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Top Review 28
En Voyage chez l'Artisan Parfumeur :15 - Premier Figieur vs Philosykos vs Fig - A comparison
Rarely have I longed so much for spring as recently, the pandemic reinforces the winter blues but very much and the damn ice age was quite intressant, but it consumes me after the freedom that means wearing a T-shirt. Few perfumes awaken that giggly light spring feeling in me as much as successful fig scents. Unfortunately, you almost never smell them on women. Last year I had compared Philosykos and Feige by Harry Lehmann, now thanks to JilMarie's walking letter I may add "Premier Figuier". Likewise, I will deal with the Extrême variant, published 9 years later.
Lehmann's Figuier is a good grab for thrifty people who still want quality.
Diptique's Philosykos is the oft-mentioned "fig star", but l'Artisan Parfumeur's candidate is also frequently mentioned.
Olivia Giacobetti is responsible not only for Philosykos but also here for Premier Figuier and the Extrême variant, as well as for quite a few other L'Artisan perfumes. Among them Tea for Two, one of the most terrific fragrances I've had the pleasure to smell so far. So the assumption is obvious that the lady can do something, but this one goes in the direction of Philosykos. Especially since Premier Figuier appeared two years before Philosykos.
All go in a similar direction.
While Figuier smells more like a basket of slightly unripe unopened figs combined with the gentle, milky hint of a cream made from dried figs and, not least, fresh broken stems of the fig tree, Philosykos chooses more of a fruity path. The figs are well ripe, peeled and pulled apart, sweet nectar oozing from the sunlit flesh.
Green notes come through here too, but not as woody as fig, crisper. Overall, Philosykos seems juicier and more fluid than fig. Undzwar really liquid, the fruitiness does not seem sticky at all.
Both trigger a gentle spring association, tickling rays of sunlight shining through a fig grove. In Philosykos it's a little breezier with fresh wind from the coast, in Fig it's calm, drier, warmly sandy.
Premier Figuier goes in the direction of fig, the focus is not necessarily on the fruit itself, but more on the whole plant. And of this we have a fairly young representative. The fragrance Starts crisp fresh, young buds, tender leaves and twigs crumple in the rough hands of the fig farmer. The top note just hints at fig. The green undergrowth subsides. Most natural smell of spring. Fig blends mildly into the background, light and airy. Fig unpeeled, not yet ripe hanging on the tree, the smell of fig skin, which is first accompanied by a hint of furry, hard apricot, then coconut water, subtle floral sounds also resonate. The coconut becomes a little too significant for my taste towards the end, but it's kept mild, neither sweet nor creamy. Overall, the smells here lighter, more lighthearted than its two aforementioned relatives.
The Extrême variant smells a little sharper and, especially at the beginning, much more synthetic than the original Premier Figieur. Something minty fresh pushes itself on me also. Likewise, coconut and apricot are on par with fig here, making it very arbitrary. Also resonates clearly more warmth. The fig seems very layered here and not put in the middle of the perfume, as I had actually hoped.
Who is looking for a "pure" fig fragrance can skip "Premier Figuier Extrême" in my opinion.
Comparing Lehrmann's "Fig", Diptyque's "Philosykos" And l'Artisan Parfumeur's "Premier Figuier", I do not think we are talking about significant differences, it's just nuances, the fragrances smell very similar, as all try to realize their theme as authentically natural as possible.
This succeeds Premier Figieur really well. This is more of a skin scent that doesn't have a strong sillage, but close up it develops a beautiful, green playful aura of feel-good summer. If you are looking for something equally playful but more fruity, I would reach for Philosykos. This is also rather from politely kept distance to perceive, Premier Figuier already weakens a little too much.
Lehmann's fig has not only the cheap price on its side, it seems drier and calmer, more adult.
What to choose, everyone must know for themselves. But please, dear ladies, wear more fig fragrances, ring in the spring for me. Gladly also here in Bochum.
Thank you for reading my comment.