleasing, but doesn't tear out the strange first impression anymore.
In fact, the forest berries dominate at the beginning. These are sweet and somehow tart, but there is an animalistic note in them, which I attribute to the musk, which here looks powdery-sweet but also slightly musty or really still animalistic. Now one does not know such strict notes of leather in the well-known leather form, because the majority of the leather is rather tame. From suede, however, one knows such scents, for example from Cuoio by Pal Zileri, but in the overall context it appears round and fine. Here it honestly pulls the berries in the wrong direction, sometimes it even smells unpleasantly like animal.
This new impression on the wrist leads me away from the feeling of having an eau de memo-esque version of the Oro1920 in front of me. The Oro1920 is much more resinous, less berry-heavy, rounder and more balanced concerning the leather. The Eau de Memo combines leather and colognesque features very well, although it is not my taste. Here one finds it difficult to trade the more ingredients accordingly. Although this phase lasts only half an hour, then this impression flattens out, the fragrance unfortunately only becomes a companion and that rather quietly.
So it will later become more harmonious with the fine jasmine. Cypriol as a smoky element is present somewhere, but it only underlines the fragrance. This combination is olfactorically pleasant, because demanding but conclusive. I cannot perceive a strong smoke, the Cypriol and the incense are simply quite intense in the whole composition without being obtrusive. For me, a kind of buckskin is projected here, a wilder leather and now mixed up with more pleasing notes.
Now one or the other will stop and shout Wait a minute! There is no leather at all! Yes, there is. The smell is built up by the birch, I think it is not birch resin but really the sap of the birch in combination with the forest berries. That is a broad term and for my feeling there are rather unknown representatives like sloes or rose hip in it, which evoke this bitter-sweet, somewhat strange smell.
As is so often the case, it is essential to test extensively. If 46th Street was on my shopping list, it no longer appears there. Because of the strictness, I really think it goes in a direction like a Cuoio wrapped in cotton wool, whereby the musk remains clearly perceptible and the mixture is not fermented. Everything that comes after the top note is pleasing, but doesn't tear out the strange first impression anymore.
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