
Apicius
513 Reviews

Apicius
1
No Success Despite Nobility Title
The grandeur is over, and the website is down: All what is left by Von Sierstorpff's The Scent of a Gentleman is a spot in Parfumo's ancestral portrait gallery of discontinued perfumes. Wrong place and time?
This gent's fragrance is a chypre in its broadest sense. It starts with a typically citric head note – very sour and intense, about the kind of citrus we know from Chanel's chypre Pour Monsieur. After one has gone through this, a woody and spicy heart comes into view. I am not too enthusiastic about it since it contains a bitter, liquorice kind of spiciness which reminds me of the goo that you get when you extinct charcoal with water. Sometimes, this note can be found in perfumes: Houbigant's Duc de Vervins and Acqua di Genova's Superba Rovo Nero are gruesome examples of what such an accord can do to perfumes. Von Sierstorpff has some pity with us, and so this unpleasant accord is used with some discreetness. It doesn't repel me strongly, but it is still distinct enough to put some space between me and the person wearing Von Sierstorpff. At least, a few amiable floral notes stand up against it.
One does not have to wait long for a chypre style base note to enfold. It is very discreet, herbal and woody, and with some musk providing volume. The typical chypre ingredients may be missing, at least in the known fragrance notes, but all I can say is that this perfume resembles a lot the chypre concept. The base notes are the most beautiful part of the fragrance's development, especially as the unwieldy spiciness integrates well by that time.
One can enjoy that for a while, but after a few hours, the discreet chypre notes fade away, and again, the dark and bitter notes return.
What can I say – Von Sierstorpff is a difficult fragrance, surely something for individualists. Not easy to cope with IMHO is the steady change of loudness from the intense citruses to the quite discreet chypre base. This requires a general understanding which accepts such a drydown as exemplary, and not, as I tend to do, a shortcoming. In a certain way Von Sierstorpff may be in bond with the concept of gent's colognes from days long ago, before Eau de Toilette strength became standard for men's perfumes.
Nobody should refrain from testing Von Sierstorpff as long as it may be found. My judgement is determined rather by a personal dislike of some notes. The quality is good, and from an artist's point of view an interesting variant of chypre was accomplished. But what is a “von” worth today if the plebs cannot appreciate it? Instead of perfumes, noblity titles sell much better with cheap champagne!
This gent's fragrance is a chypre in its broadest sense. It starts with a typically citric head note – very sour and intense, about the kind of citrus we know from Chanel's chypre Pour Monsieur. After one has gone through this, a woody and spicy heart comes into view. I am not too enthusiastic about it since it contains a bitter, liquorice kind of spiciness which reminds me of the goo that you get when you extinct charcoal with water. Sometimes, this note can be found in perfumes: Houbigant's Duc de Vervins and Acqua di Genova's Superba Rovo Nero are gruesome examples of what such an accord can do to perfumes. Von Sierstorpff has some pity with us, and so this unpleasant accord is used with some discreetness. It doesn't repel me strongly, but it is still distinct enough to put some space between me and the person wearing Von Sierstorpff. At least, a few amiable floral notes stand up against it.
One does not have to wait long for a chypre style base note to enfold. It is very discreet, herbal and woody, and with some musk providing volume. The typical chypre ingredients may be missing, at least in the known fragrance notes, but all I can say is that this perfume resembles a lot the chypre concept. The base notes are the most beautiful part of the fragrance's development, especially as the unwieldy spiciness integrates well by that time.
One can enjoy that for a while, but after a few hours, the discreet chypre notes fade away, and again, the dark and bitter notes return.
What can I say – Von Sierstorpff is a difficult fragrance, surely something for individualists. Not easy to cope with IMHO is the steady change of loudness from the intense citruses to the quite discreet chypre base. This requires a general understanding which accepts such a drydown as exemplary, and not, as I tend to do, a shortcoming. In a certain way Von Sierstorpff may be in bond with the concept of gent's colognes from days long ago, before Eau de Toilette strength became standard for men's perfumes.
Nobody should refrain from testing Von Sierstorpff as long as it may be found. My judgement is determined rather by a personal dislike of some notes. The quality is good, and from an artist's point of view an interesting variant of chypre was accomplished. But what is a “von” worth today if the plebs cannot appreciate it? Instead of perfumes, noblity titles sell much better with cheap champagne!