Study #23 | newsletter Miller et Bertaux 2016

A coriander fizz, cola pop, crushed myrtle leaves, the opening of No. 23 Newsletter is the headline: "Incense for Artsy Tree Huggers." Why, that's me! Mmm, myrrh, lots of it, tacky and dark, bittersweet as the aldehydes settle, the crunch of fennel seeds, that burst, it smells vibrant yet cool. There is zero citrus here but a huge slug of tawny cedar brimming from under the effervescence.

Going from fizzy and crunchy to slightly smoldering and will-o'-the-wisp glow, it feels like a dusty, tiny abandoned church in the pines and I've lit some sandalwood incense from within, heeding to Smokey the Bear, safety first, and saluting to the majesty of the decay. Shards of stained glass remain, illuminated from the filtered light that enters, and I think to myself, there is no other place I want to be, but here, right now.

Bold but fresh,
dusky but summery,
smoky but herbal.

I met this wonder at the legendary Nose boutique in Paris. I had never encountered Miller et Bertaux fragrances before, but Study #23 took my breath away and insisted on coming with me.

I was very fascinated by incense scents at that moment and it is definitely one of the most remarkable specimens in this field. But I soon realized that to wear a bomb with such persistence, I should only go to outdoor events :)

The incense opens with fennel - what a powerful presence! Aldehydic freshness and immortelle honeyed herbalism take thoughts to a church with transparent walls in the middle of a meadow. A strong hippie vibe, tree huggers in colorful clothes and incense stuck in their hair dancing in this meadow.

But the woody base and patchouli tickle the nose and keep your feet on the ground.

This is not an easy scent, contradictory in its strength. I was planning to give up on him, but now that I'm writing this review, I've fallen in love with him again :) A strong artistic and bold stance.

Please take me with you again to this glass church in a meadow with flowers!

Some time ago, when I had a sample of Study 23, I liked the scent, but somehow I couldn't quite muster any enthusiasm.

Now we were on vacation at the Babassu perfumery in The Hague at the checkout because I wanted to pay for my second fragrance purchase of the day when my husband called me over with the words, "Wait a moment, please."

He stood in front of me with shining eyes, holding his wrist under my nose, asking, "Do you think this is as great as I do?"
I had no choice but to answer the question with a yes.

When I finally held the bottle in my hand, I thought, haven't I tested this one before?!

I was surprised by my assessment, as Study 23 actually has everything I like in a fragrance. Moreover, the scent somehow smelled better than on the day I tested it at home.

So we ended up buying two fragrances.

Now, onto the scent!

The main role here is clearly played by a rather bright and, in my opinion, slightly soapy incense note. The aldehydes listed in the pyramid make sense and are clearly present at the beginning. The fennel is only subtly detectable and contributes, if at all, a slightly bitter nuance that gives the whole thing a slight edge.

The top note lasts quite a while before the accompanying notes of the incense start to change.
I don't really perceive smoked wood and immortelle. However, the scent takes on a hard-to-define floral hue for me.
At first, I thought I was imagining it, but my colleague, who generally doesn't like incense, asked me about the fragrance and said she finds the floral note in it wonderful.

In the base, the wood notes then replace the wondrously floral note. Now the incense smells subtly woody and soft.

The longevity on my skin is good. The scent lasts through an entire workday. The sillage is pleasant, if I can trust my colleague's statement.

Sometimes it really makes sense to give a fragrance a second testing chance.