Nudiflorum. A name that makes you think, and reflect. Something that recalls the naked body and flowers. Skin Flower. The smell of skin, of bodies, which are not ours but someone else’s, male or female it doesn’t matter, that reaches deep down, in the most intimate part, covered in fleshy and carnal flowers, petal upon petal, a bed, a blanket. I tried other Nasomatto creations before landing on Nudiflorum.
Black Afgano Extrait de Parfum was the pioneer, then an adventure with
Blamage Extrait de Parfum, then it was the turn of
Pardon Extrait de Parfum, followed by
Baraonda Extrait de Parfum, and now Nudiflorum. The idea, also this wrong, that it could be too floral has always discouraged me, but then I couldn’t resist.
Here we are. The first explosion is bittersweet molecular rhubarb, more bitter than sweet, with greenish and spicy accents. Then dark and mysterious flowers follow. It is aldehydic and indolic, a hybrid between jasmine and tuberose. It is camphoraceous, natural and hypnotic. If there were a scarce specimen of black jasmine, then it would have this deep, carnal, earthy, slightly metallic aroma. It is so unusual, a mix between the synthetic and the corporal, a smell that reminds one of warm and moist, clean skin, like during a sauna or a Turkish bath, with musky sweat that surfaces and fills all the hidden parts, and mixes with the moods of the room. In the opening, Nudiflorum is strongly bitterish, with a massive floral and fruity accord, and a pungent tone, the metallic and plastic aldehydes that remind of hairspray.
For a while, the perfume maintains this mood. Then something happens, as if the heat of the blood flowing in the veins sets this concoction on fire, causing a thick cloud of smoke. Now there is a smell of burnt rubber, on a base of resins and leather, a little balsamic, mentholated, dry and animalic. The synthetic molecular part has calmed down. I can’t figure out which note or chord is addictive. The more I smell it on my skin, the more I feel the need to smell it again and again. Hidden in the folds is a musky, dewy and soapy rose, which doesn’t smell like a rose, but tries at all costs to appear like a rose. It insinuates itself between the white petals, creating a whole with the scents of jasmine and tuberose. In this orgy of smells, an erotic galbanum is also added, green, intense, dense. Maybe it is intentional, but sometimes the perfume takes on a sweaty tone, as if there were a secret ingredient that makes it vicious and vulgar, or something else that I cannot say here, but never disgusting or unpleasant.
The dry-down becomes smoky, ashy, and leathery. Some nuances remind of Shurah and Solitaire, the same smoky, dusty, animalic, dry and leathery aroma. I can’t say if they are copies, clones or inspirations of each other. They have similar accords, and the same character, they are birds of a feather. It’s dirty, but in a good way, earthy and slightly woody. There is a kind of dustiness, it is not talcum, but more like chalk and dust. And a lot of musk, green and powerful musk. Perhaps, the muskiness comes from both musk and moss and, like other Nasomatto creations. It has a lot in common with body odour. And the wood is cedar, dry and pungent.
So, Nudiflorum is a non-linear perfume that goes through massive floral accords, then smoky and ashy and finally leathery and musky. The wet musk is a bed to lie on, the dry leather is the smell of bodies, the green galbanum represents the man, and the dusty buds suggest the woman. This is a breeding ground for wild, rough and primal relationships. All other accords, scents and moods are what remain after the peak. Of course, each of us has lived our own experiences, and my association may differ from yours. You don't have to be dirty, naughty, or perverted to appreciate it. I think Nudiflorum is very difficult to understand, and this would explain an average rating of around 8, but with a strong dominance of lower ratings. It is strange, peculiar, different from all floral genres, and anything that is not ordinary is scary. It is ideal for evening and night events, best during the autumn and winter months. Dose it with caution if you intend to wear it during the day indoors. Don’t worry about performance, it is a niche Nasomatto jewel that lasts a lifetime.
My rendition is based on a bottle I have had since December 2024.
-Elysium