12/05/2023
Hippokamp
9 Reviews
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Hippokamp
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Tonka bean tree becomes a tonka bean dream
I was really excited when I heard about the new Guerlain extraits. And then iris, vanilla and tonka! When I saw the price, I fell off my chair...
But first a few words about the name of the fragrance. Right from the start, I wondered what the numbers in the names of the new extraits stood for. Fortunately, there's Google and the Guerlain website: in the case of Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75, the 75 stands for the percentage of natural coumarin it contains. And that leads me straight to the rest of the name: I initially thought (I can actually read, or so I thought) that the fragrance was called "Tonka Sepia" :D Until I realized that it says "Tonka Sarrapia" on the sachet. And this mystery was quickly solved: Sarrapia is the tonka bean tree, which contains 75% natural coumarin. Tada!
So, now to the actual fragrance. After the first test, Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75 presented itself as a full-blooded gourmand. Very warm, spicy and sweet, I also got the coconut association quite minimally.
After several wears (and a half-empty sample), the fragrance revealed various facets that I was absolutely thrilled with. I am always amazed, but the fragrance changes from a powdery cloud of marzipan to a leathery, oily tonka bean. I can't get enough of this oily note! I also detect a hint of cocoa, as well as a minimal dose of vanilla. Towards the drydown, a beautiful woodiness is added, which complements the sweetness very nicely.
What the fragrance is at all times: warm and spicy. And that sets it apart from its siblings
Tonka Impériale and Shalimar Millésime Tonka. In contrast to Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75, these two tonka beauties are darker and less warm.
I think there is a world of difference between Tonka Impériale and the extrait. Tonka Impériale contains a lot of rosemary, has much less spice and is more marzipan-like for me. Shalimar Millésime Tonka is a little closer to the extrait, with that leathery note in both. However, Shalimar Millésime Tonka is clearly a Shalimar and cooler, it also lacks the warm spice. But: all three are an absolute dream!
Oh yes, I love the extraits I've tested so far. Vanilla brings back wonderful memories, iris always works and tonka is so wonderfully multi-faceted and much more than just sweet. The price is of course a nightmare, but that's not the poor fragrances' fault. And fortunately, given the enormous shelf life, even small samples last a very long time. Well, I guess Guerlain has (unfortunately?) hit a nerve with me!
But first a few words about the name of the fragrance. Right from the start, I wondered what the numbers in the names of the new extraits stood for. Fortunately, there's Google and the Guerlain website: in the case of Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75, the 75 stands for the percentage of natural coumarin it contains. And that leads me straight to the rest of the name: I initially thought (I can actually read, or so I thought) that the fragrance was called "Tonka Sepia" :D Until I realized that it says "Tonka Sarrapia" on the sachet. And this mystery was quickly solved: Sarrapia is the tonka bean tree, which contains 75% natural coumarin. Tada!
So, now to the actual fragrance. After the first test, Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75 presented itself as a full-blooded gourmand. Very warm, spicy and sweet, I also got the coconut association quite minimally.
After several wears (and a half-empty sample), the fragrance revealed various facets that I was absolutely thrilled with. I am always amazed, but the fragrance changes from a powdery cloud of marzipan to a leathery, oily tonka bean. I can't get enough of this oily note! I also detect a hint of cocoa, as well as a minimal dose of vanilla. Towards the drydown, a beautiful woodiness is added, which complements the sweetness very nicely.
What the fragrance is at all times: warm and spicy. And that sets it apart from its siblings
Tonka Impériale and Shalimar Millésime Tonka. In contrast to Tonka Sarrapia Extrait 75, these two tonka beauties are darker and less warm.
I think there is a world of difference between Tonka Impériale and the extrait. Tonka Impériale contains a lot of rosemary, has much less spice and is more marzipan-like for me. Shalimar Millésime Tonka is a little closer to the extrait, with that leathery note in both. However, Shalimar Millésime Tonka is clearly a Shalimar and cooler, it also lacks the warm spice. But: all three are an absolute dream!
Oh yes, I love the extraits I've tested so far. Vanilla brings back wonderful memories, iris always works and tonka is so wonderfully multi-faceted and much more than just sweet. The price is of course a nightmare, but that's not the poor fragrances' fault. And fortunately, given the enormous shelf life, even small samples last a very long time. Well, I guess Guerlain has (unfortunately?) hit a nerve with me!
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