Vétiver Fauve Guerlain 2025

It's too easy to criticize Guerlain for all their new releases and only celebrate the old classics, even though I tend to do the same myself.
Vétiver Fauve is at least once again an attempt to create a fragrance that does not conform to the uniform mass production that Guerlain has also heavily engaged in over the past years (Maltol in the countless little black La Petite Robe Noire (2012) Eau de Toilette, fruity notes in many Aqua Allegorias like Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic, the much-criticized sweet almond note in L'Homme Idéal Eau de Toilette and its brothers, the rather unsuccessful re- and deconstructions like Habit Rouge Spirit).

This fragrance, on the other hand, is a somewhat less adapted composition with vetiver (classic, rather masculine, not so easily integrable), with grassy green notes (although - despite tonka - hardly a trace of fougère is noticeable), but unfortunately with the currently omnipresent fig, the cypriol note found in many niche fragrances (actually an essential oil that can have a woody, spicy, leathery effect) and unfortunately also with pineapple or furaneol (which makes one involuntarily fear that another fragrance might have caught the Aventus bug).

Responsible for the composition is once again Delphine Jelk, who often (skillfully) balances on the fine line between innovative twist and mainstream.
In my view, however, this does not apply so much to Vétiver Fauve, which does not chase any trend, not even the fig and the pineapple, which are interpreted here differently than one has often experienced in recent years, but probably rather - conversely - sets a trend: There is something quite new, idiosyncratic, but probably also relatively mass-compatible, easy to wear and, of course, intentionally released in the L'ART & LA MATIÈRE series - and not as an Aqua Allegoria, where the fragrance could also have found its place, because there are already fragrances with the aforementioned ingredients, which are, however, somewhat more tame, duller, and synthetic.

What makes the fragrance different now?

Vetiver is indeed interpreted here in the style of postmodern vetiverylacetate fragrances (Encre Noire, Sycomore, various Escentric Molecules), thus moving away from the old style of the house like Vetiver Eau de Toilette, which was earthier, juicier, less lacquer-like, less artificial, but shows in the interpretation of Vétiver Fauve also a green, grassy, acidic, and juicy note that brings a suitably new accent. The longer you wear the fragrance, however, the closer it comes to the aforementioned vetiverylacetate representatives, and the more it loses its charm.

It should also be added that the pineapple does not disturb, even appears a bit shy, and the fig remains modest in the background, tonka does not annoy with marzipan sweetness, and cypriol comes across more herbaceous than leathery. Everything just as I wish it.

Summary: My dearly beloved old aunt Guerlain wears a miniskirt - and contrary to my fears, she can wear it well.