Top Notes 
Bergamot
Aldehydes
Artemisia
Basil
Juniper
Green notes
Heart Notes 
Cedarwood
Sandalwood
Carnation
Geranium
Patchouli
Pine needle
Base Notes 
Moss
Castoreum
Frankincense
Leather
Musk
Tonka bean
Mairuwa
67 Reviews
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Mairuwa
Helpful Review
8
Mickey Mouse and the Pope
Recently, when I read a report about the reopening of Notre Dame after its restoration, mentioning that the liturgical vestments for the occasion were designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, I was reminded of a name that had long been tucked away in the drawers of my memory. Castelbajac, for me, represented the eighties, perhaps even the early nineties. Teddy bears and Mickey Mouse, pop art, Kermit the Frog. Some things were certainly amusing, but rather superficial. Mondrian colors: blue, white, red, yellow, black. It’s no coincidence that at some point there was a collaboration with Benetton. Interestingly, this enfant terrible has managed to gain high esteem in very conservative circles. Not only do current Parisian clerics wear him, but Pope John Paul II also had himself dressed by Castelbajac during a visit to France for the World Youth Day in 1997. The privileges of nobility, perhaps.
But Castelbajac was also a somehow genius fragrance back then. Certainly not exclusive - distributed by Mülhens 4711, it was relatively affordable even in average drugstores. Explicitly marketed as the scent of a (albeit not very well-known in Germany at the time) French fashion designer, with a dreamy portrait of the young Jean-Charles with flowing hair, the target audience was likely those who were enchanted by the glamour of Parisian haute couture but didn’t have the necessary funds for perfumes by Dior or Saint Laurent.
The fragrance is quite strong and spicy, yet somewhat softer than many other men’s scents of its generation; the rose geranium at its heart gives it an almost sweet quality, which beautifully balances the animal-leathery base with castoreum, musk, and plenty of moss. Patchouli here is not heavy but rather adds freshness. Overall, despite its strength, the fragrance feels bright and light. Launched in 1982, it appears very modern in retrospect for its time. Today, it would probably fall flat with the masses, but as a vintage scent, it can certainly score points because it stands for solid understatement and hints at what came later. The residue in my bottle is no longer enough to wear, but as a reminiscence of its era, I enjoy a whiff, lean back, and let myself be transported back to those old days, with a dreamy smile, with flowing hair…
But Castelbajac was also a somehow genius fragrance back then. Certainly not exclusive - distributed by Mülhens 4711, it was relatively affordable even in average drugstores. Explicitly marketed as the scent of a (albeit not very well-known in Germany at the time) French fashion designer, with a dreamy portrait of the young Jean-Charles with flowing hair, the target audience was likely those who were enchanted by the glamour of Parisian haute couture but didn’t have the necessary funds for perfumes by Dior or Saint Laurent.
The fragrance is quite strong and spicy, yet somewhat softer than many other men’s scents of its generation; the rose geranium at its heart gives it an almost sweet quality, which beautifully balances the animal-leathery base with castoreum, musk, and plenty of moss. Patchouli here is not heavy but rather adds freshness. Overall, despite its strength, the fragrance feels bright and light. Launched in 1982, it appears very modern in retrospect for its time. Today, it would probably fall flat with the masses, but as a vintage scent, it can certainly score points because it stands for solid understatement and hints at what came later. The residue in my bottle is no longer enough to wear, but as a reminiscence of its era, I enjoy a whiff, lean back, and let myself be transported back to those old days, with a dreamy smile, with flowing hair…
7 Comments
Stefan25376
Antidotte
CharlieFirpo
JoT
