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07/06/2018
Parma
27 Reviews
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Parma
Top Review
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The Original
In this commentary, I would just like to briefly describe the difference I feel in comparison to the reissued fragrance of 2014. You can find all detailed information about that fragrance and its history in my commentary.
I will precede this with a quote from the perfumer Maurice Roucel (also responsible for the new edition and creator of Lalique pour homme lion, Musc Ravageur, New Haarlem, Rochas Man, Nautica Voyage and others), who gave the following answer to the question "What has been done to reinvigorate it? It is simply a rebirth." (Source: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/pabgvg/the-smell-of-nostalgia-with-helmut-lang)
So it's actually the same scent. Actually, it's because I can see a slight difference. Also the pyramid (or non-pyramid, which I can't reproduce here at parfumo for the successor, because it already has a course and which is better illustrated e.g. with fragrantica and basenotes in my opinion) has some other ingredients.
Compared to the 2014 fragrance, this slightly erotic note hardly comes out and the fragrance looks a bit like clean baby powder. In my perception the woody and vanilla note is also not so clearly pronounced. I don't notice a flowery impact in either of the two versions.
In addition, I have the impression that the original is somewhat less synthetic. But here I'm talking about a barely perceptible artificiality that shows itself in nuances in the woody drydown of the 2014 fragrance.
In both cases, it is an absolute unisex scent, which is also marketed as the successor. The original was still declared as men's fragrance.
I'm a big fan of this fragrance, as my comment on the reprint page shows, and now also of both versions.
By the hint of the dear perfume ivko I learned that the fragrance was already available before the official release in the year 2000! After that he was already distributed, together with the Eau de Parfum, from 1997/98 in a men's boutique called "Holy's" in Stuttgart. Holy's was run by the Holy brothers, grandsons of Hugo Boss, who had headed Boss for many years, later launching Strellson and Windsor, and after leaving Boss in 1995 founded Holy AG. Outletcity Metzingen is still operated under this AG today. According to ivko, the flacons had silver lids, which you can see in the video of Siebter. In the process they must have switched to black caps. Unfortunately, I could not yet understand when this changed and whether there was even a change in the character of the fragrance, as it is currently not possible to "decode" the batch codes of the Lang fragrances on the net. Also an email inquiry with the Helmut Lang Costumer Service in this respect remained unsuccessful. The employees had no way to ascertain that.
Who has further information to the smell, can announce itself gladly with me. I would be very happy and thankful for every hint :)
I will precede this with a quote from the perfumer Maurice Roucel (also responsible for the new edition and creator of Lalique pour homme lion, Musc Ravageur, New Haarlem, Rochas Man, Nautica Voyage and others), who gave the following answer to the question "What has been done to reinvigorate it? It is simply a rebirth." (Source: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/pabgvg/the-smell-of-nostalgia-with-helmut-lang)
So it's actually the same scent. Actually, it's because I can see a slight difference. Also the pyramid (or non-pyramid, which I can't reproduce here at parfumo for the successor, because it already has a course and which is better illustrated e.g. with fragrantica and basenotes in my opinion) has some other ingredients.
Fragrance:
In my opinion, the clearest difference lies in the greater freshness of the original, in which the lavender note seems more pronounced to me. This freshness is evident throughout the fragrance, while in the successor it is not as pronounced (no lavender in the "pyramid") and is quickly replaced by a subtle but dominant vanilla note. It also helps to give the impression of fresh laundry even more and to make the scent softer and (even) more harmless. Compared to the 2014 fragrance, this slightly erotic note hardly comes out and the fragrance looks a bit like clean baby powder. In my perception the woody and vanilla note is also not so clearly pronounced. I don't notice a flowery impact in either of the two versions.
Durability and Sillage:
The durability is as with the successor for a Cologne very tidy. 2-3 hours it is very well perceptible on my skin, whereby smells on my skin keep mostly below average long. After that it is still pleasantly perceptible for 3-4 hours. The radiation only moves slightly above skin level in the first hour.Result:
The original is the somewhat fresher version and seems even cleaner and gentler than its successor from 2014. According to Maurice Roucel, Helmut Lang's original intention for the design of the fragrance, "He wanted the jus to smell of his boyfriend's secretions on clean sheets" (source: http://www.cafleurebon.com/perfume-news-helmut-lang-relaunches-helmut-lang-eau-de-parfum-cologne-and-cuiron/), is thus better fulfilled, especially for the second part of this expectation. In my opinion, the first part will be better hit by the successor fragrance. In addition, I have the impression that the original is somewhat less synthetic. But here I'm talking about a barely perceptible artificiality that shows itself in nuances in the woody drydown of the 2014 fragrance.
In both cases, it is an absolute unisex scent, which is also marketed as the successor. The original was still declared as men's fragrance.
I'm a big fan of this fragrance, as my comment on the reprint page shows, and now also of both versions.
P.S.:
Among many other great reviews here to this fragrance and also to compare the two on the side of the successor (Terra, DaveGahan101, Grabsplatter, Apicius) you can find a very detailed one in the youtube commentary by Siebter (see below).Additional info:
(added on 07.07.2018)By the hint of the dear perfume ivko I learned that the fragrance was already available before the official release in the year 2000! After that he was already distributed, together with the Eau de Parfum, from 1997/98 in a men's boutique called "Holy's" in Stuttgart. Holy's was run by the Holy brothers, grandsons of Hugo Boss, who had headed Boss for many years, later launching Strellson and Windsor, and after leaving Boss in 1995 founded Holy AG. Outletcity Metzingen is still operated under this AG today. According to ivko, the flacons had silver lids, which you can see in the video of Siebter. In the process they must have switched to black caps. Unfortunately, I could not yet understand when this changed and whether there was even a change in the character of the fragrance, as it is currently not possible to "decode" the batch codes of the Lang fragrances on the net. Also an email inquiry with the Helmut Lang Costumer Service in this respect remained unsuccessful. The employees had no way to ascertain that.
Who has further information to the smell, can announce itself gladly with me. I would be very happy and thankful for every hint :)
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