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Serge noire 2008

7.5 / 10 364 Ratings
A popular perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men, released in 2008. The scent is spicy-woody. The longevity is above-average. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Spicy
Woody
Smoky
Resinous
Oriental

Fragrance Notes

Charred woodCharred wood FrankincenseFrankincense

Perfumers

Ratings
Scent
7.5364 Ratings
Longevity
8.1269 Ratings
Sillage
7.3243 Ratings
Bottle
8.0227 Ratings
Value for money
6.741 Ratings
Submitted by DonVanVliet · last update on 12/12/2025.
Source-backed & verified
Interesting Facts
Apart from the name of the brand's founder, Serge also refers to a type of fabric that is created in a special weave called Twill.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Wanted by Diane Pernet
Wanted
Mutamayez by Swiss Arabian
Mutamayez
Versilia Vintage - Ambra Mediterranea by Profumi del Forte
Versilia Vintage - Ambra Mediterranea
Sandalo (Eau de Toilette) by Etro
Sandalo Eau de Toilette
Fou d'Absinthe by L'Artisan Parfumeur
Fou d'Absinthe
Fille en aiguilles by Serge Lutens
Fille en aiguilles

Reviews

39 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Oriane

140 Reviews
Oriane
Oriane
3  
Neuter Skin Scent
The listed notes for this fragrance are not in a traditional pyramidal structure. The listed notes are Patchouli, Cinnamon, Amber, Woodsy Notes, Incense, Clove, Spices, and Ebony Wood.

I was gifted a sample of Serge Noire, and I like it. I am surprised there are not more positive reviews of it. This is definitely a warm and spicy scent. I smell cumin, cloves, and incense mostly. There are other spices--I cannot delineate cinnamon from the lot-- but I do not have a highly tutored sense of smell, either. It is not sweet smelling to me. It has very little projection. It is a skin scent on me. Longevity is not very good. I expect it would wear longer on clothing than on skin. I find it enjoyable for myself to wear on the right day/night, but I do not imagine wearing it for others, and I would not say that it is sexy in any way. It is not especially feminine in the way some orientals such as Samsara are "feminine." It is definitely unisex, or more precisely non-sex. I would label it "neuter."

Fragrance: 5/10

Projection: 3/10

Sillage: 3/10

Longevity: 3/10
0 Comments
ClaireV

969 Reviews
ClaireV
ClaireV
2  
French onion sweat
The topnotes of Serge Lutens Serge Noire - smoky, dried fruit incense - draw me in every single Goddamn time, like a mermaid's song. And then I am dashed cruelly against the rocks that are this scent's downfall - the unmistakably oniony sweat of unwashed (male) armpits.

Ask me how I know. No, really. I first smelled this when I was visiting Mont San Michel with my family when I was seven. The children had sat down in a grumpy, sun-beaten heap on the doorstop of the nth church, refusing to indulge our parents any further in their unquenchable thirst for the various religious icons and tchotchkes of French medieval churches, which seemed to us to be identical to the ones we had back home, only a little older and grimier.

From our vantage point, we got to study the interiors of everyone's nostrils, skirts, and armpits. People passed over us; we were ignored, perhaps not even seen. A middle-aged man stopped under the mantel and leaned against the cool wall for a moment to gather himself, and in that moment, I understood that dried sweat could smell like onions and black pepper and celery - the makings of a mirepoix, practically - when suspended in droplets in the thicket of a man's armpit hair.

The onion sweat accord can be parsed out later as clove, cumin, black pepper, and incense. While I love clove in stuff like Eau Lente (Diptyque) and the Eau de Parfum by Commes des Garcons, I admit that it can come off as sweaty and metallic to an almost objectionable degree. But the operational word is almost. There's always something in those fragrances to reign it in – herbaceous oppoponax, a bit of honey, some sandalwood. In Serge Noire, the clove business simply goes too far. It sidles up to the breaking point of human endurance and then waltzes brazenly past it, lurching unchecked into pure onion sweat territory whence it cannot be redeemed.

I keep trying it, hoping I am wrong or that my perception will loosen up, allowing me to glimpse the true beauty of this scent as others describe it. But as of May 2020, and upon my 14th attempt, I have to admit defeat
0 Comments
CuirCuir

35 Reviews
CuirCuir
CuirCuir
2  
Incense + cloves = perfect
It is absolutely brilliant, master perfumer at work. Spicy smoke, very masculine. Cloves and incense are dominant. Not a huge fan of cloves but here it's perfectly blended in, not in a bothersome way. Give it a go to find out what's been missing in your life:))
1 Comment
valhelsingv

278 Reviews
valhelsingv
valhelsingv
0  
Spiced incense, I wish for more clove and less cumin
I don't think this fragrance is particularly challenging, even among SL scents (La dompteuse encagee is my nemesis :D). It's simply an incense scent with particularly dry woods and spices. I can smell a little bit of cloves and quite a bit of cumin. The other way around would've been much better. I find it rather mild, at least in comparison to other spiced incense scents I know, such as Sorcinelli's Quando Rapita... Serge Noire is not a scent I would see myself reaching for, but I'm glad I tried it.
0 Comments
Pepdal

238 Reviews
Pepdal
Pepdal
0  
Spice Lovers
Lovers of spice, particularly clove should probably put this on their list to sample. There is always something interesting to try from this house, and this one is no exception. Thank you for watching.
0 Comments
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Statements

61 short views on the fragrance
2 years ago
2
Peppery wood. Spicy. Smokey.
A nutmeg note reminds me of coca-cola.
0 Comments
2 years ago
2
One of a kind fragrance. Supposedly , this is Mr Lutens’s signature scent and we can see why. Incense with a touch of cinnamon and cloves.
0 Comments
1
ABSOLUTE DISASTER. Opens woody-spicy, vintage feel. But up-close, it smells a bit like a sweaty shirt in a dusty attic (feel of cumin).
0 Comments
1
Most challenging Serge fragrance. Dark, spicy, bitter and ashy. It can wear you if you are not ready for it. Original but odd.
0 Comments
26 days ago
a spicy incense that doesn’t feel particularly unique but executed very well. leans the slightest bit savory
0 Comments
2 months ago
I don't want to sound rude or disrespectful, but in a moment of the performance, it reminded me of the smell of used men's underwear...
0 Comments
48
52
1972. The room is filled with incense. Batik fabrics envelop.
Patchouli devotees. Tantric caress.
New! Hallogallo.
Smell it all over your body.*
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52 Comments
45
40
Clove fire breathes through the nostrils of the black horse
wrapped in wings of cinnamon and smoke
Benzoin soft and warming
Your heartbeat against my back
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40 Comments
36
32
Fog drops
Woven
Frozen
Dark amber
Glowing resin
Clove smoke weaving
Cinnamon dust floating
In the sky of black wood
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32 Comments
33
50
There's more to it than incense and wood. I suspect there's some cumin and resins, as the scent develops a certain sweetness over time...
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50 Comments
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