NO±Suede UerMi 2013

No +/- Suede is basically a safraleine absolute, rubbery, slightly mineral, carrying the glossy smell of new leather-look (not real leather) shoes, with a delicate sweeter balsamic-fruity side. On the very base, besides a silky ambery note, a clumsy blend of industrial smells halfway chemical, dusty, smoky, sweet/sugary and dry (I think there's some evernyl which imitates dry woody-mossy notes). Linear, clean, dry-to-the-bone, almost a non-scent given the delicate minimalism (which in 2014 smells kind of "... again?"). Basically it smells like the drydown of many contemporary leather/suede scents (imagine Puredistance M or Roja Dove Fetish pour Homme after 4-5 hours). As a fragrance itself it smells completely dull to me, but if I am not wrong, this line is supposed to be used as a range of "bases" to be combined one with another, hence the "plain" personality of the scent. Not judging their marketing choices and the "concept" but I guess Perfumer's Apprentice or similar webshops already offer a decent range of "plain smells" to combine, at a fraction of this price... well however, to me, alone or combined, still a useless scent with a crazy price. Another proof of Antoine Lie's main talent.

4/10

First of all, I would like to point out that ANTOINE LIE, the nose not only behind this UèrMì creation, is also responsible for "Rien" and other fragrances from the EldO brand.

Now here is the first comment on the UèrMì travel package:

Curiously, I spray the first spritzes and immediately perceive a soft, artificial industrial faux suede scent. Whether I would have smelled this velour note if I hadn't known what it was supposed to smell like remains to be seen, as I also let two friends sniff it who did not recognize it. Not even after I told them what it was supposed to be. ???

A scratchy sweetness rises to my nose, which also contains a hint of plastic among old, leather-like components. The so-called "plononic" (definition see two comments below me) scent accords crystallize more and more over the course of the first half hour, highlighting the personality of the fragrance, which evokes a familiar acceptance through past memories. It seems to me that this perfume is a fusion of synthetics and various natural scents. It retreats very quickly on my skin and becomes intimate, which I find pleasant because it does not seem to want or need to make big waves. I cannot define the floral aspect, but it is present.

After about an hour, the broad side of the "distant aunt scent" is over, and the fragrance develops sweeter and sweeter. I confess that I am surprised by the turn towards a comparatively more emerging naturalness that it seems to display now. It undergoes a strange development on me, as if the scent is shedding more and more, gradually dropping one component after another, although I cannot describe the individual, disappearing scent building blocks. The velour aspect not only completely recedes into the background, but the fragrance sheds it entirely.

This scent unfolds at a snail's pace and gradually loses its additions, like leaves falling from a tree in autumn. Its adornments, if you will. A little bit of spice actually flashes up in between, but towards the end (after about six hours), the scent stands quite naked and exposed. (Don't think of the aunt! Just think of the fragrance!) And surprisingly, I only smell one thing: a small, sweet, innocent little vanilla. Cute in a way. And after another two hours, it seems to have disappeared back into the cycle of life. As if it had never been there.

For me, a strange perfume! If it was created as a scent experience, it is personally not strong or velvety enough for me. As an everyday fragrance, I find this interpretation of suede very smooth and successful, provided the first half hour is perceived as pleasant, and I can well imagine that it could find lovers.

I thank Franfran20 for the opportunity to test these fragrances!

Suede or also known as nubuck leather is often used in the shoe and clothing industry and is, according to Wikipedia, a cheaper raw material than, for example, nubuck leather, as raw leather with surface defects can also be used. It is softened, tanned, sanded, and dyed until it meets consumer demands.
Hmm... ok. I have never really dealt much with fabrics or leathers - healthy half-knowledge has been enough for me so far, especially since I mostly wear cotton clothing. So I learned something during the UerMi tests :-D

NO±Suede is, at first sniff, a sweet, floral scent with a soft leather note. It has good projection, lasts well (6 hours), and has little scent development. A slightly piercing note that stings the nose right after spraying disappears in less than 5 minutes, and the scent becomes a bit softer over the course of the first hour. Apart from that, the only development is the slow fading of the scent.
The only real flaw of the fragrance in my perception is this strange note when you get your nose close to the sprayed skin: rubbery, piercing, and... shoe polish? Not the beeswax-based kind, which actually doesn't smell unpleasant, but the military version... somehow artificial-chemical. It really reminds me of new shoes with rubber soles - so the theme is hit :-)

I find it wearable, suitable for daytime, even though I wouldn't need to have it.