01/26/2016

BrianBuchanan
363 Reviews

BrianBuchanan
Helpful Review
2
Rose-Water Amber
The first thing you notice is the metallic tang. tea trays and coffee pots shining in the warm light of brass lamps. Combined with a rosy accord (could there be damascones lighting up the profile here?) and notes that suggest Rahat Loukhoum - Turkish Delight, almond pastries and a juicy rosewater, you have the hospitalities of an Arab boudoir.
The other thing is the antique character of L'Eau d'Ambre Extrême, it smells old fashioned - and this feels like an homage to perfume of the early 20th century. It's an impressive achievement - to recreate the atmosphere of a pre-modern perfume using 21st century materials.
The name Amber Water captures the brilliance of the juice; its an Eau with the feel of a heavy Amber construction. And surely, a watery Amber is an oxymoron, a contradiction in terms. Ambers are not watery by nature, so why bother, why not do an amber pure and simple?
Isn't this just perfume pyrotechnics?
Well, it is technically adept, two genres fused into an Amber - Eau rose hybrid, so it's not a compromise on that score.
But when you strip away the clever conceits: the Arabian Nights atmosphere, the metallic trickery, the gourmand notes, the homage to pioneering perfumes, what's left? Does it stand as a perfume on its own terms? ... does it pass the Guy Robert test ' a perfume should above all smell good'?
Absolutely yes. It overcomes all my doubts. It's a rose water Amber that smells good, and has interesting subtleties that go beyond what could be expected from the average Amber.
The usual questions of longevity that hang over an Ellena juice can be overcome by spraying under - or on - clothing. This maintains the liquid beauty of the rose far longer than on skin, where it much sooner hurries down to the dusty floral conclusion. Development is a bit static but at heart it's an Amber - so no fault there.
Ultimately this is a solidly enjoyable outing which articulates a novel idea. At the same time it can be simply enjoyed at a surface level as a nice pong.
The other thing is the antique character of L'Eau d'Ambre Extrême, it smells old fashioned - and this feels like an homage to perfume of the early 20th century. It's an impressive achievement - to recreate the atmosphere of a pre-modern perfume using 21st century materials.
The name Amber Water captures the brilliance of the juice; its an Eau with the feel of a heavy Amber construction. And surely, a watery Amber is an oxymoron, a contradiction in terms. Ambers are not watery by nature, so why bother, why not do an amber pure and simple?
Isn't this just perfume pyrotechnics?
Well, it is technically adept, two genres fused into an Amber - Eau rose hybrid, so it's not a compromise on that score.
But when you strip away the clever conceits: the Arabian Nights atmosphere, the metallic trickery, the gourmand notes, the homage to pioneering perfumes, what's left? Does it stand as a perfume on its own terms? ... does it pass the Guy Robert test ' a perfume should above all smell good'?
Absolutely yes. It overcomes all my doubts. It's a rose water Amber that smells good, and has interesting subtleties that go beyond what could be expected from the average Amber.
The usual questions of longevity that hang over an Ellena juice can be overcome by spraying under - or on - clothing. This maintains the liquid beauty of the rose far longer than on skin, where it much sooner hurries down to the dusty floral conclusion. Development is a bit static but at heart it's an Amber - so no fault there.
Ultimately this is a solidly enjoyable outing which articulates a novel idea. At the same time it can be simply enjoyed at a surface level as a nice pong.



Top Notes
Mace
Cardamom
Nutmeg
Pepper
Heart Notes
Indonesian patchouli
Turkish rose
Base Notes
Benzoin
Tonka bean
Bourbon vanilla
Musk
Sandalwood








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