While I have tried to keep the tone neutral, the text contains detailed and explicit descriptions of body odours and related sensations, which may be inappropriate or unpleasant for some readers. If so, please let me know and I will rephrase the offensive parts in the more neutral text.
The smell of underwear, panties, briefs, trunks, or boxers doesn’t matter, for me it’s the male one, not dirty, stale, unwashed and uncured for, but worn clean in the morning after the shower and taken off in the evening at the end of work, before going to sleep, or jockstraps after a workout session. The fabric is soaked in male hormones, sweat, and body fluids, full of the humidity aggravated by pubic hair prone to sweating. Sadonaso is that smell. It’s exciting, pleasant or unpleasant depending on your tastes, attractive and repulsive, intriguing, tempting, mischievous, and causes sexual arousal. It all boils down to personal preference. It’s not a perfume for fetishists or maniacs, or worse, depraved people. More simply, it’s a perfume that, for a few moments, wants to reproduce the smell of a part of the human body, the most intimate one, something halfway between filthy and delightful. In any case, I think the way Gualtiero Marchesi designed it is brilliant! It is something akin to the sexual cycle, from excitement to resolution.
To my nose, Sadonaso opens with a bunch of artificial aldehydes mixed with alcohol, which sting the nostrils. The aldehydes are not those in hairspray, soapy, metallic, or airy and flowery, but something that resembles body odour, pungent and penetrating. At times, it is like a sulfurous raw cabbage smell. It’s not the undesirable smell of cooked cabbage, but that of freshly cut ones. I don’t find it fishy, or stinky, but the odour we smell and associate with things or thoughts is indeed very subjective. Does it resemble urine? Well, if urine smelled like this we would all be happier. I am a man, and I partly disagree with the similarities I read in other reviews. Maybe the limited edition with the phallic cap conditions the thought and the essence of the perfume itself. I recognize the intimacy with male body odour, the filthy muskiness, the harshness, which is a nice one, and it fits perfectly. Instead, I do not feel the urine part or cat pee. If it is there, it is not stale or skanky at all. Behind this mixture of moods lies a sumptuous, but for now still dormant, vanilla. The aldehydes disperse into the air and I smell the aroma of coffee, but nothing comparable to the coffee note of Montale’s perfumes. It is the aroma of homemade coffee with the moka, which is released into the air when the steam escapes from the moka and the bubbling indicates that the coffee is ready. In short, a sharp opening, rich in human moods and animalic accords. So far, the opening is filthy, sweaty, and plastic.
If you are brave enough to face the faecal oud nuances of
Oud Mood Elixir or the animalic and dirty ones of
Kouros Eau de Toilette, then you have nothing to fear with Sadonaso. As the unusual opening fades, a definitely musky and dirty accord comes in, which grows and grows. But at the same time green, with notes of mouldy tobacco leaves, wild as the beehive, and also feathery light musky rubber, a sort of milky latex. Since this brand never declares the olfactory pyramid, I assume that the urine-like smell is obtained through resins, presumably benzoin alcohol, and honey, but it is a salty honey. There is something that recalls the Tradition is the original Paper D’Armenie, scented with sweet vanilla and balsam notes reminiscent of the scents of the Orient. In the heart, the essence takes on a particular sweetness that will remain until the end, like a sort of infinite cuddle.
During the dry-down, the muskiness steps back, and a powderiness from coumarin and vanilla shines and grows. Again, I feel some honeyed nuances, as if wild honey and beehive crumbles were in the ingredients. The vanilla is impressive but everything but gourmand. I associate this aroma with the dark pods, thick and spicy, with a sweaty facet courtesy of the animal musk. The rest goes on very smooth, powdery, creamy, and fluffy.
This creature is anything but rotten, hefty, or naughty. Instead, it is smooth, powdery-green, with whispers of something bodily and musky. Of course, the muskiness in here comes across as sweaty and pissy, very close to human and body odour. It does not scream, but it stays close to the wearer’s skin. Longevity is above average. I think it is not an ordinary scent, with low versatility, so it needs special occasions. It suits the cold weather, fall, and winter seasons better. Polarizing, no doubt. Sweaty, dense, salty, and slightly spotty honey. I am sure that my review sounds weird, though the scent is exactly the opposite, gorgeous, and phenomenal. In the end, I love the concept, and the scent, either. Is it unique? Yes, of course. I've never smelt anything similar to this one.
I wrote this review without filters or prejudices, based on a bottle I have owned since January 2025.
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