Théros

Θέρος

YS Uzac 2017

Immediately sandy, chocolatey, marine… and boozy!!! I’m getting a huge booze accord in the opening, or perhaps it’s just something that can be cobbled together by the swath of dynamic facets moving below... Because somehow, simultaneously, all of the intended accords are perceptible. Burning stone and air, skin kissed by ocean and orris, an incredible green freshness and chocolatiness from Kyara, aided by patchouli… Absolutely stunning. Unbelievably smooth.

Not sure when this is best worn, as it seems such a treat to the nose that the best thing to do while wearing it is to simply lose oneself in the imagery and story it provides, something akin to an opium-like daze… at least that’s what I find myself doing right now. I want for nothing else. Food? Water? Who needs ‘em. I’ve got Theros.

Sillage moderate though best enjoyed a mere few centimeters away, eyes closed, slow inhales, forceful exhales. Woowee. Longevity excellent. Much more could be said. Maybe another time.

Bravo, good sir!!!

Theros, from the house of Ys-Uzac. A house that will keep you entertained. Avant-garde, unusual, unique compositions tailored to be worn and feel highly sophisticated. This perfume meets all those criteria and more.

Theros has to be one of the most peculiar perfumes I ever experienced. There is nothing remotely similar to it. You read the accords listed by the house and think to yourself: "Sounds like something that'd be fun to try." However, you try it and realize that although it makes no sense on paper, the result is brilliant. Shortly, this is an Ambergris-centered perfume that uses a woody base for support, yet the former feels to be the center player. In detail, the perfume presents a plethora of textures and aromas that play in contradiction without feeling "out of tune." The opening brings a "toasted," "sun-baked" feel that heats the sand and chocolate accord. This solar-warmed quality never fades away. It lingers throughout, staying true to the perfumer's inspiration. It is difficult to describe this sensation. But it does come across as sun-heated sand or pebbles/rocks. To make it easier, I'd say it has a slightly savory quality (perhaps for being paired with the chocolate accord) that makes me picture freshly cooked rice. But it's a stretch to put it that way, although it might be easier for many to imagine. The chocolate accord is present, yet the perfume never feels gourmand, savory, or childish. Rather sophisticated, with a touch of dessert that fits in perfectly. Of course, the Oceanic feel and the salty, mineral nuances are present, going in tandem with the earthy accords and opposition with the chocolate one. I believe the "lipstick" accord is what I perceive as a waxy texture, which most certainly is lent by the ambergris. The Oud is an important player but never feels the major component. It is rather dry, warm, and earthy. The ambergris takes control slowly over the whole rendering that waxy, slightly salty/mineral, oceanic, earthy, and sexual touch. Undoubtedly, there is a sexy muskiness here that growls louder as the perfume consumes and might help create the listed "sweaty skin accord." All the mentioned facets are presented in a manner that is difficult to break apart. The perfume is exceptionally well blended with incredibly smooth transitions. The perfumer takes inspiration from the vision of being on an island with your loved one. A "Passionate Summer". That vision is captured accurately. And yet, I feel there is a lot of mystery and darkness to the construction. And while I believe it works great in the Summer heat, I'd opt for the most sophisticated events with a suit and tie.

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The opening is so repulsive, I imagine the stench of imminent decay, like that of a civet cat.
After about 5-10 minutes, the disgusting smell transforms into a nutty, sweet, aged chocolate loincloth.
After another 5-10 minutes - finally!! there it is again - a scent that captivates you like a fanfare performed by sirens, enjoy the embrace of Botticelli's Venus. Simply heavenly!

Teodor Currentzis' second work of the cycle, translated as Summer, was presented at the Diaghilev Festival in Perm, just like the first creation, Air 16 (Spring). Here, Maestro Currentzis conducted his ensemble musicAeterna. During the concert, the current fragrance is sprayed into the audience. Whether the works thematically matched the fragrance and its name is not documented.

Teodor did not create these fragrances (Air 16 and Théros) alone, but in collaboration with the mastermind behind the brand Ys Uzac, Vincent Micotti. He draws his origins and a core of his creativity from, among other things, "bespoke Perfumes." The fact that two such powerful and creative artists create fragrances together is the big bang for the series surrounding the seasons.

Théros, the summer, comes in a beautiful and likely unique dark glass bottle, on the front of which, through alchemical processes, as Ys Uzac writes, a silver logo has been applied. The bottle is indeed adorned only with this logo. Upon closer inspection, one can recognize a "c" and a curved line. The cap is so massive that I had to be careful not to drop it when opening, as one easily underestimates its weight. The packaging itself features references to the Diaghilev Festival in Perm as well as the signature of Teodor Currentzis. Here we see the stylized "c" from the bottle again. The Egyptian-like glyph tablet displayed on the front of the packaging turns out to be a mix of Greek and the Maestro's signature. With a bit of imagination, one can read both Théros and T. C. (for Teodor Currentzis). This glyph tablet is rendered in gold and bears traces of smudged sand.

Now, onto the fragrance itself. Théros is an Extrait de Parfum, which impressively reveals itself upon the first spray. Almost oily and amber-colored, the drop flows onto the skin. It seems to have too much density to truly be atomized.

Théros builds around the theme of sensuality and summer. The fragrance indeed starts with the impression of hot stones and sand, ozonic air, and very quickly, after about 5 minutes and a bit of skin warmth, it dramatically finds its mood. Shortly thereafter, a warm skin accord joins in, transitioning from sun-kissed, sensual, tender to caressing. Warm. Captivating. Thoughts embark on a journey.

Everything maintains a lightness and intimacy, without ever wanting to equate sensuality with greed or even sex in any way. Sun-kissed skin.

With closed eyes, one envisions being in beautiful company on a beach. In the dunes. The wind blows through the hair. The sand runs warm and fine through the fingers. The other hand holds that of the person next to you. Your nose against their neck.

Accents of lip gloss, unscented, resonate subtly and give everything an aspect of playful youthfulness. The taste of a first kiss. Perhaps on this day. Or the last in life. It doesn't matter.

The contained oud brings the most sensual and warmest form of the noble oil that I have ever experienced. Kyara Oud. Minimal smoky aspects meet balsamic embers. Here too, the name "Théros" hits the mark again. It also means heat in Greek. In the smoke, I repeatedly recognize slightly nutty aspects, like the scent of roasted pine nuts. Everything is so minimal that one might just barely sense it.

Théros comes entirely without a pyramid and presents itself as a fragrance that captured a moment to hold it forever. This day at the sea. In the summer of love.