L'Art & La Matière

Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21 2023

Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21 by Guerlain
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8.5 / 10 112 Ratings
A new perfume by Guerlain for women and men, released in 2023. The scent is sweet-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It is being marketed by LVMH.
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Main accords

Sweet
Spicy
Powdery
Gourmand
Smoky

Fragrance Notes

VanillaVanilla AmberAmber MyrrhMyrrh SpicesSpices White muskWhite musk

Perfumers

Ratings
Scent
8.5112 Ratings
Longevity
8.6103 Ratings
Sillage
7.598 Ratings
Bottle
9.296 Ratings
Value for money
4.870 Ratings
Submitted by Spl3xx, last update on 21.04.2024.
Interesting Facts
According to Thierry Wasser, the "21" is a reference to the three-week soaking of the harvested vanilla beans in alcohol to extract the vanilla fragrance.
The fragrance is part of the "L'Art & La Matière" collection.

Reviews

10 in-depth fragrance descriptions
9
Sillage
9
Longevity
8
Scent
Pollita

224 Reviews
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Pollita
Pollita
Top Review 56  
About mass and class, Guerlain and Ikea. And images in your head that won't go away
Is it just me or have you also noticed that Guerlain is releasing an incredible number of new fragrances at the moment? Personally, I still like to think back to the days when it was exciting when a new fragrance was launched. For weeks, it was the number one topic of conversation in the small perfumery in the neighboring town where my mother always loved to shop.

And not only does it feel like there's something new every day, especially at Guerlain, but it's also getting more and more exclusive and expensive. an extrait from the new series, which also includes Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21, costs 550 euros. Unfortunately, vanilla is such an irritant for me, just like musk. And that's why I couldn't avoid testing this new release.

Yes, I admit it. It does smell great. My high rating speaks for itself. It has similarities with my recently found fragrance love Honoré Delights by Ex Nihilo. The combination of vanilla and musk is actually similarly finely realized here. Yes, I like that. At the same time, although much sweeter and not as extravagant, it has echoes of Shalimar. This subtly smoky, serious note is also present here. Presumably the spicy notes, but they only say hello here every now and then. Overall, the fragrance is rather sweet and perhaps has a hint of the base note of a Shalimar, but nothing more.

The new extraits are also intended to be combined. Maybe that's the reason why there is no fresh or floral counterpart here. And that's exactly what I miss here. Because a little bergamot, a little lemon, a floral note here and there, a leathery touch, would actually have done this noble and gentle vanilla beauty some good. Because as it is, I unfortunately also associate it with the well-known Ikea scented candle. In high quality, of course. Anything else would have surprised me with Guerlain, but after a while this image is also in my head and I can't get it out. Especially in the projection, Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21 smells like Ikea at first sniff. I wouldn't be surprised if people who notice you with this scent wonder whether you've just been in the Ikea scented candle department?

And that scented candle association just bothers me in the end. I would have taken the rest. Gritting my teeth at the price, of course. But I've already had enough of just such candle fragrances, such as those from Profumum Roma, which aren't exactly cheap either, and I've sorted them all out again.

Perhaps it's the sheer mass that's the reason why such a tiny but enormously important touch of class is simply missing here?

A big thank you to WitweBolte for sharing and the testing opportunity
45 Comments
5
Pricing
7
Bottle
9
Sillage
9
Longevity
7.5
Scent
Konakona

1 Review
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Konakona
Konakona
Top Review 20  
Vanilla Planifolia vs Vanilla Planifolia
When I read the name of this extrait, I immediately thought of the Shalimar flanker of almost the same name: Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia. This is one of my favorite perfumes ever and the excellent reviews suggest that I am not alone. Unfortunately, this flanker was limited. So I hoped that Guerlain would realize its mistake of yore and now plan to offer a perfume with its pure vanilla in the regular range. This was not the case.

Change of scene.

Every year, from November at the latest, Christmas markets appear in the remaining department stores in Germany. All kinds of festive furnishings and Christmas decorations are on sale there - and candles. Candles with a spicy scent, a bit like gingerbread. If you imagine the scene, you can almost smell it in your nose. Vanilla Planifolia Extrait 21 smells exactly like this, only more sophisticated. The spices are clearly in the foreground for me. Yes, they are embedded in musk and the typical Guerlain vanilla, but they clearly stand out. You can like that, but I find it courageous to try to create a fragrance for the standard range. For me, this perfume is a strictly seasonal fragrance due to its clear association with the Christmas season.

What is the most beautiful thing about perfume? In my opinion, it's that you don't need it.
You don't starve or die of thirst without perfume and, unlike with clothes, the police don't turn up if you're not wearing anything. You don't have perfume because you need it, but because you want it. And so here, too, the question arises: do I want this perfume?
I wouldn't mind. But is it enough to want it? The vanilla-based competition from our own house is strong:
If I want to wear something spicy, then I prefer Shalimar Eau de Toilette. If I want pure vanilla, then I have Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia. And if I want something similarly spicy, but wearable all year round (at least in the evening), then there's Cuir Beluga.
The competition wins.

