Tiaré
Galbanum
Musk
Indole07/23/2025
Sugandaraja
23 Reviews
Sugandaraja
1
Fluorescent Green
Heliodose rests on a fresh burst of galbanum, hedione, and a big twangy green note somewhere adjacent to muguet. I have yet to smell real tiare in my life, but to my nose, the floral accord is close to the smell of jasmine sambac: a bright, clean, sunny jasmine, perhaps with some tuberose adding a lactonic aspect. It never fully leaves green for floral, however, and I smell the snapping of twigs and shredding of leaves throughout.
The evolution is fairly flat (as is typical in most Marlous), with less galbanum and more musk and muguet with time, but the accord has some intriguing facets that hold my interest. There's a note in here I can only describe as “green watermelon rind” that amuses me, straddling the border between fruit candy and Greek salad.
I wouldn't exactly call Heliodose a smell one would find in nature, but more a distilled exaggeration of green one might find in a candy or liqueur. It stands apart from others in the line, blatantly vegetable to their animal, but it does remind me of few outside Marlou: the green abstraction of Frederic Malle's Synthetic Jungle; the chypric pear of Papillon's Hera; the acid muguet of Tauer's discontinued Carillon Pour Un Ange; the heady box tree blossoms of Parfums Delrae's discontinued Amoureuse (green florals don't have a great survival rate, do they…)
All in all, an excellent green fragrance in a decade where the genre is a rarity.
The evolution is fairly flat (as is typical in most Marlous), with less galbanum and more musk and muguet with time, but the accord has some intriguing facets that hold my interest. There's a note in here I can only describe as “green watermelon rind” that amuses me, straddling the border between fruit candy and Greek salad.
I wouldn't exactly call Heliodose a smell one would find in nature, but more a distilled exaggeration of green one might find in a candy or liqueur. It stands apart from others in the line, blatantly vegetable to their animal, but it does remind me of few outside Marlou: the green abstraction of Frederic Malle's Synthetic Jungle; the chypric pear of Papillon's Hera; the acid muguet of Tauer's discontinued Carillon Pour Un Ange; the heady box tree blossoms of Parfums Delrae's discontinued Amoureuse (green florals don't have a great survival rate, do they…)
All in all, an excellent green fragrance in a decade where the genre is a rarity.
JC6
TheDunkPapa
Misericorde
