I was completely beside myself when I heard about the new Guerlain Extraits. And then Iris, Vanilla, and Tonka! When I saw the price, I nearly fell off my chair...
First, a few words about the name of the fragrance. I have been wondering from the start what the numbers in the names of the new Extraits stand for. Fortunately, there’s Google and the Guerlain website: in the case of "Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75 | Guerlain," the 75 refers to the percentage of natural coumarin contained. And that leads me to the rest of the name: I initially thought (I can read, or so I thought) that the fragrance was called "Tonka Sepia" :D until I realized that the sample says "Tonka Sarrapia." And this riddle was quickly solved: Sarrapia is the tonka bean tree, which contains the 75% natural coumarin. Et voilà!
Now, onto the actual scent. After the first test, Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75 presented itself as a full-blooded gourmand. Very warm, spicy, and sweet, I also got a minimal coconut association. After several wearings (and a half-empty sample), the fragrance showed various facets that absolutely thrilled me. I am continually amazed, but the scent shifts from a powdery marzipan cloud to a leathery, oily tonka bean. I can’t get enough of this oily note! I also perceive a hint of cocoa, as well as a minimal dose of vanilla. Towards the drydown, a beautiful woodiness comes in, which complements the sweetness very nicely.
What the fragrance is at all times: warm-spicy. And that distinguishes it from its siblings Tonka Impériale and "Shalimar Millésime Tonka | Guerlain." These two tonka beauties are darker and less warm compared to "Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75 | Guerlain." I find there are worlds between Tonka Impériale and the Extrait. Tonka Impériale contains a lot of rosemary, has much less spice, and is, for me, more marzipan-like. Shalimar Millésime Tonka comes a bit closer to the Extrait; this leathery note is present in both. However, the Shalimar Millésime Tonka is clearly a Shalimar and cooler, lacking the warm spice. But: all three are an absolute dream!
Ah yes, I love the Extraits I’ve tested so far. Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21 evokes wonderful memories, Iris Pallida Extrait 6 is always a go-to, and Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75 is just so wonderfully multifaceted and much more than just sweet. The price is, of course, more of a nightmare, but the poor fragrances can’t help that. And fortunately, due to the enormous longevity, even small samples last a very long time. Well, Guerlain has (unfortunately?) hit a nerve with me!
Deswegen traue ich mich auch nicht, ihn zu testen :-).
Ich liebe den Shalimar Tonka inzwischen sooo sehr und ich denke, dass ich dieses Schätzchen hier dann auch seeehr mögen würde. Ach ja...
Oje oje ojeeeee.... Was hat Deine Rezi mit mir gemacht? Ich kann nur sagen: zum Glück, dass es hier bei Parfumo die Sharings gibt. Aber auch die läppern sich zusammen. Aber was soll man tun? So wie Du die Extraits beschreibst, müssen sie göttlich sein. Fein beschrieben und erklärt, alle drei. Lieben Dank
Danke für dein Lob :) Ja, die Extraits sind wirklich wundervoll und leider furchtbar teuer. Und sie halten ewig, was mir bei Vanille und Tonka schon zu viel wurde auf Dauer. Aber eine kleine Menge als Pröbchen habe ich von beiden noch und schnuppere regelmäßig daran :)
Ich liebe den Shalimar Tonka inzwischen sooo sehr und ich denke, dass ich dieses Schätzchen hier dann auch seeehr mögen würde. Ach ja...