All this is before you factor in the price of a hefty 550 euros. By way of comparison, for the same amount you can get not just one of the options mentioned in the last paragraph, but all three together. This also answers the question for me: I don't want it.
6 Comments
8
Pricing
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
10
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Chanelle

114 Reviews
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Chanelle
Chanelle
Top Review 16  
Playing it safe
Of course, Guerlain is a master of vanilla. However, I haven't really been a fan of vanilla for years, it has simply worn off. BUT: This extrait has echoes of my all-time, but also somewhat unusual, favorite Aqua Allegoria, namely Ylang Vanilla, only less sweet and even better, if I may say so.
It starts with a very unsweet vanilla, like freshly scraped from a vanilla pod, simply beautiful. Then, after it becomes a little creamier, a tropical herbal note kicks in. I have no idea why it smells so pretty like freshly whipped, lightly sweetened milk vanilla cream, peppered with bits of greenish herbs and just a hint of a woody note. After about an hour, it becomes a little sweeter and even a little smoky, but never too much. Like the tonka extract, this one stays around you, but for about a whole day! Very pleasant.
I still prefer Allegoria above though...if only for money reasons.
7 Comments
7
Pricing
10
Bottle
6
Sillage
9
Longevity
10
Scent
Charles24

2 Reviews
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Charles24
Charles24
Very helpful Review 18  
Fantastic vanilla!
I'm a huge Guerlain fan and therefore always very interested in the new products! As I particularly like Guerlain's vanilla fragrances, which are by far the best for me, I had to get the Vanille Extraits straight away.
And what can I say: I am more than thrilled! I've had it for two weeks now and love using it. On its own or in combination with Angélique Noire and Cuir Béluga, it is a true vanilla dream. For me, the fragrance is pretty pure vanilla, the other notes such as musk and amber are very subtle. The extrait is extremely long-lasting. I wear it all day long. If you use the extrait in combination with the other Guerlain fragrances, you can create the scent you want. This brings out the vanilla even more. I don't think you can compare the Vanille Extrait with anything else. For me, it is also worth the price, even if it is of course very high. But I can say that I am incredibly enthusiastic. I was actually only planning to get the vanilla extrait, but after I was able to test all the others, I think they will all be allowed to move in with me. The extraits simply offer so many incredible possibilities. And I use a different combination every day! Just as an aside, the bottle really is an absolute dream!
There are many vanilla fragrances on the market, but Guerlain is simply the Ferrari of vanilla fragrances and for me nothing else comes on the shelf. I've only been using the extraits with other combinations for weeks now and I'm in absolute fragrance heaven every day! Guerlain done really well!
7 Comments
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Serenissima

608 Reviews
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Serenissima
Serenissima
Top Review 15  
Vanilla against the winter blues
With broad, relaxed strides, she once again approaches the fragrance stage prepared for her:
Aphrodite, the goddess of love, the vanilla goddess! She wraps herself, how could it be otherwise, in a light, warming cloak cleverly woven from vanilla and musk.
Thus clothed, the fragrance approaches swiftly and remains; remains for a Guerlain-usual time.
This longevity makes it possible to literally follow the emergence of a warm and spicy fragrance pattern up close.
The new fragrance creation by the long-standing duo Delphine Jelk and Thierry Wasser "Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21" bears the botanical name of the spice vanilla quite rightly.

This pod, also known as Bourbon vanilla, has for many years taken its place in the fragrance creations of the House of Guerlain:
Just think of the irresistible charm of "La Divina": "Shalimar"!

And now an "extrait" which, according to its creators, is also very suitable for layering.
The idea alone is delightful: a layer of the rich new fragrance "Rose Centifolia 1" on this new, sensually touching vanilla creation - how delicious!
You don't have to be a gourmand fragrance fan to enjoy this!
Because the other, cleverly added resinous and smoky fragrance notes such as opoponax and amber also correspond perfectly with the great patchouli and incense nuances contained in the rose fragrance But they also flatter the vanilla, which gives the fragrance its name, with its skillfully spiced musk decor.

The idea of mixing underlies this series of new fragrance compositions, but of course each of them can also be worn wonderfully on its own.

With its three new fragrance creations (including "Iris Pallida Extrait 6" with its delicately powdery suede touch), the House of Guerlain is breaking new ground:
There has never been such a clear invitation to play with the existing, to mix these modern works of art with their extraordinary fragrances! New fragrance creatures can certainly emerge here:
Personal "fragrance goddesses" are born anew every day!

Whether you accept this invitation is up to you.
I'm more likely to follow the vanilla magic as it settles on my skin from the bottle.
Because now is vanilla time!
Sensual warmth versus everyday gray: Who will get the preference here?
4 Comments
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