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Notes10/06/2012
Apicius
220 Reviews
Apicius
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3
Patchoulissimo!
Dark soil, deep brown arable land – the region near the German town Magdeburg is famous for this heavy, oily and almost black soil. When it is ripped by the plough, big, fat lumps of it fall off.
What is more earthy than patchouli? Whoever takes a look around the Neil Morris website will notice that this perfumer seems to have a special fondness for it since he uses it so often. Although not explicitly mentioned in the fragrance notes of Dark Earth, I feel he uses it without reservation, not to say relentlessly.
I smell an oily distillation of patchouli, and this impression is underlined by the almost gooey consistency of that perfume (which eventually will jam the spray mechanism). But it is not a welcoming and warm version of patchouli, this earth note here is dark, sallow, wet and cold. What exactly was done to the patchouli to achieve this is not clear, but I regard the notes description “green notes, earth accord” as a paraphrase for it. Any warmer components – such as myrrhe and maybe musk - will take a few hours to uncloak and finally, give Dark Earth a more conciliatory twist.
I have to admit, I cannot stand Dark Earth for more than maybe 3 hours. It is so intense, and unfortunately I tend to get headaches from patchouli. If at all, I wear it outside buildings, then it is tolerable for me. Dark Earth sticks a little and might even withstand a hot shower. So, discretion is advisable when applying. For me, Dark Earth is close to the border of not being wearable, but I understand that patchouli lovers will have a different view about it.
According to his own statement, Neil Morris wanted to catch the moment between winter and spring, when nature is still asleep, but a very faint anticipation of spring is already in the air. I think, he succeeded very well.
What is more earthy than patchouli? Whoever takes a look around the Neil Morris website will notice that this perfumer seems to have a special fondness for it since he uses it so often. Although not explicitly mentioned in the fragrance notes of Dark Earth, I feel he uses it without reservation, not to say relentlessly.
I smell an oily distillation of patchouli, and this impression is underlined by the almost gooey consistency of that perfume (which eventually will jam the spray mechanism). But it is not a welcoming and warm version of patchouli, this earth note here is dark, sallow, wet and cold. What exactly was done to the patchouli to achieve this is not clear, but I regard the notes description “green notes, earth accord” as a paraphrase for it. Any warmer components – such as myrrhe and maybe musk - will take a few hours to uncloak and finally, give Dark Earth a more conciliatory twist.
I have to admit, I cannot stand Dark Earth for more than maybe 3 hours. It is so intense, and unfortunately I tend to get headaches from patchouli. If at all, I wear it outside buildings, then it is tolerable for me. Dark Earth sticks a little and might even withstand a hot shower. So, discretion is advisable when applying. For me, Dark Earth is close to the border of not being wearable, but I understand that patchouli lovers will have a different view about it.
According to his own statement, Neil Morris wanted to catch the moment between winter and spring, when nature is still asleep, but a very faint anticipation of spring is already in the air. I think, he succeeded very well.
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