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Thestral fragrance
The journey to Hogwarts, the boarding school in the north of Scotland where the story of the famous wizard student Harry Potter takes place, is mainly made by train, starting at platform 9 3/4 of London's King's Cross station. The last part of the journey, however, is made by boat across the lake and by - apparently - driverless carriages. It is only later, in his fifth year, that Harry realizes that these carriages do not drive all by themselves, but are pulled by black, emaciated creatures whose shape is borrowed from reptilian horses. These creatures are called thestrals, and they can only be seen by those who have witnessed the death of a human being.
So far, so bad. But thestrals are also creatures of darkness - frightening at first in their appearance, especially when you see them for the first time and then realize why - they are, after all, maimed, silent creatures of the night. Their gaunt bodies and large wings, reminiscent of bats, are as dull as silk and neither warm nor cool. Their demonic head resembles that of a dragon, their eyes pupil-less and seemingly empty. When tamed as a mount, however, it is said that a thestral can find any place its rider desires to go. And so Harry and his friends arrive at the Hall of Prophecies in the Ministry of Magic on thestrals when time is of the essence.
Lutens' Poivre Noir follows a very similar narrative - an initial moment of flinching and then only silence and darkness far beyond categories such as cold or warm - which already carries both - the biting sharpness and the darkness - in its name. The opening accord of crushed pepper is bright and pungent and almost disturbing - like the realization of the black winged horses and why we are now seeing them for the first time. But the duration of this opening is limited, and it fades into a hollow, strangely nameless echo - like dry hay that has lain in the shade for far too long, or old, yellowed and cracked paper (that's the immortelle!) - too cool to be warm, and too warm to seem cool.
Conclusion: Pepper fragrances are sometimes polarizing - as is this one, whose opening is sharp and biting and almost provocatively unpleasant. But beyond that, Poivre Noir is a dry fragrance full of pale darkness and silence - no comfort and no sweetness - just like the lean, black winged horses with the dragon's head that only those who have already seen death can recognize.
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